Josip.

This is really good work you're doing.
Love these kind of builds.

Btw, can you tell me what kind of tool do you use when doing harness?

dylspil

​​​​​​
thanks guys, it's good to get a bit of feedback as it's all coming together now.

for the wiring harness i just used basic gear and the amphenol connectors. everything was bought from various places online.
wire cutters/strippers, soldering iron and solder, a range of heat shrink sizes for all solder joints and junction points in the harness, a range of braided sleeve sizes to cover the loom, printed labels for the connectors, and a lot of spare time.
if i were to give any advice i would say make sure you document your wiring connectors very well. when cutting and organising your harness use plenty of labels to make sure you dont confuse any wires. double check you know where each wire comes from and goes to before labelling/cutting/extending/soldering. because i've done the obd0-1 conversion and tucked quick disconnect harness at the same time i spent a fair bit of time documenting what wire from the old connector goes to what pin on the new connector etc. i still dont know if it works yet but if it doesnt then i should have all the info i need to track down the issue.

here's some screens of my documentation.
oem obd0 ecu connector


my obd0-1 ecu connector conversion mapped out


distributor conversion


amphenol wiring mapped out

Josip.

Shiat, this is bunch of things to do. Nice job.

I plan to buy some used harness for power windows for my 6 gen Civic, and then make a new one harness, sleeved too. So I like what I'm seeing in your topic.

dylspil

alright so i messed up because i'm a ********. can't fit the front calipers because i got them from a BB2 prelude when i should have got some from a BB4/6 prelude. going to try to get to a wrecker this week so fingers crossed they have some 17CL15VN calipers one on of the preludes or early crvs there if they havent been taken already.

since i wasnt able to install the front brakes and bleed the whole system i worked on a bunch of little things.
started by doing an "alignment". i'll obviously get it aligned properly later on but i needed to do this because the front wheels had like 20mm toe in from when i rebuilt the steering rack and put on new inner and outer tie rods without measuring them against the old ones properly. i centered the steering rack and adjusted the outer rods as necessary and it's looking a lot closer now. front and rear camber still need a bit of fine tuning.
with that done i torqued all the front suspension components. what's the deal with setting the traction bar radius rod length? at the moment i just have them shortened as far as they go because that's how they wanted to go in without me forcing the lower control arms anywhere.

installed the climate control/heater stuff so that i could work out the placement of the fusebox. with that stuff put in i kind of got sidetracked and sanded down some surface rust on the interior floorpan from when i remove the sound deadening, vacuumed the area and wiped it all down before spraying some black over all the bare metal. ended up doing basically the entire floor pan except for the raised centre section and the sides because i didnt want to spray over the fuel and brake lines and stuff.

while that was drying i installed the radiator overflow bottle, t-bar, and the battery. still need to do battery cables

i'll get some pics when the fumes clear out tomorrow

dylspil

still havent got the calipers, though i have tracked down a few accords and crvs at wreckers that i will visit this weekend.

ended up pulling the heater unit back out of the car because it turns out i shaved the heater valve bracket off the firewall when i was prepping to paint the engine bay... so i deleted the one bracket i needed, and kept the stock fuel filter bracket which i dont need. nice work me
so anyway i had to drill out a new hole to mount a new bracket to the firewall in the exact location of the old oem bracket so i could install the heater valve. got that done this afternoon and reinstalled the heater unit, connected the heater hoses in the engine bay and connected up the valve cable through the firewall so now i can forget about all that stuff.

while i was doing metal work i made up a bracket to mount the new generic washer bottle. should be pretty clean as long as it clears everything



and started working on repairing the climate control that fell apart when i removed it during disassembly of the car. still need to trim a few areas of the face plate to make it clear the fan slider and temperature latch but it should be a good fit once it's done. also going to make up a kind of frame support for it to, so it has a bracket running along the underside of the unit and up the sides to try and hold it all together



got the engine harness installed for the last time, just needs to be secured at a few places along the way now. finalised all the larger gauge wiring coming from the engine bay into the cabin and got the modified grommet installed around them. i'm leaving the wiring for the ecu and amphenol plug unsheathed for the moment just in case i have to go fault finding when trying to get the car running soon, but i'll fix that later down the track. should be enough room to fit the fusebox underneath the heater unit so i'm happy with that.


