mackymcg

I wrote a little rough guide on converting the 88-91 civic to use a hydraulic transmission. I've been emailing it to people but I think I should post it now and ask if anyone sees any problems with it. Below the guide are some images I took of my tranny mount, it is a modified HCP mount, and I used HCP for the rest of the mounts. Enjoy.

Installing a B-series hydraulic transmission into a 88-91 Honda Civic/CRX

Author: Thomas McGovern
tom@tommcgphoto.com
mackymcg@hotmail.com
on honda-tech.com - mackymcg

I'm writing this because I am tired of many people on the internet saying a hydraulic transmission can't work in an ED/EF chassis or that it won't even fit. It fits, it can be done(with a little work), and I did it.

Issues, Precautions, Warnings, Etc.


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|IF YOU SCREW UP, IT IS YOUR OWN FAULT, NOT ME OR THE GUIDE, DO THIS ONLY IF YOU STAND THE TIME IT TAKES TO COMPLETE|
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- The first part of this guide should be done engine out, because the drilling of the hole through the firewall is at an angle where you want to be standing in the engine bay to enlarge it, plus the area where the hole has to be drilled is reinforced, so you have to be there for a while.

- This was done with all new parts from Honda/Acura, so I don't know what junkyard parts you get. All clutch items were from 1994+ Integra

- The engine mounts I used were HCP, because you have to weld on one of the mounts, I'll recommend HCP over Hasport, steel versus aluminium, unless you like welding onto aluminium

- Take the dash out and keep it out until you are positive the transmission works. Test drive the car with no dash I mean, this will probably the most technical part of the swap and you do not want to rip everything else out because you have a defective clutch pedal (even buying brand new I got two defective pedals in a row)

First, my car was a 1991 Civic HB STD and I installed a 2001 B18C5w/ITR tranny, I used 2001 ITR Axles, installed a ITR radiator, ITR fuse boxes, etc. I converted the entire car to OBDII so I don't know what ECU or distributor you can use, what wires need to be hooked together, what radiator hoses, but the good people at https://honda-tech.com can help you if you need assistance with those things.

My parts list:
-Clutch reservoir,
-Clutch pedal assm incl. cylinder( from 94+ Integra)
-CLutch lines, 2 different sizes
-step down for the clutch line (see https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=161021 in fuse box pic on top for this)
-Custom passenger side tranny mount (I modified a HCP mount for a cable tranny, involved cutting the 2 bosses of the underside of the mount [they are already on the transmission] and welding on a new piece of metal to reach the third mounting bolt position)

Chassis work :
I don't know why some people say that the tranny won't fit in the engine bay, I had no trouble getting it in.

- I first removed the dash and took out the entire pedal assm.(On 91 civic, gas/brake and clutch are all one piece)
- Cut the clutch pedal off the assm and remove the cable from the car
- FIgured out to mount new clutch assm. to top of firewall, drill holes, test fit pedal for ergonomics(without cylinder on, it gets in the way for now), remember later on to bolt top of bolts(at opening for wiper assm.), or pedal will flex alot.
- This next step could have gone two ways
1. My way, removed venting for driver's side vent, this is one compromise I had to live with. Drilled hole through firewall and reinforcing on firewall so the end of the cylinder would be in the engine bay, and the clutch reservior would be in the engine bay as well, also drilling a hole through the lip on the firewall in the engine bay so the line going to the reservior would not be stressed by the position that the cylinder was coming out of the firewall.
2. Almost the same as above, but move clutch pedal forward a little and don't drill through firewall, keep reservoir under-dash, and only run clutch line through firewall. A little easier (drilling through the firewall took forever) but I don't like the idea of not being able to see the reservior, so the #1 option was for me.
- Using a pipe bender, route the line first to the step down ( should be behind the intake manifold mounted to the firewall) then to the transmission
- Fill the system, check for leaks(especially in the cylinder on the clutch pedal, it will leak onto the driver's carpet), bleed air out of the system, refill to proper level in reservoir, double-check all the pipe fittings, and fill the hole if you made one with silicon or something to keep the road noise out.
- I tested mine in my driveway by attempting to start up in every gear ( I know this wears the clutch a little, but better than finding yourself stuck in gear or with no gears at all) and then recheck the fluids.

