AMseven

My '89 crx is throwing this code. Is it possible my intake air temp sensor has gone bad due to running straight down pipe? I have only started the car and filled it with fluids and noticed it was throwin IAT code.

jlicrx

is the ECU blinking 10 times or just one between pauses? - IAT would be 10 blinks and 1 blink would be O2 sensor

dephtone

IAT sensor is right on intake runner #1, it's a white sensor on a B series. On a d series it's on the back of the intake mani on the driver side.

Are you running open downpipe as in turbo or open header? Open downpipe if you have the o2 sensor to close it will burn out unless you put a spacer on the bung because the exhaust is so hot coming out of the exhaust housing.

Chiggah

from what i understand....

1 long blink = double digits = 10 ( 1 second )
quick flash = single digits = 1 ( 1/2 second )

Tru_Shine

I am haveing the same problem kinda, my ECU is Blinking (1) long blink and (14) quick blinks.......I have never seen this before or ever heard of it. and there is'nt a code 24 so i was thinking it is a code 10 and 14 which is a intake air temp sensor (code 10) and (code 14) Idle air control valve? what could be going wrong?


BTW its a 90 crx hf

Katman

sounds like CEL 10 & 14.

Did this just happen outta the blue? or did you just finish doing a swap? if you did a swap, you might have crossed the IAT & IACV plugs as they have the same style round 2 wire plug.

I would remove your IAT sensor and inspect the tip, make sure it didn't burn out, as this can happen sometimes when plugs are crossed with the IAT sensor.

If your car has an EVAP plug, this may easily be crossed too with the IAT sensor.

dephtone

Back from the dead lol.

tonythetuner®

Diggin up graves lol

kmfpod

Sorry to butt in Hey KATMAN, are you still doing the technet thing? (no replies on the email link?)
On the subject of error codes, I'm finishing off a swap with a D15B 3 stage vtec and all the wiring issues that go with it. I have a trouble code 38 and got stumped for info on it. I got a hint it's something to do with the two vtec solenoid valves.
But, I have a specific question - what goes on with the IAC valve to trigger a trouble code? I had a fiddle with the idle screw when I was first firing her up with my old ecu just to keep it running without using the gas pedal. I now have the correct ecu in there and have a number of trouble codes 12; 14; 20; and the mysterious 38!
I'm going to plate off the EGR valve because it seems more trouble that it's worth! (code 12)
That might also fix the load detector fault (20) because that only came on when I wired in the EGR valve?

Any views on the EGR solution would be awesome! Equally awsome would be some advice on how to rectify the IAC valve fault too.
Thanks if anyone does help.