dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread
07-19-2017, 09:05 PM
#176
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Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread
not much happening in here for a little while at least, i've just had knee surgery 2 days ago so i'll be taking it easy for the next few weeks. full anterior cruciate ligament reconstruction and partially torn meniscal cartilage repair from a soccer injury late last year that wasn't diagnosed properly at the time.
last week i ended up getting some new radiator hose worm-clamps to see if they would stop the leaking issue. i've no longer found any coolant drips under the car after driving or leaving it over night, but i can still get a bit of coolant on my hand when sticking it under the thermostat housing so it's not completely fixed yet. i plan to leave it as is for now, and install an oem thermostat and gasket when i next change the oil in a few hundred k's.
i took the car out a few times over the weekend to enjoy it before my surgery. still fine tuning fuel maps (havent switched to closed-loop mode yet), and started slowly and carefully adding ignition timing as the car was running out of steam in the upper rpm range a bit. i added a maximum of 2 degrees in some areas which from what i've researched should be safe (due to dropping from stock to 9:1 compression). the car feels like it keeps pulling in the high rpms now so i'll be happy with it as it is for now.
also messed around with the vtec engagement window and launch control parameters a bit for fun.
last week i ended up getting some new radiator hose worm-clamps to see if they would stop the leaking issue. i've no longer found any coolant drips under the car after driving or leaving it over night, but i can still get a bit of coolant on my hand when sticking it under the thermostat housing so it's not completely fixed yet. i plan to leave it as is for now, and install an oem thermostat and gasket when i next change the oil in a few hundred k's.
i took the car out a few times over the weekend to enjoy it before my surgery. still fine tuning fuel maps (havent switched to closed-loop mode yet), and started slowly and carefully adding ignition timing as the car was running out of steam in the upper rpm range a bit. i added a maximum of 2 degrees in some areas which from what i've researched should be safe (due to dropping from stock to 9:1 compression). the car feels like it keeps pulling in the high rpms now so i'll be happy with it as it is for now.
also messed around with the vtec engagement window and launch control parameters a bit for fun.
08-04-2017, 05:45 PM
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Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread
i'm still keeping up with reading all the updates to your build, and still impressed with all the details,
to be honest, i have to skip through alot of stuff when reading through, just because it contains a lot of technical terms i just don't understand, mostly the stuff related to all the technical tuning stuff, which i've never messed with before.
i just hope that this is'nt one of those builds where once you get the car all finished and perfect, then you just get rid of it or trade or sell it and move on to some other car right away, because i've seen a couple build posts like that recently, and was just sad and frustrating to me to read, and i just wish that people would choose to keep and hold on to the car and really appreciate all the work they have done to it getting it to that point, and being able to use it and drive it and enjoy it.
anyways, keep it up, and i'll keep reading
to be honest, i have to skip through alot of stuff when reading through, just because it contains a lot of technical terms i just don't understand, mostly the stuff related to all the technical tuning stuff, which i've never messed with before.
i just hope that this is'nt one of those builds where once you get the car all finished and perfect, then you just get rid of it or trade or sell it and move on to some other car right away, because i've seen a couple build posts like that recently, and was just sad and frustrating to me to read, and i just wish that people would choose to keep and hold on to the car and really appreciate all the work they have done to it getting it to that point, and being able to use it and drive it and enjoy it.
anyways, keep it up, and i'll keep reading
08-09-2017, 02:53 AM
#179
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Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread
i'm still keeping up with reading all the updates to your build, and still impressed with all the details,
to be honest, i have to skip through alot of stuff when reading through, just because it contains a lot of technical terms i just don't understand, mostly the stuff related to all the technical tuning stuff, which i've never messed with before.
i just hope that this is'nt one of those builds where once you get the car all finished and perfect, then you just get rid of it or trade or sell it and move on to some other car right away, because i've seen a couple build posts like that recently, and was just sad and frustrating to me to read, and i just wish that people would choose to keep and hold on to the car and really appreciate all the work they have done to it getting it to that point, and being able to use it and drive it and enjoy it.
