Moog_enep3

91 civic hatch std
p06 obd1 ecu - obd1/0bd0 conversion harness, virgin ecu - passed K-test
monotech conversion harness
O'Reilly TD-41 distributor (I didn't get one with the motor)

everything I've tested has been with a multimeter.

Thermostat ground is good.
Fuses under dash and engine bay are good.
Harness has continuity for a21/a22 and a26, but not 10 volts as the service manual states, it says about .5v - measured at the wire side of the ECU A connector.
Switching signal is present under crank from the ICM/Ignitor.
Resistance is good at the terminals A-B (.8 ohms at 70 degrees) and secondary coil is is the 17k Ohms range @ 70 degrees.
ECU internally looks good, no burnt components from what I could see, caps are not popped and transistors are looking good, no dust or burning on the board at all, looks factory fresh.
Both ICM and Coil are getting battery voltage

When I first turn the key on, verified by timing light and grounding plug to head with a plug wire in the coil, there is a single spark, but under cranking there is no spark.

I had an Amazon dizzy in there at first and on the first test drive the car started out fine, and started misfiring and eventually just died and I had to get towed home. so at the least I know it worked. So I went to O'Reilly and got one, didn't work, didn't try to diagnose it, just warrantied it and now this one doesn't work.

According to Part 4 -How to Test the Igniter, Ignition Coil Accord, Civic, CRV, and Odyssey the Coil is bad because I'm getting signal switching but no spark (this also implies the ECU is in fact sending a triggering signal), but, according to the service manual on page 23-100 step 4 says WHT/BLU should have battery voltage but I only have about 7. It says to check Coil or the wire between ICM and Coil, which is fine. This wire and terminal is the signalling circuit, it sounds to me like the ICM is bad, providing less than battery voltage although giving a signal, but everything else says Coil is bad.

Anyone else have a take on it? Both are bad? one or the other? I would go and grab the ICM or coil from the store but I dont want to if its not bad. The dizzy has a lifetime warranty so i dont want to have to keep trading them out until i get one that works, its just too inconvenient.

http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=18953&highlight= also says coil is bad. maybe i should get a new coil...

Moog_enep3

i just want some reassurance/guidance from others experience.

Moog_enep3

looking through some videos it looks like the single spark is from the voltage detected at the (-) of the coil getting shorted (which is what its supposed to do) but the coil is failing after that to produce spark during crank. coil it is.

Update: they had me try a td42, which obviously didn't work because thats a zc vtec dizzy, so i got another whole td41 and still nothing.

I'm just going to take it back and get a core and whatever from Honda, this is ridiculous. 4/5 brand new distributors and none work except one for 10 miles.

Moog_enep3

brand new dizzy from honda. nothing.

im lost guys.

Moog_enep3

1v at A21 to ground.

-Replace Ignitor unit. check
-Repair open or short in YEL/GRN wire between Ignitor unit and ECU (A21 or A22).

any hints or ideas?

Moog_enep3

ecu was bad, thanks guys.