I believe that's it, if there is anything else, feel free to email
Tom McGovern

Modified HCP mount -





I had some more but the disk drive ate them. I wonder how long before I see that mount for sale from some shop.

bryant

Great info. I'm saving it now, for future use. Put a patent on that and have a company make it. Then sell it and make lots of money. Dont let others get rich off your ideas.

chhuong

But what i think would be better is if there was a kit that would turn a hydro tranny into a cable operated one!!!

meept

Hmm, kit that makes a hydro tranny cable-actuated..... does anyone know the diameter of the piston in a hydro tranny's clutch master cylinder?

ricodemus

I think HASport has a kit coming out real soon for that.

dlric

info like this is the reason i come to honda-tech.

and some for bein cool and takin the effort to do the write up. i wanna go check out your car sometime man.

Urban Business

too many words.... id stick w/ cable hehehe on the info tho

spettinger

excellent info. i only like hydro trannies because of their stronger synchro's, but i dislike the hydro clutch pedal concept. i would rather make the kit that extends the clutch cable and does the work of the slave cylinder. no possible leaks! cheers to you, sir.

owen_the_soyboy

JDM_DOHC_SiR

Good Job

good info for EF/DA guys

WuShu

stick it to da man, macky!

PushrodKing

more pictures plz

Home Skillet

Mackie, youre a pretty cool stunna sharin this info. i didnt see any teabags in these photos.

dohcsideSi

show everybody some pics of the sleeper!! did you ever figure out what to do w/ all that extra harness???

CLICC916

awesome info man, can you show some pics of the tranny/cylinder/firewall/anythingelseiforgottomentionthathastodowiththehydr otranny?

jdmIScool

how long have you had your tranny in now..........how is it running

mackymcg

I've had it in since January, it's been working great, I love it. I've had it out once when the pressure plate shattered. I started out with two bad clutch pedals that leaked fluid, but now I have that all sorted out and haven't had to make any changes to my original design since I put in the third, working clutch pedal, and even then I just changed the mounting of the pedal from sheetmetal screws to bolts and nuts.

I wish I could take more pictures for you guys but I would have to take the dash off to show you the pedal and I've filled in the other side with silicon to kill road noise coming in to the cabin, so all youwould see is a large hole filled with silicon.

I'm planning on switching to the fastline performance SS clutch line in a month or so, I would recommend it to anyone doing the conversion, it an added step of protection against the reservoir hose getting cut by the hole you have to make in the firewall. Here is a link to the ITR about the Clutch Line:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=254902

This came back from the archives, again, glad it could be of use to some people though.

93eg-EKhybrid

bump for a good article

Steve Berman

Nice! Thanks Bud.

Spaceballsthelunchbox

Here is what I did to a Hasport transmission mount for a Type R swap with type R hydro tranny.
All you need to do is cut the lower part of the mount off. then cut a piece of aluminum prefferably 6061 T6 since that's what the mounts are made out of.
Cut a large rectangle and transfer the holes on to that piece, then put it on the tranny and mark where you need to cut to make it fit.

i also converted the clutch to hydro, as you can see the hard lines and rubber hose to the slave cylinder on the tranny.


[Modified by Spaceballs the lunch box, 4:11 PM 8/24/2002]

ColdAccord

wow, thank you very much. I am much obliged. I am thinking about doing this swap in a 91 civic si. after the swap, how does it handle? ever been to the track? i,m wondering how the power to weight ratio really does with this swap. thanks

BLK JDM

I know I'm bringing this post back from the dead but how different would this swap be in a 93 GSR DA body?? I know the EF and the DA share a lot of similarities but also some differences. I have a USDM OBD2 B18c1 w/ JDM ITR tranny that I'd like to do a swap into but no one makes mounts nor has info that I've read specific to the DA. If anyone knows please PM me or post. Thanks a million!!

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Chassis work :
I don't know why some people say that the tranny won't fit in the engine bay, I had no trouble getting it in.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not sure about the hydro tranny, but with HASport mounts I know my co-worker had to beat his passenger side frame rail a slight bit to accomodate a YS1 cable tranny because it's case is physically longer/larger than the older cable trannies.

Would hydro trannies not be the same?

Maybe the non-HASport mounts make the difference?

QUiKSR20

iTrader: (1)

My 01 GSR Swap fit fine with hasports didnt have to touch the pass side frame rail and this was with a hydro GSR Trans!