anyways, keep it up, and i'll keep reading
to be honest, i have to skip through alot of stuff when reading through, just because it contains a lot of technical terms i just don't understand, mostly the stuff related to all the technical tuning stuff, which i've never messed with before.
i just hope that this is'nt one of those builds where once you get the car all finished and perfect, then you just get rid of it or trade or sell it and move on to some other car right away, because i've seen a couple build posts like that recently, and was just sad and frustrating to me to read, and i just wish that people would choose to keep and hold on to the car and really appreciate all the work they have done to it getting it to that point, and being able to use it and drive it and enjoy it.
anyways, keep it up, and i'll keep reading
also i cant think of anything that would make me get rid of the car at this point.. way too much time and money spent, i dont think anyone would appreciate it nearly as much or treat it like i do. i know what you mean with the build then immediately part out thing.
my knee is healing pretty quickly and i think i'd be ok to drive at this point, however still being very careful. in the next few days i plan to clean up the garage and move a cabinet/workbench into it with some help, and install a bench vice as well. this is all so i can start working on a custom turbo manifold. i've gathered the parts needed and practiced mocking up merge collectors out of paper before i go wasting steam pipe. this is going to be very budget conscious if you couldnt already see...
08-16-2017, 05:46 AM
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Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread
got the garage all organised with the new cabinet in and vice installed over the weekend, then got to working on the turbo manifold. chose to go with a mini-ram style manifold due to space constraints and overall simplicity of fabrication, small amount of materials needed and relatively good performance from what i've read of others using mini-rams.
using laser cut 1/2" mild steel head flange and t3 turbo flange, and 1 1/2" mild steel steampipe for the runners and merge collector. the tools i've been using are pretty limited - a grinder with cutting, grinding, and sanding discs, and a flux-core mig welder. so it was never going to be the nicest looking manifold out there but hopefully it will hold up.
the majority of the time spent making this was put into smoothing and straightening out the rough cuts made by the grinder and cutting disc. if i ever do this again i'll make sure i get a jig saw or something better suited.
i started by cutting 4 3.5" lengths of the straight steampipe to make the merge collector. very roughly cut them at approximately 20 degrees, rotated by 90 degrees and cut again at 20 degrees. you can see they're a bit uneven due to the inaccurate method used
all cleaned, sanded back and straightened up, ready to tack weld
merge collector half welded and half tacked together, started to make the runners. began with cylinders 2 and 3 as they were the easiest and doing these would allow me to tack on the head flange to allow trial fitment on the engine
got to work on the runners 1 and 4, these were a lot more time consuming and took many many many mock ups, cuts, and alterations. here it is just tacked together. at this stage all the runners roughly meet the head flange in the right positions, but arent exactly flush and squashed into the oval shape needed just yet. i figure i'll shave them all down to even things up during the final stages before welding each one to the head flange.
i've left the turbo inlet flange off, to be done last. that way i can angle it as needed to get the most clearance for the downpipe past the radiator fan. looking pretty good so far i think
using laser cut 1/2" mild steel head flange and t3 turbo flange, and 1 1/2" mild steel steampipe for the runners and merge collector. the tools i've been using are pretty limited - a grinder with cutting, grinding, and sanding discs, and a flux-core mig welder. so it was never going to be the nicest looking manifold out there but hopefully it will hold up.
the majority of the time spent making this was put into smoothing and straightening out the rough cuts made by the grinder and cutting disc. if i ever do this again i'll make sure i get a jig saw or something better suited.
i started by cutting 4 3.5" lengths of the straight steampipe to make the merge collector. very roughly cut them at approximately 20 degrees, rotated by 90 degrees and cut again at 20 degrees. you can see they're a bit uneven due to the inaccurate method used
all cleaned, sanded back and straightened up, ready to tack weld
merge collector half welded and half tacked together, started to make the runners. began with cylinders 2 and 3 as they were the easiest and doing these would allow me to tack on the head flange to allow trial fitment on the engine
got to work on the runners 1 and 4, these were a lot more time consuming and took many many many mock ups, cuts, and alterations. here it is just tacked together. at this stage all the runners roughly meet the head flange in the right positions, but arent exactly flush and squashed into the oval shape needed just yet. i figure i'll shave them all down to even things up during the final stages before welding each one to the head flange.