the fresh paint on the floorpan had a reaction with the areas i'd seam sealed, weird because the sealer was laid like a year ago so was definitely dry, and none of the sealer in the engine bay had any issues being painted over at all. the paint on the sealer was really sticky and not drying after a whole day so i wiped those spots down with thinners and primed over the top of the sealer and then sprayed black again. seems alright now.
installed the hub and quick release too - probably the only thing that hasnt caused issues with this car in the last week

feck

Quality work and attention to detail as always.

dylspil

cheers mate.

spent a bit of time this week looking around for people parting out their cars that would have the 17CL15VN calipers and got one guy who said he wouldnt take less than $200 for the pair from a CRV so i kept looking.
picked out a replacement set of calipers from a HRV at the wrecker today for $50, as well as a replacement hood seal and a couple different oem oil caps. decided to test fit the calipers this time instead of wasting time cleaning up and painting them before realising they dont clear the rotors... these ones have this cool feature where they actually fit. checked caliper-wheel clearance too, it's really close but at least i dont have to get new wheels just to run them.
cleaned them up and painted them this afternoon, should get around to fitting them tomorrow.

dylspil

forgot to post a pic of my diy tucked radiator overflow bottle from an aluminium bottle, to replace the stained and gross oem bottle.


test fitting of the new brake setup


cleaned up, painted, then installed the next day.



bled the master cylinder by looping the output lines back into the reservoir, then gravity bled the whole system and threw the wheels back on and took it off the jack stands.


working on interior and wiring now. need to get some new ring terminals for the fusebox connections and engine grounds before i can see if it's all working

feck

I remain beyond impressed with the quality of your build. Then again Aussies are a nation of really full on petrolheads so not so shocking.

dylspil

thanks mate, i think you're my biggest fan haha

dylspil

here's the 2 oil caps i picked up last week. I think i'll put on the one with white writing once i've cleaned it up a bit


sanded back and buffed the headlights to get rid of the yellow haze on them and installed them loosely to be aligned properly later on



put most of the dash back in. man it makes a huge difference, i'm so used to nothing being in there and just seeing wires everywhere. i ended up just sitting in there on the floor for a few minutes looking around thinking about the other bits and pieces that need to be done before i can drive it again.


since taking the picture above i've connected the new positive battery terminal and tidied and secured all the loose wiring running through the engine bay and into the cabin, and mounted the fusebox behind the centre console, under the heater unit. it's a nice fit in there, still enough room to open the fusebox lid too. cut the battery to fusebox wire to length and installed a ring terminal, so now the fusebox has its battery and alternator connections.

i've just about finished up repairing the climate control unit. the frame i made to support it has been epoxied in place, and i've just painted the face plate so i'll epoxy that on tomorrow.

this weekend i plan to install the climate control unit, lengthen and connect the remaining fusebox wiring, make up all the engine bay ground wires, and maybe even turn the key to see if the hondata works. should be interesting

dylspil

sprayed the climate control repair plate with some satin black and epoxied it on, got around to putting it in the car yesterday. it feels nice and sturdy now with no flex when moving the fan control slider thing so lets hope it holds up over time.
also test fitted the gauges so i could plan out the wiring for them.


as for the rest of the work i planned to do this weekend i only really got the fusebox wiring finished.
i'll try to get on to the engine grounds and gauge wiring tomorrow, but i need to get a new laptop charger before i can think about doing anything with the hondata because mine's completely dead.
need to remember to put some air in the tyres, as well as bring some fuel home to put in it too

dylspil

on sunday i planned to complete the gauge wiring but then ended up painting the boost gauge housing black to match it with the others, so i couldnt do any wires until it had dried.
on monday i made up the battery and engine grounds and finished wiring connectors to the gauges to make them easy to install/uninstall for the future. tapped into cabin fusebox wiring for power and dimming control for the gauges, and grounded them through a dash reinforcement bar to chassis bolt under the dash.
while i was doing the gauges i wired in the cigarette lighter since that had never worked since i've owned the car because the wires from it just didnt plug into anything at all. i tapped into power and ground coming from the old cd player plug that isnt being used anymore and it's working fine now.

