tygsr

I drive a turbo charged integra and I want to build a car for autocross. I was thinking a CRX would be a good chassis, swap a b16 or b18c1 in it, do some all-motor work and sick suspension and have a good little race car..Any experience with autocrossing the CRX? any info greatly appreciated..

solorex

First off, if you are getting into autocrossing get the engine swap idea out of your head right away. Concentrate on spending your money on tires, wide 13" rims and suspension. SoloII is not about how much hp you have, rather driver skill, then handling.

rice_classic

Suspension/Wheels/Tires FIRST!!

if you DO a swap make sure you get the b18 as it will have more torque in and out of vtec and you will be faster then someone with the same setup/skills that has a b16.

Lord Quaalard

Well put, although I would go for 15" with Azenis's. The people who hold their speed through the corners are the ones who win. Not those with more power than traction. Don't swap, I actually was having traction trouble at the last event with my D16. Do the suspension first and you will be pleasently surprised with the REX.

No More Civic

I have 15's (Teg GSR's) with Azenis. Even though I haven't auto-x'ed yet. I will say that they definately hold the road. Better than other tires that I have drove on. I do alot of really hard cornering and they definately hold thier speed.

Steve91

A CRX is a great platform for autocross. An engine swaps would be very low on my list of priorities for a true autocross car since tires and suspension are the most important factors IMO

XrcR6

Seconds to what everyone said, power is the least of your concerns in the begining. Work on the driver, then tires, then suspension, then weight (of course car prep is all limited by the class you run). If you can drive a stock motor flat out and carry momentum, you will be faster than someone with more horsepower who has to back off, brake early, etc.

I see a lot of people try to fix a perceived deficit (power), that's fine, but what about exploiting strengths of the car (lightweight, nimble and small). In the last two years I can recall besting all CRX's in my region with: stockD16A6, D16A6 JRSC, ZC, B16, and B16-Turbo. If fact I've only lost to another CRX at 2 events in that time, and he's only a mini-me and a good driver.

Also, if you are in the position to build a car (most people jump in first for fun and find a comfortable class to run in later for competition), you should figure out what class you "want" to be in. If you are going to the trouble to build a dedicated car, I take it you want to win or at least be competitive with a chance of winning.

1G or 2G CRX would be great for CSP, but guess what, swaps not allowed. If you want a build a swapped 2G CRX for the sake of it, you'll end up in D Mod (i think) or else StreetMod2. Either way it will take alot of driving skill and car prep$$$$ to be competitive.


[Modified by XrcR6, 3:10 PM 11/1/2002]

88 rex

How well does the almighty D15b hold up on the auto-X course?

SmokyMtnRex

I auto-x at my local SCCA Club's Events. CRX's are quite popular. Robert Carpenter (Last Years National Champ) attends our events. I agree that wheels, tires, suspension is a big factor. Study your classes and see what looks the best for you. I am in CSP. Pretty much I can do a few bolt ons, no internals, wheels, suspension, and all out exhaust. I think in stock you can change shocks, wheels(that are same size as stock), and exhaust. Someone please correct me on any mistakes.

To answer your question, yes a CRX makes a great car. Perfect horsepower for a regular course. Just look over rules and see what you want to do and match it up with a class.

Good luck. It is always good to have a new auto-xer out there.

stockcrix1616

i would suggest starting in the stock class. get to learn the car, how to read the cones and you can do some performance parts (shocks, tires on factorys, cat back, dropin air filter,) and find out if you really like it. then move up to csp once you feel you can handle it, (tires and rims, header, intake,springs) and if you get brave once you master those and know you wana spend the $, gut it and do the swap and go to d-mod (dont matter.) but remember its for fun, like anything dont let it put to much pressure on you and then it wont be fun anymore.

XrcR6

D15b is in the middle model (DX/Std.) right? I think that's classed in FSP, we don't have any in my region...but Regionally I can see it being a contender, nationally is another thing with the mid-80's RWD corolla's and the early 80's vw's. Hold-up?, well its a Honda after all and Street Prepared doesn't let you go that crazy on mods to stress anything...

I know someone with an 88 hatch (4sp & ~62hp to the wheels), he outdrives many cars that should be faster on paper. In our region courses are fairly tight/technical/med. speed events. Bigger/speed courses and we all get killed.

88 rex

So if i threw on some liteweight rims (15's) and some suspension mods, what class would I be in........Also, are brake upgrades allowed or does it all really matter what class you are in ?

Also, are true coilovers like Tein illegal to use in certain classes?

SmokyMtnRex

15 inch wheels will put you in a Street Prepared class. Wheels have to remain the same size as stock ones in order to run in stock class. The only suspension mod for stock class is shocks. I don't know where brakes would put you.

Good luck.

88 rex

Thanks..............