i've left the turbo inlet flange off, to be done last. that way i can angle it as needed to get the most clearance for the downpipe past the radiator fan. looking pretty good so far i think
08-18-2017, 05:59 PM
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Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread
thanks guys
i've still got to figure out the wastegate position so once i've finished welding that to the manifold then i'll probably high temp or ceramic paint the whole thing. i want to be able to keep an eye on it to check for any cracks when i first start using it. i figure if it doesnt leak and i wont be having to repair it all the time then i'll wrap the header, down pipe, and dump pipe at the same time
i've still got to figure out the wastegate position so once i've finished welding that to the manifold then i'll probably high temp or ceramic paint the whole thing. i want to be able to keep an eye on it to check for any cracks when i first start using it. i figure if it doesnt leak and i wont be having to repair it all the time then i'll wrap the header, down pipe, and dump pipe at the same time
08-22-2017, 07:22 PM
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Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread
finished up the manifold apart from working out wastegate placement. from the last picture posted i then marked the alignment of each pipe section, then broke the runners apart and cleaned up each piece, added a bevel to each piece's end, and dremeled away all rough edges from the inner edges where cuts were made. moved on to welding all the runners and the merge collector together fully, taking care to clean out the welding spatter from the interior of the runners and smooth out the transitions between each piece as i went. after the runners were all connected to the collector i then used the grinder to get all the ends of the runners on the same level so they could be squished into the right oval shapes and mated up to the head flange for welding. ended up having to grind down some of the welds near the bolt holes on the head flange to allow the nuts to be tightened down properly but they all clear now and the manifold slides over the studs easily. there's a bit of warping in the head flange that i'll need to fix up annoyingly. i thought i'd avoid that by using 1/2" plate but whatever.
now being able to mount the manifold securely to the head i worked on the placement of the turbine inlet flange, as i wanted to angle it a bit towards the block to give extra radiator fan/downpipe clearance. mocked it up and cut the end off the merge collector and tacked the inlet flange onto the manifold before test fitting again and being happy with the final location. looks like a little bit of warping in the inlet flange too, so i'll work on that when i do the head flange. managed to bolt the turbo to the manifold and fit it all up without any issues at all, no need to shorten any of the bolts for clearance or anything
made up my oil feed line, ended up using a 1/8th npt to -3an from the oil sandwich plate, -3an stainless braided line 1m long, and the supplied oil restrictor into the housing.
for the oil drain i had already bought a -10an drain fitting that bolts to the housing, so was planning to use a -10an line and oil pan fitting which i already have ready to go, but now i'm not sure there's enough distance between the turbo position and the oil pan. i would just get push on hose fittings but i'd rather stick with the -an stuff i already bought if i can.
with the turbo placement finalised i started looking at making up the dump pipe, and i should be able to manage the 3" vband setup i was planning on doing if i make the bend quite sharp from the turbine exit and tuck it up close to the oil pan.
then looked at the route of intercooler piping which might be an issue. the thing is that i really want to keep the foglights in, which will cause big problems with the cold side piping. i'll place the intercooler slightly toward the RHS of the car so that i can use a 90degree coupler to pass through the existing hole under the LHS headlight (after making it a bit larger) and then a 90degree pipe and coupler to get to the compressor outlet. however with the cold side piping, the intercooler outlet basically leads directly towards the foglight. i'll have to remove the bumper and mock things up to get a better idea of things but i might just remove the foglights to make things easier to at least get things running but we'll see what i can figure out.
now being able to mount the manifold securely to the head i worked on the placement of the turbine inlet flange, as i wanted to angle it a bit towards the block to give extra radiator fan/downpipe clearance. mocked it up and cut the end off the merge collector and tacked the inlet flange onto the manifold before test fitting again and being happy with the final location. looks like a little bit of warping in the inlet flange too, so i'll work on that when i do the head flange. managed to bolt the turbo to the manifold and fit it all up without any issues at all, no need to shorten any of the bolts for clearance or anything
made up my oil feed line, ended up using a 1/8th npt to -3an from the oil sandwich plate, -3an stainless braided line 1m long, and the supplied oil restrictor into the housing.
