md88hfcrx

in my crx my heater doenst work...it blows air and all but doesnt get hot...and suggestions?

Coltmorris

run your car and grab the heater lines...if theyre hot then your heater core could be bad..if they arent it could be your thermostat

crxtreme89h

I am having similar issues. If you fix the problem please post here. I will do the same. I have a thermostat that I will be putting in soon. I haven't tested anything yet though so that may not fix the problem.

Coltmorris

same here..i replaced my thermostat, rad, and hoses..and before i got a chance to see if it worked my car wont even start..trying to diag that problem on a seperate thread now..

progress

Same thing happened to me last week except my heat slowly went away. Someone said this is due to slow coolant loss either through a leak or through a blown headgasket. As the coolant levels diminished, there was less coolant to go through the heater core and then subsequently, less coolant to cool the engine, resulting in my overheating. Upper rad hose gets hot but lower hose stays cold. It was suggested I may have air pockets/block in the coolant lines somewhere. Water pump was changed late last summer with a new Honda one, thermostat was changed out last Friday. Car ran for a bit then died. We're trying to determine why it died and now won't start. It has been suggested I may have a faulty distributor, main relay or some other problem. Car is going to be towed to my dad's friend's garage. Thank God for all the CRX forums cuz now I have all sorts of potential solutions to throw his way so he can try to figure it all out!

md88hfcrx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by progress &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Same thing happened to me last week except my heat slowly went away. Someone said this is due to slow coolant loss either through a leak or through a blown headgasket. As the coolant levels diminished, there was less coolant to go through the heater core and then subsequently, less coolant to cool the engine, resulting in my overheating. Upper rad hose gets hot but lower hose stays cold. It was suggested I may have air pockets/block in the coolant lines somewhere. Water pump was changed late last summer with a new Honda one, thermostat was changed out last Friday. Car ran for a bit then died. We're trying to determine why it died and now won't start. It has been suggested I may have a faulty distributor, main relay or some other problem. Car is going to be towed to my dad's friend's garage. Thank God for all the CRX forums cuz now I have all sorts of potential solutions to throw his way so he can try to figure it all out!</TD></TR></TABLE>


yeah mine did the same but my car didnt die...i knew my rad was bad...
always check the fuses and the alternator solenoid fuse...i replaced it today and my car started!

i dont have leak so im thinkin its the heater core

crxtreme89h

no leak here either

CRXB16T

Does the car overheat?

1. I would bleed the cooling system to make sure there is no air pockets. I have had that problem before easy fix.

2. It wouldn't be a bad idea to pressure test the system to see if there are any leaks etc.

3. If all else fails replace the heater core.

md88hfcrx

no it doesnt overheat.. i just replaced the entire cooling system...

you bleed the system via the bleed bolt on the elbow where the thermostat goes.. correct?

progress

Here's a pretty good instructional on bleeding your cooling system...(Thanks dohcrxl from another forum!)

1) With the engine cold, top off the radiator.

2) fully warm up the engine

3) open the bleeder screw one and a half turns

4) get in the car and rev the engine up and down between 1000 and 4000 rpm

5) while doing step 3 also repeatedly turn the climate control heat selection from cold to hot. This will help create surges to push out any air.

6) continue doing steps 3 and 4 for a full 20 seconds

7) get back under the hood and close the bleed screw until it is a quarter turn from completely closing.

8.) rev the engine a couple times then on the 2nd or 3rd rev, close the bleeder screw and tighten it to spec. 7 or 8 foot pounds is all that's needed. It's also important that you close the screw on the up rev and not while the rpm's are dropping back down. I personally am paranoid that the engine could suck a little air back into the system on the return stroke of the rev.

9) shut off engine and let it cool for an hour

10) open the radiator cap and top off to the brim

md88hfcrx

thanks for the info...ill give it a shot.