with all this done i connected up the battery finally. pretty happy that the alarm/immobiliser didnt have any issues with this, and so far it looks like all my rewiring is working without any problems at all. actually i think the immobiliser saved my *** because as i was testing the accessories by turning the ignition key position i turned it too far which should have cranked the engine (which doesnt have any oil in it yet), but instead the immobiliser just clicked



i think i'll wire in a dimmer switch for the boost gauge though, as it doesnt have any wire to splice into the driving lights so it dims like the innovate gauges do.

xav2

Nice write up brother..
i wish i woulda did a write up on my crx in it's b16 days��
Now that my k is almost out of the machine shop
maybe I will��

dylspil

sounds good man, let use know if you do and i'll definitely check it out

dylspil

got a bunch of things done over the last few days, starting with calibrating the TPS. i wasnt able to get the WOT voltage to 4.5 volts - lowest i could manage was 4.6 volts. from what i've read this shouldnt be an issue, can anyone confirm? i got the closed throttle voltage to exactly 0.5 volts, so 0.5 closed and 4.6 open.

made up the braided -an lines for the catch can and installed it, so now the engine is completely sealed up.



filled the engine with 10w30 mineral oil for run in, and the gearbox with some penrite synchro gear oil. i've been doing a bit of reading about what gearbox oils to use and pretty much got nowhere because everyone has a different opinion and they all say their way works great so i guess i'll see how this oil goes.
removed spark plugs and wires, disconnected distributor, injector plugs and fuel pump plug and cranked the car over a few times without any problems. i'll do this again once i've got the oil pressure/temp gauge calibrated just to double check it's all good.

took all 4 wheels to the petrol station to pump them up and get some fuel at the same time, got back home and put wheels back on before dropping the car back on the ground, then put the fresh fuel in the crx so i could test out the new fuel pump. plugged the pump wiring connector back in and turned the key to prime the system.... pump came on and sounded healthy but no fuel pressure showing at the gauge on the fuel rail. tried a few times but still no fuel pressure. doing some reading online i saw that with EFs the standard walbro fuel sock dont dip low enough to pick up fuel from the bottom of the tank, but i'd just put 20L of petrol in it so i didnt think that would be the issue. also read that a bunch of people had installed their 255s to find that the pump wiring polarity was the opposite from what it was marked as, so their pumps were trying to push fuel into the tank instead of pull it out. decided i'd have to drop the fuel tank again so i gave up for the night.
got back to it yesterday, put the car back on jack stands and dropped the rear of the fuel tank down, tried to prime the fuel system again seeing as the fuel would all be sitting at the rear of the tank where the pump is now. still no fuel pressure. disconnected the lines and pulled the pump out, double checked my wiring to make sure nothing was loose or connected to the wrong place and it all looked perfect. decided to try the oem pump fuel sock on it, then dropped it back in the tank loosely. connected the lines up again and turned the key to find fuel pressure at the rail now!


i was pretty happy i didnt have to redo any wiring on the pump. started checking for any leaks and the engine bay looked all sealed up but i could smell fuel somewhere so i went back to the tank to find fuel on the ground under the lines to/from the pump. set up my phone to film the area while i went and primed the pump again. checked the video to see fuel pissing out the soft return line between the chassis and the hard line going back into the pump. took it off to find this


replaced it with a spare length of fuel hose i had from when i made the return line coming off the fpr at the fuel rail, tested the system again and everything looks all sealed up now. lifted the tank back up and bolted everything down before putting the car back on the ground again.

still waiting on my new laptop charger and serial-usb adapter so i can plug in the hondata and configure the gauges, hopefully get them monday or tuesday

Josip.

You got way more then just one fan buddy. :D

I don't know what to say to your build. I'm just watching and admiring.

Keep up the good work. :D

feck

I hear that. While there can be some broad agreement with engine oil, gearbox oil seems to be more up in air. It's why I just went for the Honda MTF stuff.

Same here.

Josip.

I think you can't go wrong with MTF from Honda.

AZCRXSI

I was always under the idea that conventional oil works best for the older gearboxes.