for the oil drain i had already bought a -10an drain fitting that bolts to the housing, so was planning to use a -10an line and oil pan fitting which i already have ready to go, but now i'm not sure there's enough distance between the turbo position and the oil pan. i would just get push on hose fittings but i'd rather stick with the -an stuff i already bought if i can.
with the turbo placement finalised i started looking at making up the dump pipe, and i should be able to manage the 3" vband setup i was planning on doing if i make the bend quite sharp from the turbine exit and tuck it up close to the oil pan.
then looked at the route of intercooler piping which might be an issue. the thing is that i really want to keep the foglights in, which will cause big problems with the cold side piping. i'll place the intercooler slightly toward the RHS of the car so that i can use a 90degree coupler to pass through the existing hole under the LHS headlight (after making it a bit larger) and then a 90degree pipe and coupler to get to the compressor outlet. however with the cold side piping, the intercooler outlet basically leads directly towards the foglight. i'll have to remove the bumper and mock things up to get a better idea of things but i might just remove the foglights to make things easier to at least get things running but we'll see what i can figure out.
08-27-2017, 04:49 AM
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Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread
Thinking now that i will just use the intercooler and piping i have already, and run without the foglights just to get me up and running while smoothing things out.
i'll then change the intercooler setup later down the track, running both hot and cold pipes the short way through the oem holes (enlarged) under the headlight areas on each side. this will allow use of the oem foglight mounting brackets, but i'll need to relocate my battery from where it is on the frame rail now.
i'll be putting the NA headers back on this week and switching out the oem map sensor for my 3 bar unit and make sure that's all running sweet before then having the car off the road for a little while until the turbo setup is finished and running.
i'll then change the intercooler setup later down the track, running both hot and cold pipes the short way through the oem holes (enlarged) under the headlight areas on each side. this will allow use of the oem foglight mounting brackets, but i'll need to relocate my battery from where it is on the frame rail now.
i'll be putting the NA headers back on this week and switching out the oem map sensor for my 3 bar unit and make sure that's all running sweet before then having the car off the road for a little while until the turbo setup is finished and running.
09-07-2017, 04:11 AM
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Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread
drove the car a few times last week when the weather was good enough for it.
in an attempt to stop the ongoing small coolant leak i switched out the radiator hoses for mishimoto ones which are a bit tighter than the ebay ones i had on there, still got a slow leak around the thermostat housing so a new oem thermostat gasket is next.
also switched the oem map sensor for the 3 bar which i've been meaning to do for a while, then drove the car a bit more to fix up the minor differences in the fuel maps.
registration on the crx ran out at the start of this week, so i put it up on jackstands in the garage to start working on it. pulled off the front bumper and the headers/exhaust so that i could start on the new custom 3" system.
the idea was to use a 180 degree U bend of 3" to make the downpipe out of, but the radius of the bend wasn't quite sharp enough and would have ran into the bottom of the block a bit due to the way the turbo is angled away from the radiator a bit . because of this i decided to attempt to do it with pie cuts of straight 3" pipe at around 22.5 degrees for each cut. here's the start of it just tacked together
added a few more cuts to it and then used part of the U bend to go the rest of the way. worked out really well, it tucks up really close to the oil pan but there's still enough room for heat wrapping which i plan to do eventually. the welds on here aren't the cleanest, it seems like my cheap gasless mig on the lowest voltage wants to leave blobs of weld, and on the next voltage up just wants to blow holes in the pipe so it looks a bit rough.
here's the rest of the parts to be used. still waiting on a flex pipe which should arrive tomorrow or early next week. at this stage i'm going to make the exhaust with just the resonator shown below in the straight section under the floorpan. if it sounds bad or way too loud then i'll get a muffler for the rear too.
in an attempt to stop the ongoing small coolant leak i switched out the radiator hoses for mishimoto ones which are a bit tighter than the ebay ones i had on there, still got a slow leak around the thermostat housing so a new oem thermostat gasket is next.
also switched the oem map sensor for the 3 bar which i've been meaning to do for a while, then drove the car a bit more to fix up the minor differences in the fuel maps.
