When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I worked a twelve hour night shift, got off work, and drove 380 miles into eastern Utah, to buy another EF. I'll post pics tomorrow.
Good:
B18a swapped. Obd0 though I think.
Body isn't that horrible, other than a bad rocker panel, and some broken light lenses.
750 bucks, Clean title.
Bad:
Clunking noises in front end. I suspect sway bar links.
Shifter slop like I've never seen.
Engine burns oil, but doesn't smoke really.
No tach, DX cluster.
Interior is trashed, no radio,
Trans grinds into fourth, and a little off throttle in 4th and 5th.
Needs windshield.
Plans: Forged bottom end, stock head, TD0 something turbo, Neptune, GSR trans, 250whp. Then BC cams and springs, Holset H1C, looking for about 400whp. Just a scary street car.
Pics.
The *** is fat. Single ding in quarter panel, but no rust in the wheel arch. The key. Fused lead coming through the firewall. Why? Who knows. The heart of the beast. Definitely pretty tired. Another exterior shot
Found out why the temp gauge isn't working and fixed it. I believe the high idle problem I have is the ECU temp sending unit, engine always thinks it's cold, haven't seen any cause for a vacuum leak.
All kinds of electrical tape. Wire just snapped off and no one could find five minutes to go to autozone, get a crimp connector and fix it. Smh. I guess i'll have to find out what that does and where it went. Two pins pulled, to save alternator load, no doubt. Nothing but pro **** on the tetanus edition Civic. :D
Also have a curiously empty plug next to my alternator, no plug dangling nearby. Someone seriously ghetto rigged stuff.
Ya, from the questions I see on here, there is an endless line of asshats with a socket set and no clue what to do. So what you're finding doesn't surprise me one bit.
The ECTS being non-existent would cause it to run very very rich. Not sure about idle though. Haven't seen one of the early IACVs, but every later one I've seen gets coolant run through it. The mechanism by which the coolant present in the IACV acts upon idle speed escapes me. I never really delved very deep into it, but I know if coolant is slightly low, the idle will bounce between low and high just with coolant 'splashing' into the IACV. That's why I say I'm not sure the ECTS is solely responsible for high idle.
Put a vacuum gauge on it, see if you have a leak somewhere.
Not sure about idle though. Haven't seen one of the early IACVs, but every later one I've seen gets coolant run through it. The mechanism by which the coolant present in the IACV acts upon idle speed escapes me.
As far as I know, coolant only flows through the FITV, you may have gotten them mixed up, or I could be wrong, but there's a thermostat mechanism which pulls a plunger, opening another inlet in your throttle body to raise your idle until the car warms up. And the research I've done actually seems to point to that, or the IACV. I would have thought a vacuum leak except the idle is extremely steady. It seems to me the FITV may be gunked up, or just backed way too far out. I'll be looking into it soon, of course I'll be spraying around the TB first, looking for leaks, but that's not where my suspicions lie.
Bouncing Idle and Mystery Head Bolts - VTEC Academy
Found a really good guide to D and B series idle problems, to share with anyone I find who has them. Gonna hunt it down at around six this morning and get it fixed.
Also found out that you're right bbarbulo, some IACV's do have coolant plumbed to them.
The more you know.
Idle problem pretty much fixed! It was the FITV. Dug it out, cleaned it up a bit, oiled the o rings, and bottomed the screw, and backed it out a quarter turn. Now the car idles at around 700 rpm. If I plug the hole with my finger as detailed in the link, the idle slowly drops another 25 to 50 rpms, so I suspect I either should have left it bottomed, or it's a bit leaky. Idle is still a tiny bit high, but at least it's not 1500 like it was lmao.
Gonna unplug the IACV and adjust a little more since the car is warm.
Definitely. Haha. I'm gonna get it washed in a bit, throw some Lucas in it, and clean the interior a little later. That red Utah soil makes a car look like ****. Especially if the car already looks like ****.
Sad update.
My girlfriend and I were driving to the local DMV to sort out some title issues with a Cavalier we're selling. We're cruising down a main street at 25 mph, and skrrrt. The wheels locked and the engine slammed to a stop. I clutched in and coasted into a parking lot. Car in neutral would roll. Put it in gear, rocked it back and forth, and could hear a nice healthy "thunk thunk thunk".
So it looks like the pistons and valves have eloped. What a happy union. I had checked the timing belt and it looked good, must have not been tensioned properly, it's still in one piece, and rather tight.
TL;DR,
Timing belt skipped a few teeth, P to V contact, looks like i get to start my first engine build early.
Also I know enough to understand that it's almost guaranteed that most of the valves are bent, and the pistons have matching dents, if not holes. But in your guys experience, is block damage a common thing to see in timing related P to V scenarios? Obviously there's no gash in my block barfing oil, but I want to be prepared for the worst when I pull the block to tear it down.
It's extremely rare to see block damage when a belt slips. Usually you can just get a set of valves and a valve job and put it all right back together without any problems.
yeah I just did a TDI with a botched TB job, there was no bottom end damage. I threw another head on it, new head gasket, studs, belt, and it ran like a champ.
It will be an easy fix. How did you determine that there is P to V contact? How fast was the engine going? That kind of thing stresses the camshaft too, so once back together, you could be doing the same thing again in 3 months when the camshaft finally snaps. I've seen it happen, a stressed cam snapped because it was ever so slightly bent, so as it went round and round... eventually the flex from turning a 'bent' cam caused it to let go.
04-25-2017, 09:23 PM
EF number 2
at least 5mil nitrile 
