fminusmic

hey all, so after replacing the clutch in my 4speed last year, im finally going to be putting in my 5 speed in my hatch real soon. I wasn't able to find a SI transmission for the right price (everyone wanted like $200-400), but was able to snag a DX 5 speed and a SI final drive + shaft for about $70 total.

before I start to pull the tranny apart, is it similar to the D16, just so I know what I'm getting into? didnt look to difficult, just looked like there were a ton of gears i needed to keep track of

solved, thanks!

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Transmission work isn't that hard, but you've got to have some specialized tools for disassembly, reassembly, and inspection. Yes, the DX transmission is similar to the Si transmission. It sounds like you're on a tight budget, but it's a good idea to go ahead and replace bearings and seals while it's apart. You should also inspect and replace any damaged or worn synchros and hubs.

fminusmic

I got it apart and everything back together, including the new final drive and differential. I was a little confused at first, but I found a real good guide that had pictures. https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/d...ld-89pics.html

how important are the gaps between each gear and synchro? I ask this because everything kind of just fell apart easily, and into place easily, nothing needed to be pressed/didnt need any special tools to remove anything.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I assume you're talking about the clearances between the hubs / bearings and the shafts? I've had transmissions disassemble / reassemble completely by hand (though most of the time at least the countershaft bearings require a puller/press). Personally I never saw any negative impact from ones that did, but I'm not an expert.

If you're talking about synchro to hub clearances, smaller clearance means a more worn synchro, and I would refer you to the FSM for specifications, and replace if lower than the spec.

fminusmic

thank you, yea i have a press that i used to get it out, i didnt have a puller, but used another method using a socket and a hammer and tapping lightly with the press

fminusmic

I got everything back together, any last way to tell if I did this correctly, before i swap the whole transmission in? I just sealed the housing back together with RTV and gave the inside a good cleaning with brake cleaner, but i dont mind taking it off now, instead of swapping it then finding out it doesnt work. this is what i double checked:

1. greased the throw bearing, shaft, spring
2. lubed up everything else with oil
3. the diff/countershaft/shaft spun without any weird noises/issues
4. i torqued everything to spec, including countershaft nut
5. good clearances when measured
6. replaced any seals that were worn/hubs
7. no missing bolts/snap ring closed again

thanks for the help btw on this, wouldnt have had the confidence if it werent for your posts

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Use a drift pin or a screwdriver to shift through all the gears and make sure you aren't locked out of any. Spin the transmission in each gear and make sure you don't feel any binding. Glad I could help.

fminusmic

wondering if you could throw me some advice here, that little metal shaft on the transmission that the shift linkage connects to, can adjust 3 different lengths (to go in gear)

when its pushed in all the way, the dif spins fine when i move the main shaft
when its in the middle, the dif doesnt spin when i move the main shaft
when its pull out all the way, the dif spins when i move the main shaft

i been trying to work why the dif isnt spinning when that linkage is in the middle. when the transmission housing is off, the dif moves in all 3 lengths, but when i close it this happens.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

The metal shaft is called the shift shaft. With the shift shaft in the center, the transmission is in neutral. If you push it straight in, that is 4th gear. If you pull it straight out, that is 3rd gear. If you put a drift pin or screwdriver through the hole in the shift shaft, twist it to the left, and push in, that is 2nd...pull out and that is 1st. From neutral, twisting to the right and pulling out is reverse, pushing in is 5th.

fminusmic

I'm guessing the dif is not supposed to spin with the input/main shaft in neutral? cause i tried all the other gears and the dif still spins on all of them. i really hate asking you all these noob questions (thank you for the help x1000000), i have the helms manual + factory workshop manual and some guides that i've read on the internet, but some of the technical terms in the book i cant understand. like figuring out the direction of the washer and spring washer on the input shaft took me a good few hours. which i now believe goes [bearing] ( spring washer | washer < input shaft

DaX

iTrader: (1)

The diff may still spin in neutral due to friction, but if you can hold the diff still you should still be able to rotate the input shaft.

fminusmic

hey, yeah i just tested it, sometimes the dif will spin, sometimes it doesnt when in neutral. ill put the transmission in tomorrow, thank you for all the help. hope this goes well

fminusmic

i actually ended up taking it apart again because for some reason i couldnt get into 5th gear/reverse and the input shaft was a bit hard to turn by hand. i found out that a synchro clip got loose and jammed inside a gear. fixed that, tested each gear like you said by using the shift shaft. the input shaft also had the smoothest turns ive ever felt in my life. got the tranny on the car now, thank you for all your help in this, man.

i definitely owe you for all the help. this thing was a bitch to do

DaX

iTrader: (1)

You're welcome. The next one will be easier.