registration on the crx ran out at the start of this week, so i put it up on jackstands in the garage to start working on it. pulled off the front bumper and the headers/exhaust so that i could start on the new custom 3" system.
the idea was to use a 180 degree U bend of 3" to make the downpipe out of, but the radius of the bend wasn't quite sharp enough and would have ran into the bottom of the block a bit due to the way the turbo is angled away from the radiator a bit . because of this i decided to attempt to do it with pie cuts of straight 3" pipe at around 22.5 degrees for each cut. here's the start of it just tacked together
added a few more cuts to it and then used part of the U bend to go the rest of the way. worked out really well, it tucks up really close to the oil pan but there's still enough room for heat wrapping which i plan to do eventually. the welds on here aren't the cleanest, it seems like my cheap gasless mig on the lowest voltage wants to leave blobs of weld, and on the next voltage up just wants to blow holes in the pipe so it looks a bit rough.
here's the rest of the parts to be used. still waiting on a flex pipe which should arrive tomorrow or early next week. at this stage i'm going to make the exhaust with just the resonator shown below in the straight section under the floorpan. if it sounds bad or way too loud then i'll get a muffler for the rear too.
09-10-2017, 03:43 AM
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Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread
still working on the exhaust, now i just need to add in the flex pipe and place the hangers.
started looking at the battery relocation this afternoon so that should be done later this week. tomorrow i'll try to make up the intercooler mount brackets and work out what other piping and couplers i need to buy to get this finished
started looking at the battery relocation this afternoon so that should be done later this week. tomorrow i'll try to make up the intercooler mount brackets and work out what other piping and couplers i need to buy to get this finished
09-18-2017, 07:13 AM
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Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread
exhaust is basically finished now. i had to modify the axle bend as seen in the pic in my last post, but it fits nice and high above the lca and swaybar now.
i've just got it ending in a vband flange after the rear axle at the moment, so after i start the car to hear the new system i'll make a decision on whether i'll get a rear muffler or just run more 3" from the vband to exit out the bumper cutout.
from the centre hangers back it tucks up really close to the body and ground clearance is perfect. but i'm kind of wishing i hadnt used the flex pipe, as it's sitting too low to the ground in that area now. i'll raise the coilovers an inch or so, and if it still doesnt have enough clearance then i might get back under there and make some cuts to raise that section up.
made up some intercooler mounting brackets, a few bends and holes in a bit of flat bar and welded them to the lower radiator support area. used a 3" holesaw on the RHS, and a 2.5" holesaw on the LHS of the intercooler for the piping to run through
test fitted the front bumper over the intercooler to double check the position was all good and see what needed to be cut... and it fits pretty much perfect without making any cuts to the bumper at all. it even seems to stop the bumper sagging down under the headlights. i was so stoked this went so smoothly. best of all i'll still be able to run the foglights. oh yeah once that was all done i roughed the surface up and gave it a light coat of satin black to try and hide it.
i've just got it ending in a vband flange after the rear axle at the moment, so after i start the car to hear the new system i'll make a decision on whether i'll get a rear muffler or just run more 3" from the vband to exit out the bumper cutout.
from the centre hangers back it tucks up really close to the body and ground clearance is perfect. but i'm kind of wishing i hadnt used the flex pipe, as it's sitting too low to the ground in that area now. i'll raise the coilovers an inch or so, and if it still doesnt have enough clearance then i might get back under there and make some cuts to raise that section up.
made up some intercooler mounting brackets, a few bends and holes in a bit of flat bar and welded them to the lower radiator support area. used a 3" holesaw on the RHS, and a 2.5" holesaw on the LHS of the intercooler for the piping to run through
test fitted the front bumper over the intercooler to double check the position was all good and see what needed to be cut... and it fits pretty much perfect without making any cuts to the bumper at all. it even seems to stop the bumper sagging down under the headlights. i was so stoked this went so smoothly. best of all i'll still be able to run the foglights. oh yeah once that was all done i roughed the surface up and gave it a light coat of satin black to try and hide it.
09-18-2017, 03:57 PM
#190
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Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread
Hey, just reading thru your thread now for the first time, not sure how I've missed it so far. Looks great!
