blasterman87

ive blocked off both the iacv and fitv on my b16 hatch using aluminum between the valves and the tb, havnt unplugged them just blocked them off. had to adjust my idle up some but other than that ive seen no ill effects. how can i do away with the wiring for these without throwing a code??

blasterman87

anyone got any input on this? ive been running it like this for about 3 months, in weather from freezing to around 80 and it starts and runs smooth all the time

4g4dcruisin

Why?

imnike9000

I believe any engine management program can delete them.

blasterman87

basically just less things to mess with, esp all the idle problems they cause.

Clint in KY

I am considering blocking off my IACV on my 90 Civic HB, since I done everything else to get rid of the surging idle. I've cleaned it, replaced the O-Ring gasket, and even bled the cooling system since I got very little anti-freeze out of it when I pulled the valve to clean it. I know the valve works because I unplugged it and the idle settled right down. Of course it threw a "Check Engine" light at me. The surge got better after the gasket & cooling system fix but is still there. It is a pain because I have to time giving it throttle to move away from a stop. If I catch it on a dip the engine bogs. Off idle it runs great.

I asked on another board if anyone had done this and got no replies. I think I will cut a plate and try it and report back.

Clint in Kentucky

blasterman87

all i did was put the aluminum between the iacv and the im. i left it plugged in normally. the only thing that ive found is when its cold at start up it idles a little low (around 5k) but it doesnt stall and after it warms up it idles normal

Clint in KY

Do you mean 500 RPM? My stock D15B1 with 244,000 miles on it would litter the garage with internal parts at 5K when it was cold.

blasterman87

lol yeah i mean 500

HECTIC

Ive done this before and ran it for over 2 years with no issues.. seemed to take just a bit longer to warm up on colder days but otherwise no issues and no codes...

blasterman87

is there a way to take them off without throwing codes? i wanna get rid of the wires... could i loop the wires and not cause a code?

scottmog

exactly, most likely just loop the wires at the base.

blasterman87

thats what i was thinking, ill have to try it

Wheels 2

Back from the dead.Can you make an aluminum plate that blocks off the port where the fitv is?Then just get a longer hose that goes from the intake manifold flange to the iacv.Because i was looking at a spoon throttle body for a b18c and it looks like it just deletes the fitv and just has a connector that connects the old two hoses that use to run to the fitv.

Wheels 2

nobody?????

pjschmitt

TO delete anything from the normal system, you will need the computer programming to be modified. If you are running a P28 with a chip that is programmed, then you can have it modified to ignore whatever you want like the IACV. The Fitv has no sensor or electronics.

You can do the same with O2 sensor and EGR and Purge solenoid etc...

Hope this helps anyone still seeking these answers.

If you have anything to contribute to old threads, go ahead and do it because lots of them are unsolved and the other member continue to say search. So when we are searching these threads, it is still open for more comments and replies. Many times these threads are hard to find but still offer great info.

Red

Chuckusan

Okay, I have had my IACV, TPS, Intake replaced, full tune up, new ecu, chipped, ....correct me if I am wrong here, but you mean I can call up the company that produced my chip for my P28 and have them add an IACV delete, and that may omit the surging issue? Dear lord, that would be so awesome!

Chuck

90efzc

According to what they are saying, yes.

Chuckusan

Awesome. I am calling up 'Speed Inovations' and get them to reproduce my chip. I had the o2 delete, 9200 red line and fuel shut off, 2 step launch, and adjusted the fuel curve to help out with my bolt ons. I think they are going to get tired of me coming at them for a new chip every couple of weeks though.

Thank you guys. I will let you know if that fixes my problem!

Chuck

jtanguay

Hey guys. Sorry to dig up an old thread but I'd like to add in my 2 cents.

I have a 98 honda odyssey with the F23A engine and the IACV seems to have gone bad. It will not actuate whatsoever. I've even tried another one (no way of testing though not sure if it worked either) and it still doesn't work.

So I'm not going to throw more cash at it I'll just block it off too. When the engine is fully warmed up it will idle at 500 pretty well. This is with the same throttle position. Obviously on cold startup it dies.

I installed an msd style ignition system (cheap from procomp) with the 6AL unit and the 50kv coil and I can say that it actually fires up faster and will hold idle a bit better with less throttle. I did another experiment and increased the spark gap double and i barely had to press the throttle to keep the engine idling. Just thought I'd add that in. Oh I went a little nuts and increased the spark gap to almost 3mm and it didn't like it very much. But I'm in the midst of putting everything back together and installed the alternator at the same time. So that might have something to do with it (don't know if the alternator is good either...)

Now onto deleting the IACV without throwing a code... Even though mine doesn't work, it won't throw a code (gee how lovely... would've saved me countless hours and money if it did!!!) so I'd say just leave it plugged in. Or what you could do is either hook up a coil to some of the leads or a big enough resistor so the computer thinks its hooked up (if its open loop the computer will know)

Getting the ecu programmed just to get rid of the computer code for the IACV sounds a bit much...

BroTucker

I've got a '90 hatch with a ZC swap with a bad idle surge. I've replaced the IACV, and tightened the FITV with no improvement. I've toyed with blocking the holes in the TB, and when both are blocked the idle is perfect. Are there any long term disadvantages to blocking them both off? Would it throw codes and prevent me from passing inspection? Would getting a chip with an IACV delete solve the problem?

Tyler Dirden

iTrader: (3)

A little know issue with this idle surge can be traced to the diaphragm valve on the end of the intake (drivers side). It usually has 4, 10mm bolts, a system ground and two vacuum lines going to it. When the diaphragm is punctured or leaking, a constant high or suging idle will persist. I found one at a salvage yard for $10. and it fixed it right up.
PS. I had already cleaned and checked both of the other valves with no change.

99teggsr

I think jtanguay has the right idea. If you get your multimeter and measure the resistance of the IACV coil and find a resistor that matches those ohms and put it between the two leads. I dont think the ECU could tell the difference. My idle issue has been fixed (for now, when its 90 degrees out it may not) otherwise I would try the IACV delete.

Trashcar101

So I've got a b18a1....in a 88 civic I dont have the iacv plug at all like it's missing from the harness is it easier just to delete it...and if so is it easy as just blocking it off???