9 CRX si 1

So I was putting the head on because I just got a valve job, new gasket, etc. And the 2nd bolt I am tightening is stripping, so I take off the head and the next day use a HeliCoil kit and drill, tap, and fix it. I put the head back on. I tighten them all lightly then to the torque specs and order. It held up, and everythings fine. YAY. Then last bolt strips so close to being done!

So off it goes again. Drill, tap, repair, clean up. And also chased all the other holes just in case. Now I think I am all set at this point, So here goes nothing.. Everythings fine and here comes number 10 again.. STRIP!

So I am pretty "upset" at this point. I have been taking my time rebuilding and working on this project, that I want this thing to be running soon. So I put the timing belt on, cover, valve cover with new gaskets. And my question is what problems am I going to run into? It is the top right head bolt on my D16A6, by the timing belt. What can I do? Does the timing belt put added pressure down on the head to help it out a little? lol

Anyone ever strip head bolts? Because it has been a pain in my ***.

Jonknee

Mine broke off because i tightened it too much. haha.

nappyroots827

did the bolt strip or did the thread in the block strip? cuz if its the bolt, easy fix, go to honda or http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com and buy one, if its the block, ure gonna have to use a helicoil but i dunno how much i would trust a helicoil...although head bolts are only to like 50 ft. lbs, so maybe..i dunno, but if its the bolt itself, just get another

9 CRX si 1

It is the block, not the bolt. But I did use a helicoil ^ but it didn't hold I guess..

salman

ill be batter if u do it again, Else ill
be a headic.

9 CRX si 1

anybody driving their EF with one stripped head bolt? MAJOR problems?

temp

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by salman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ill be batter if u do it again, Else ill
be a headic.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


so if he does it again, his headbolt will turn into a semi liquid substance used typically when frying or baking? interesting

9 CRX si 1

that's what I'm saying, not sure if i want to do it again.. haha

EJ1 wilcox

You could always take it into a machine shop and have them fix it for you if worst comes to worst.

I hate that feeling of the threads stripping. My d-series head has three stripped valve cover bolt holes. They stripped one right after another. Luckily heli coils are enough to fix them because they don't have to hold much pressure.

nappyroots827

yea, its gonna cost a penny or two, but pretty much ure only option that is safe is to have a machine shop weld the holes shut and retap them, cuz you really don't wanna drive with a loose headbolt, ure gonna lose compression, i garuntee it, and if anything oil and water are gonna mix

EJ1 wilcox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nappyroots827 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea, its gonna cost a penny or two, but pretty much ure only option that is safe is to have a machine shop weld the holes shut and retap them, cuz you really don't wanna drive with a loose headbolt, ure gonna lose compression, i garuntee it, and if anything oil and water are gonna mix</TD></TR></TABLE>

True. But then again, this is just a d16a6, you can find a mint block for much less than $100. And a machine shop is going to charge you much more than that to fix your block.

Maybe you would be better off swapping the block out. That's what I would do at least. Or maybe it's time for a different engine all together?

9 CRX si 1

ha, i dont know man, I got all new pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, and shiattt for this motor, don't know if I want something new, just wanted a relaible, close to stock motor with some bolt ons.. everything was fine til this happened..

But nobody has a stripped head bolt?

9 CRX si 1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hate that feeling of the threads stripping.</TD></TR></TABLE>

especially at close to 50 ft./lbs. your torqueing it down, and your just hoping nothing happens, and so close then slippppp..

shortyz21

buy a new shortblock

they are like 20$

FastReligion

I think this trick might work, try using thread maker, make the threads and then buy arp rod bolts, this should work because what you do is hand tight the studs to the block only and all the torquing and tightning pressure comes from the bolts and washers up top, this will probably cure your problems and hold the head down properly, let me know how it goes...

EJ1 wilcox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9 CRX si 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ha, i dont know man, I got all new pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, and shiattt for this motor, don't know if I want something new, just wanted a relaible, close to stock motor with some bolt ons.. everything was fine til this happened..

But nobody has a stripped head bolt?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dang, so you just rebuilt this one?...

I think there are other re-threading methods other than helicoil. In fact I'm almost certain that Timecerts are stronger than helicoils.

Timecerts use solid threads, not those weak coil things that helicoils use, I bet they would work better in a high torque application like a head stud.

http://www.timesert.com/

mar778c

iTrader: (1)

I would take it to a machine shop even with the timesert.

nappyroots827

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FastReligion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think this trick might work, try using thread maker, make the threads and then buy arp rod bolts, this should work because what you do is hand tight the studs to the block only and all the torquing and tightning pressure comes from the bolts and washers up top, this will probably cure your problems and hold the head down properly, let me know how it goes...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good thing your not an engineer, or else hondas wouldn't be very reliable...
when your tightening down the nut on arp head bolts, its just gonna aply force on the new thread in the head, its physics man, don't give people bad ideas...