E-AT_me

all 2nd gen crx's are in CSP.

i have a B16a crx with street tires and run in SM2. i'm only about 2-3 seconds from an M coupe on Race Tires who does track events as well..

what i should have done:
1988 CRX HF
motor: 1991 CRX Si
tranny: stock Si tranny + LSD
suspension, front: koni Yellows, revalved shortened. ground control coil-over sleeves w/450lb springs
suspension, rear: koni yellows, revalved shortened. ground control coil-over sleeves w/550 or 600 lb springs, ADDCO or OPM motorsports rear swaybar
wheels: 13x9 panasports
tires: 235 series Khumo Ecsta V700's.
interior: aftermarket steering wheel, roll bar, racing harness, 2 racing seats (<- saves weight)

much other things to buy.... but don't do ANY of this untill you've had seat time.

Torino91LS

where would this setup place me:

Suspension: Energy Suspension Bushings (master kit and misc bushings)
KYB AGX Struts
Eibach Sportline Springs
DropZone Camber Kit
Suspension Techniques Front and Rear Sway Bars.

Brakes:
90 Integra front and rear brakes
90 Integra Master cylinder and Vacuum Booster
Stainless Steele Brakelines

Tires:
Sumitomo Srixon 4
American Racing aluminum rims 14"

Engine:
Jdm B16A with CTR cams
Skunk2 Manifold
Dc Sports Header
Modified Thermostat and radiator
ApexI VAFC
MSd Ignition System

My Local Speed Shop said I would be in some Pro Modified Class or something like that. I would love to autocross but I don't want to be eaten alive.

matt j

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kincaidcrxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where would this setup place me:

Suspension: Energy Suspension Bushings (master kit and misc bushings)
KYB AGX Struts
Eibach Sportline Springs
DropZone Camber Kit
Suspension Techniques Front and Rear Sway Bars.


Brakes:
90 Integra front and rear brakes
90 Integra Master cylinder and Vacuum Booster
Stainless Steele Brakelines

Tires:
Sumitomo Srixon 4
American Racing aluminum rims 14"

Engine:
Jdm B16A with CTR cams
Skunk2 Manifold
Dc Sports Header
Modified Thermostat and radiator
ApexI VAFC
MSd Ignition System

My Local Speed Shop said I would be in some Pro Modified Class or something like that. I would love to autocross but I don't want to be eaten alive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you would be in street modified

EDIT: go to http://www.teamsdxracing.com its the team i race with (only one with a fourth gen hatch one third gen) almost all the guys autocross crxs

markw

Bzzt, CRX's are excluded from Street Modified. Those mods would having it in Street Modified 2. I should know, that's my class. For the Rex, you want suspension, suspension, suspension, then follow that with some sticky tires. If you run the stock motor, you want to drop to 13's and go wide. I've got a ZC swap with an LSD, and run 15x6.5 Nippon F2's (Rota Slipstreams) which weigh in at 12lbs shod with 205/50-15 Victoracers. Go back to the stock front swaybar, or if you can find one an HF front bar. I've got the ST bar hanging in my garage if anyone wants to make me an offer on it. Anyway, your car is making power, and eww, just saw the B16, you may want to stick with the ST bar. Anyway, it's funny, the drag/street racers around here are finding out about autocross, and all these mods they've done have thrown them into crazy classes. MattED6 had to run Street Modified first time out because he changed a body panel (CF hood) now he runs the local IS3 class. I ran IS3 before my swap, and the DX motor held it's own, and I either finished 2nd or 3rd, once I ran in the class, and I had a 1st when I was still a novice so it didn't count against the others in the class. It comes down to driver and how well the car handles, as most courses use just 2nd gear. Car Class Rules are here: http://www.moutons.org/sccasolo/


Modified by markw at 7:47 AM 5/2/2003

matt j

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by markw &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bzzt, CRX's are excluded from Street Modified. Those mods would having it in Street Modified 2. I should know, that's my class. For the Rex, you want suspension, suspension, suspension, then follow that with some sticky tires. If you run the stock motor, you want to drop to 13's and go wide. I've got a ZC swap with an LSD, and run 15x6.5 Nippon F2's (Rota Slipstreams) which weigh in at 12lbs shod with 205/50-15 Victoracers. Go back to the stock front swaybar, or if you can find one an HF front bar. I've got the ST bar hanging in my garage if anyone wants to make me an offer on it. Anyway, your car is making power, and eww, just saw the B16, you may want to stick with the ST bar. Anyway, it's funny, the drag/street racers around here are finding out about autocross, and all these mods they've done have thrown them into crazy classes. MattED6 had to run Street Modified first time out because he changed a body panel (CF hood) now he runs the local IS3 class. I ran IS3 before my swap, and the DX motor held it's own, and I either finished 2nd or 3rd, once I ran in the class, and I had a 1st when I was still a novice so it didn't count against the others in the class. It comes down to driver and how well the car handles, as most courses use just 2nd gear. Car Class Rules are here: http://www.moutons.org/sccasolo/


Modified by markw at 7:47 AM 5/2/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for coming in and saying that mark i can never keep the national classes and the regional classes in order!

hey are you going to holtville on the 18th? would you be willing to help me put in new rear brake cylinders, shoes, brake fluid, and front struts??

m0nk3y

run 100% stock a few times. then build AFTER looking up the classes. the rules are strict.

tygsr

Wow this thread got resurected from the dead..