Sweetfish89

I installed an A6 cam with y7/y8 cam gear in by hatch. It is running pretty good but I did notice a little bogging at low rpms. Also my belt seems very loose. I know it is 1/2 tooth off but it looks like there is more slack in the belt on the left side of the cam (front of the car) and less on the right side (rear of the car). Any suggestions would be great. Thank you

Sweetfish89

Anyone?

1990edsedan

Why did you change the cam gear, did you swap the head? A6 and B1/2 use the same cam gear iirc..

Sweetfish89

I am using the 1.5L belt, A6 cam, and B1 head.

codybuRr

well, the timing belt should always be looser on the front side of the car than the back side. but as far as it being a 1/2 tooth off, it shouldnt be.

Sweetfish89

It is very loose you can hear the belt slapping back and forth

codybuRr

that is very bad lol. the belt is too long.
its got to be at least to have that much play.

OneBadTurboCRV

You have that completely backwards... The exhaust side should be tighter than the intake side as they are reverse rotation engines...

OP - if you have a D15 long block you should be using the same cam gear. You only switch cam gears for when you do "mini-me" swaps...

Sweetfish89

I will throw my old cam gear back on and see what it does. I have a Z6 head for my mini me swap. The A6 wont fit in the Z6 because of the VTEC?

OneBadTurboCRV

It will not work - they are completely different heads...

Sweetfish89

That is what I thought. Thank you will post back with update

1990edsedan

Dude read the Op posts. They only swapped the cam. No need to swap the cam gear.

OneBadTurboCRV

You should read what you posted... It's a bunch of babbling from people who are clueless... only a couple say anything that makes sense. Also - it further proves my point as I said before... you can easily run it half a tooth off with out any problems. Some of this can be compensated for with ignition timing... Build a few motors maybe you will have a better understanding.

4drEF

Hm... I don't think ignition timing will correct for 1/2 tooth off.
Sure, it can help when the spark plug fires, but it can't control when the valves open or close.
I think you would want it the 1/2 tooth off to be advanced making the intake valves open just a tad too early and exhaust valves close a tad too early.

OneBadTurboCRV

Now don't go getting things mixed up... I didn't say anything about correcting it; I said it will help COMPENSATE... two completely different words. As implied by "jlk16188"s "proof" (which backfired), you can potentially benefit from half a tooth off by moving the powerband around. We aren't building an engine with tolerances so close you couldn't fit his in between them... He is talking about slapping an A6 camshaft in a beater B2... This won't matter unless you live somewhere that checks for exact timing anyways...

Oh well, let's be exact and do it right, just like vinyl wrapping a car instead of a paint job, am I right "jlk16188"?

4drEF

Usually only do this stuff on Friday, but oh well.

1990edsedan

14210-PM3-000 - same part number for cam gear for D16A6 and D15B1 and D15B2

D15B1 and D16A6 use same PM3 head.

The OP just needs to use the right cam gear and right belt and tension the sucker properly.

Period.

1990edsedan

Gee, no *****? Of course they are different! Did I say they were the same? Of course not. I said the CAM GEAR is the same, and it has timing marks for both cams.

The y7/y8 cam gear is different for obvious reasons.

Yes I do read - I'm wondering if you do?

DCRB

this is not entirely true. yes you swap the cam gear to use a vtec head on a d15 block. but to use a SOHC zc or d16a6 cam on a d15 non vtec you also have to use a y7/y8 or adjustable cam gear. i don't have a picture of it but i have lined up my stock b2 cam next to my zc cam using the dizzy teeth to line them up evenly together and the lobes on the zc cam are offset by that half tooth. i have a zc cam in my d15b2 in my sedan right now, and my old d15b1 that was in my hatch i ran a d16a6 cam. both work/worked flawlessly.

o/p loosen your tensioner, line the crank pully mark and the cam gear marks up how you should and reset your belt. then rotate the engine cc till the belt is tight then tighten the tensioner down.

OneBadTurboCRV

I understand that fully... I am saying it doesn't HAVE to be done (refer to later post)...

1990edsedan

it's not totally necessary, but yes. Also one can run the d15 belt on the d16 in a pinch as the belt itself is only 1 tooth different.

glenniz

The 88 A6 cam is indexed similar to th USDM D15B1/2/7 engines. The 89-91 A6 cam will either need a Y7 or an AEM adjustable cam gear to compensate for the 1/2 tooth difference.
Here is a link that should answer all of your questions.

http://www.d-series.org/forums/engin...-cam-post.html

BTW: The reason I suggest the AEM cam gear is because nearly all other manufacturers have their D15B/1/2/7 and D16Y7 cam gears improperly marked and indexed. At least this is true for the Bisi and Skunk2 gears.