This is exactly the kind of stuff I'd be doing to mine if I had the time. Maybe someday...
Keep up the good work! I'll continue to follow along
This is exactly the kind of stuff I'd be doing to mine if I had the time. Maybe someday...
Keep up the good work! I'll continue to follow along
09-19-2017, 03:22 AM
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Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread
thanks mate. yeah i've got a lot of spare time at the moment, just not much money. this thing should be seeing boost very soon
09-19-2017, 08:01 PM
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Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread
thanks!
the battery has now been relocated to make way for intercooler piping, and i think all fabrication should be finished up. i've been working on the wastegate and dump pipe over the last couple days.
also just got the oil drain fittings in the mail and it looks like i should be able to make them fit. without any unforeseen setbacks im aiming to have it running next week
the battery has now been relocated to make way for intercooler piping, and i think all fabrication should be finished up. i've been working on the wastegate and dump pipe over the last couple days.
also just got the oil drain fittings in the mail and it looks like i should be able to make them fit. without any unforeseen setbacks im aiming to have it running next week
09-22-2017, 12:43 AM
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Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread
ok so got the battery relocated and wired in again, everything still working which is always good. and i can just barely fit and bolt the spare tyre in still. not that i'll really ever put it back in but you know...
ended up stripping out the rear interior trim while routing the battery cables. i'm still not decided if i want to run a stripped rear or put interior back in after cleaning up all the wiring and paint... i've got both a rear seat and a rear compartment setup that i could put in but not sure what i want yet.
finished up the wastegate runner and dump pipe too. i always knew clearance would be an issue if i wanted a full size radiator but i could make it work if i need to upgrade to a full size in the future. we'll see how temps go over the summer here.
i might eventually recirculate the dump into the exhaust because getting caught with an open dump pipe by the police here is worse than being caught for murder
all cleaned up and ready for coating
spent last night trying to figure out the radiator fan wiring. so if anyone's following this.. since i've owned the car the fan would come on as soon as the key was turned. tried to diagnose the issue and didnt figure much out, thermo switch was good, relay was good, wiring was original from what i could see. so when i installed the hondata i wired in ecu pin A12 to trigger the fan relay on when ECT reaches a certain temp, which worked for a few weeks. then one day the fans came on as soon as the key was turned. whatever, left it like this. then a few weeks later the fans wouldnt come on with the key or when up to temp. so yesterday i installed a new relay only to be triggered by hondata when up to temp, but the trigger wasnt working. as soon as i manually grounded out the relay to the chassis the fans would come on, but pin A12 didnt seem to be grounding. i followed the wire back to the ecu to check for any breaks or whatever but it looked all good, then i tested the ecu pin itself and found it wasnt triggering for some reason. cant be bothered to remove the ecu and open it up, and everything else in the hondata is working so whatever. i ended up wiring the new relay up to a key on power source so now i'm back where i started but at least it works again haha.
ended up stripping out the rear interior trim while routing the battery cables. i'm still not decided if i want to run a stripped rear or put interior back in after cleaning up all the wiring and paint... i've got both a rear seat and a rear compartment setup that i could put in but not sure what i want yet.
finished up the wastegate runner and dump pipe too. i always knew clearance would be an issue if i wanted a full size radiator but i could make it work if i need to upgrade to a full size in the future. we'll see how temps go over the summer here.
i might eventually recirculate the dump into the exhaust because getting caught with an open dump pipe by the police here is worse than being caught for murder
all cleaned up and ready for coating
spent last night trying to figure out the radiator fan wiring. so if anyone's following this.. since i've owned the car the fan would come on as soon as the key was turned. tried to diagnose the issue and didnt figure much out, thermo switch was good, relay was good, wiring was original from what i could see. so when i installed the hondata i wired in ecu pin A12 to trigger the fan relay on when ECT reaches a certain temp, which worked for a few weeks. then one day the fans came on as soon as the key was turned. whatever, left it like this. then a few weeks later the fans wouldnt come on with the key or when up to temp. so yesterday i installed a new relay only to be triggered by hondata when up to temp, but the trigger wasnt working. as soon as i manually grounded out the relay to the chassis the fans would come on, but pin A12 didnt seem to be grounding. i followed the wire back to the ecu to check for any breaks or whatever but it looked all good, then i tested the ecu pin itself and found it wasnt triggering for some reason. cant be bothered to remove the ecu and open it up, and everything else in the hondata is working so whatever. i ended up wiring the new relay up to a key on power source so now i'm back where i started but at least it works again haha.