Honda MTF is for the newer designed gearboxes.

But like everyone has stated, ongoing conversation.

Check your manual, that seems to be the deciding factor... if or when it mentions MTF, go that route. Otherwise stick with the correct oil type.

wxman94ej1

Love all the details you've shared here and the attention to detail. Lots of ideas haha.

What paint did you use on the RTA? Rattle can or gun? Looking at doing this to my RTA soon.

Great build!

dylspil

thanks a lot guys, good to see people following along.
from memory this time i think i used some penrite 75w80 or 75w85 with additives for synchros that i bought a decent while ago on sale, so we'll see how it holds up. last time i had the gearbox oil changed a few years ago it had some castrol gear oil put into it and that made shifting drastically better. i didnt worry too much about what i put in it this time because i'll be upgrading to a heavier clutch when i do the turbo build anyway, and maybe replacing synchros if they get worse before then so i'll probably try honda mtf when the time comes so then i'll be able to compare experiences

dylspil

thanks, hope my thread can be useful to some others like yourself. i just did the RTAs with some rattle can enamel gloss black. this stuff sets pretty tough but takes a little while to cure properly. im not expecting it to hold up like a powdercoat would but i couldnt have put them back in as dirty as they were before

dylspil

got the drivers side wiring tucked and all loomed up a few days ago. ran out of 3mm heat shrink so the i need to pick up some more before i can redo the passenger side the same way.


filled the radiator with coolant but ran out... so i'll need to go get some more tomorrow. here's the other fluids i used as well


after filling the radiator i checked for leaks and saw a small and a big puddle of coolant on the ground under the intake manifold area. traced the small one to the little pipe coming from the big water pipe on the back of the block, reached in there and the clamp moved by hand so i pushed the hose a bit further onto the pipe and moved the clamp right up to the end of the hose. the bigger leak was coming from the upper hose connecting to the heater core at the firewall. this clamp already seemed tight but it was leaking pretty steadily, so i moved the hose around a bit and pushed the clamp back closer to where the pipe lip was and both leaks have seemed to stop but i dont know if it's just because the coolant level dropped due to the leaks so i'll find out when i put more coolant in it tomorrow.

calibrated the wideband and connected to Smanager for the first time. started with a jdm p30 b16a map, adjusted for the bosch ev14 750cc injectors, omnipower 3 bar map sensor, calibrated the TPS values and wideband afr-voltage range.


i had to disable the knock sensor and vtec spool sensor in Smanager because i was getting errors for them.. i thought these would be ok since i wired them from the ef8's pw0 ecu through the obd0-1 conversion harness and into the p06+s300v3 ecu i'm using now? has anyone got any idea why this might be?

if i can be sure the coolant leaks are fixed then i should be set to try and start the engine up this weekend

dylspil

dont think im going to get it started this weekend.
checked under the car this morning to see if i had fixed the leaks and it all looked good, but i still wasnt sure if that was just because the coolant level had dropped. went out to pick up some more coolant and put it in when i got home (only took a little bit more than the 5L that was put in yesterday) and had a look/feel around and it seems like the 2 leaks i had spotted yesterday have stopped, but now i can see a small very slow leak coming from the rear of the thermostat housing where it meets the water pipe so im guessing the o-ring isnt doing the job. not that big of a deal but just annoying since it was a new one and now i have to pull it out to see what's going wrong. i've ordered 2 new water pipe o-rings so i wont bother doing anything with that until i get the new ones.

even with the slow coolant drip i wanted to try and start it up so primed the fuel pump and adjusted the pressure to 43psi since the deadtime specifications my injectors came with had given values at 43psi. adjusted the fuel pressure without any problem, then started cranking the engine with the plugs pulled, injectors unplugged, and the distributor and plug wires disconnected to build some oil pressure. next thing i see fuel squirting badly from the upper o-ring of injector 2 so i shut it off and check it out, looked to be seated the same as all the other injector o-rings which arent leaking. again all these are new o-rings.

im done for tonight after that. tomorrow i might take the fuel rail off and try to switch injector 2 with one of the others to see if it's injector 2, or that hole on the fuel rail that has the problem