Efluis

I recently did an mpfi swap on my 1988 civic with a d15b. Car starts up and idles good I drove it once and it did great. When it came time to test drive it again , the car started choking when I gave it gas. Ever since then the car has progressively gotten worse once the car is warmed up. Once it is warmed up it misfires at idle , chokes but doesnt die. I try to drive it out of the driveway but when given gas it stalls but wont die. I have checkes the tps sensor and I have .28 volts with a closed throttle and at wot I have 4.3 volts. Any ideas or point in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Ive tried advancing and regarding timing , ive tried moving vaccum lines around , ive messed with the idle screw.

Efluis

Ive let the car idle for about 10 to 15 minutes and no check engine lights

DaX

iTrader: (1)

It kind of sounds like an injector is stuck open. Pull your plugs and see if any of them are soaked with fuel.

Efluis

I took out the fuel rail with all the injectors put power to the key ,put power to the fuel pump and no injector came on . is this a reasonable way to test it ?

Efluis

I took out the fuel rail with all the injectors put power to the key ,put power to the fuel pump and no injector came on . is this a reasonable way to test it ?

Efluis

I pulled the spark plugs and none of them covered in gas

Efluis

When I unhooked the line for the fuel pressure regulator and the car idled a lot smoother and my spark plugs were blackened

scelestus

Your TPS should read .5 closed and 4.5 open. If you're .2 low across the whole range the car isn't going to run correctly. Stop checking other crap and fix that first.

Efluis

I messed with the tps and I have the .5 volts and they gradually increase to the 4.5 volts at WOT

scelestus

Ah. Have you done anything else that you forgot to mention?

What CELs do you have? What ECU are you using?

Efluis

No check engine light , I am using a pm6.ive switched fuel pumps from another working ef I had. While the car is in neutral the car revs amd idles smooth. But once the car is warmed up and put into gear the cars idle drops and starts to bog when I give the car gas

OPsiCivic

interesting.. if you really think about all the d-series swaps.. usally op to the vtec possibilities.. usually these issues are smog related.

to fix these usally a complete haul is required.

If you are planning to up the power.. then disregard these small tinks.

Just to internal.. cylinders. rockers. pully. and avoid and evage.. and diagnostic these things along the way.

If you are jumping to vtec. than these issues will not allow you anyhting.

In all serious. just the leaks.. check for fluids. make sure idle is correct. check engine light.

furthermore.. more issues will always arise between the time of purchase and future plans.

Simply go to the car shop and get it checked.

Check the head gasket. you will need to remove the head and shave the top of both sides and replace with new.

This should usually fix most of all problems.

Usually from age.. or the 10-20yr. Japanese promise.

If you are loosing vaccum.. and w/o check engine light.. i suggest checking interconnectivity between hose to hose.

After this.. i would check the ECU for codes again.

Then continue to check oil pressure while checking the oil level.




This should solve most of your problems to have it run more than 5 seconds.




If not a stable idle.. then i would check fuel.. make sure there is sufficient fuel going to the motor.

Check exhaust for visual clues.

if you are unable ti identify the fluids. recheck the fluid levels in each container.

You want to max out all fluids then recheck for leaks.




If you lose idle again.. make sure you have the right oil. usually 10w for most b-series

(oil filter)

usually running problems are associated with age and modifications of the motor.

If it doesn't start at all. its usually an ecu problem.

usually incompatible ecu.. not the obd0-II or any other issue.




The same ecu will still throw codes however its just it would have correct idle.




If you magically get it running. check again for exhaust color. Look beneath the car for oil. make sure the radiator is running.




Last but not least.......a compression test. go C5

Kassim Leonard

What's compression like.
Dont forget to unplug dizzy loom before doing it or you will fry the internals (learnt the hard way)

Efluis

I messed with it and have got the .5v at closed throttle and it gradually increased to the 4.5v at wot but it still continued to do the same

Efluis

Could a tps sensor be defective even though it still gives off the correct readings ?

Efluis

When checking the tps sensor , can I splice that wire or do I have to back probe it?? Ive replaced fuel pump, and fuel filter and changed the fpr. I recently did an mpfi swap ,I did purchase the distributor from eBay , when I was done the car gave me 2 or 3 good pulls then it started to become problematic. On a cold start the car idles great and revs great but once i put into gear and go up and down my driveway 2 or 3 tines the car starts to stall and bog when my foot is in the gas amd it does sometime backfire from the throttle body and when my foot comes off the cars idle is no longer good . it stalls and bogs but doesnt die . anybody have information to help me ?? Been trying to figure this out and I'm stuck