09-22-2017, 01:42 AM
#196
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Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread
Nice work man! Makes me wish I could weld.
As for the radiator, I've been running a full rad and it is right up against the turbo. I can tell you that having everything that congested, and having the turbo right up against the rad defeats it's purpose. After highway driving mine gets completely heat soaked and ECT starts to climb. I plan on switching to a better half rad and puller fan to get more air flow, less heat from exhaust.
You can always wire the cooling fans to a toggle switch. I'm guessing mine had the same issue, so the previous owner did this. It's not annoying once you get used to it, I just switch em on when I'm city driving and warmed up, and off when on the highway.
Running the dump back into the exhaust is not a bad idea. Open dump can be loud af.
Looking good
As for the radiator, I've been running a full rad and it is right up against the turbo. I can tell you that having everything that congested, and having the turbo right up against the rad defeats it's purpose. After highway driving mine gets completely heat soaked and ECT starts to climb. I plan on switching to a better half rad and puller fan to get more air flow, less heat from exhaust.
You can always wire the cooling fans to a toggle switch. I'm guessing mine had the same issue, so the previous owner did this. It's not annoying once you get used to it, I just switch em on when I'm city driving and warmed up, and off when on the highway.
Running the dump back into the exhaust is not a bad idea. Open dump can be loud af.
Looking good
09-22-2017, 05:59 PM
#197
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Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread
Nice work man! Makes me wish I could weld.
As for the radiator, I've been running a full rad and it is right up against the turbo. I can tell you that having everything that congested, and having the turbo right up against the rad defeats it's purpose. After highway driving mine gets completely heat soaked and ECT starts to climb. I plan on switching to a better half rad and puller fan to get more air flow, less heat from exhaust.
You can always wire the cooling fans to a toggle switch. I'm guessing mine had the same issue, so the previous owner did this. It's not annoying once you get used to it, I just switch em on when I'm city driving and warmed up, and off when on the highway.
Running the dump back into the exhaust is not a bad idea. Open dump can be loud af.
Looking good
As for the radiator, I've been running a full rad and it is right up against the turbo. I can tell you that having everything that congested, and having the turbo right up against the rad defeats it's purpose. After highway driving mine gets completely heat soaked and ECT starts to climb. I plan on switching to a better half rad and puller fan to get more air flow, less heat from exhaust.
You can always wire the cooling fans to a toggle switch. I'm guessing mine had the same issue, so the previous owner did this. It's not annoying once you get used to it, I just switch em on when I'm city driving and warmed up, and off when on the highway.
Running the dump back into the exhaust is not a bad idea. Open dump can be loud af.
Looking good
good point about the radiator. if i had a full size (without tucking it under the t-bar) then im not sure i could fit another cooling fan anyway. i think if i have cooling problems i'll first try getting a higher rated fan and see how that goes.
09-24-2017, 06:52 AM
#198
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Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread
got everything painted in flame-proof ceramic, hoping to both rust proof all the mild steel bits as well as contain heat a little bit. i'm thinking about heat wrapping things too but i'll see if it's needed or not down the track.
everything finally installed. the manifold and turbo are torqued down, everything else is only loosely fitted. I might have to remove the CHRA and the compressor to install the oil drain line and clock everything right for the charge piping to fit nicely, and i will be removing the downpipe again so i can drop the oil pan to install the return fitting. i wish there was a cleaner way to route the oil feed line.. i havent fitted it up to the oil sandwich plate yet so i might still reroute it yet.
just waiting on the 10an line and a 90 degree coupler and everything should be ready to go.
everything finally installed. the manifold and turbo are torqued down, everything else is only loosely fitted. I might have to remove the CHRA and the compressor to install the oil drain line and clock everything right for the charge piping to fit nicely, and i will be removing the downpipe again so i can drop the oil pan to install the return fitting. i wish there was a cleaner way to route the oil feed line.. i havent fitted it up to the oil sandwich plate yet so i might still reroute it yet.
just waiting on the 10an line and a 90 degree coupler and everything should be ready to go.
09-27-2017, 05:33 AM
#200
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Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread
thanks mate
well today i got everything buttoned up and got the crx into boost for the first time!
yesterday i removed the oil pan to drill the hole for the oil return fitting. there's not much space for fittings and lines between the chra and the oil pan but i managed to fit the -10an fittings and a really tiny section of braided hose down there. also connected the oil feed line to the sandwich plate
with that done i worked on fitting the hot side intercooler piping and couplers which were also pretty tough to squeeze in. i ended up clocking the compressor a little differently so that the outlet points slightly more towards the front of the car than in the pics in previous posts.
i was able to reuse my 3" air filter straight onto the compressor inlet, but i had to dent it in a little bit to clear the nipple on the outlet that's used as a pressure reference for the wastegate.
tightened down all the bolts and clamps and then refilled the oil before starting it up and checking for leaks, and adjusting the maps slightly at idle.
as per the instructions on the ceramic coat paint i had to idle the car for 10 minutes and let cool for 10, then idle for 20 and cool for 20, then drive for 30 and then let fully cool before the coating is cured.
i setup the boost tables to retard timing by 0.75 degrees per psi, and after the initial ceramic curing process i had a little drive around and datalogged on the laptop while keeping an eye on temps and afrs, and hit 7 psi of boost (7 psi wastegate spring). the power felt very gradual and stable, and my fuel maps were already within 10% of targeted values that i had setup in smanager.
ok so the exhaust is really loud, not sure if it's exaggerated because at the moment it just dumps after the rear axle and the sound is reverberating between the ground and the car or what, so i'll definitely be making up a rear pipe to cross over to the bumper cutout, and then if that's still too loud i'll look at adding a muffler to that pipe. with that said it does make some nice popping and crackling sounds under deceleration. and i'm fine with the open dump pipe, sounds alright i think.
I didnt really take any pictures of this final process stuff because i just wanted to get it finished and running, so if anyone wants to see specific pictures let me know. i'll try to get some up in the next few days anyway
well today i got everything buttoned up and got the crx into boost for the first time!
yesterday i removed the oil pan to drill the hole for the oil return fitting. there's not much space for fittings and lines between the chra and the oil pan but i managed to fit the -10an fittings and a really tiny section of braided hose down there. also connected the oil feed line to the sandwich plate
with that done i worked on fitting the hot side intercooler piping and couplers which were also pretty tough to squeeze in. i ended up clocking the compressor a little differently so that the outlet points slightly more towards the front of the car than in the pics in previous posts.
i was able to reuse my 3" air filter straight onto the compressor inlet, but i had to dent it in a little bit to clear the nipple on the outlet that's used as a pressure reference for the wastegate.
tightened down all the bolts and clamps and then refilled the oil before starting it up and checking for leaks, and adjusting the maps slightly at idle.
as per the instructions on the ceramic coat paint i had to idle the car for 10 minutes and let cool for 10, then idle for 20 and cool for 20, then drive for 30 and then let fully cool before the coating is cured.
i setup the boost tables to retard timing by 0.75 degrees per psi, and after the initial ceramic curing process i had a little drive around and datalogged on the laptop while keeping an eye on temps and afrs, and hit 7 psi of boost (7 psi wastegate spring). the power felt very gradual and stable, and my fuel maps were already within 10% of targeted values that i had setup in smanager.
ok so the exhaust is really loud, not sure if it's exaggerated because at the moment it just dumps after the rear axle and the sound is reverberating between the ground and the car or what, so i'll definitely be making up a rear pipe to cross over to the bumper cutout, and then if that's still too loud i'll look at adding a muffler to that pipe. with that said it does make some nice popping and crackling sounds under deceleration. and i'm fine with the open dump pipe, sounds alright i think.
I didnt really take any pictures of this final process stuff because i just wanted to get it finished and running, so if anyone wants to see specific pictures let me know. i'll try to get some up in the next few days anyway