vegaskurt

Thats what I am working on, took a dremel to an old dpfi ecu to get the plugs and I am soldering wires to each pin. From there I will run them into obd1 ecu clips which will be the fun/painstaking task.

vtecn8ive

Yeah I went to the junkyard and got my ecu clips for a DPFI car since they are pretty much useless ecu's Then I have some obdo and obd1 ecu plugs (that go into the ecu) that I cut a good amount of wiring and traced the wires.

This was how I put together my obdo ecu test harness

dr_latino999

I just finished with the actual engine harness, adding and integrating the following parts -
OBD-1 Distributor Clips
Four Wire Oxygen Sensor
Vtec Solenoid
Vtec Pressure switch
Thermoswitch

I grouned the pressure switch, oxygen sensor, and the thermoswitch to the thermostat housing. Only problem with the distributor was the two white wires of OBD-0, I couldn't figure out which one went to the white wire and which one went to the white wire with the stripe; I know one was shielded and the other wasn't. Off to start the ECU connections.

Jonathan_ED3

I made my own OBD-OBDI conversion harness like a year ago.

I still don't know if it works because I haven't had a reason to use it yet. Sure was a PITA to make!

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, ELD is wire B19 in OBD-0, does ELD have a wire in OBD-1 or is it taken care of inside the ECU?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Huh?

dr_latino999

Wire B19 on the OBD-0 harness is Electrical Load Detector. There is no wire available in the OBD-1 harness that is labeled for ELD so I assuming this relagated to an internal ECU function within OBD-1 ECUs?

dr_latino999

Thank god I have these charts pinned up in front of me on the fridge:

B19 - ELD --&gt; D10 - ELD

dr_latino999

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">D07 - TXD/RXD--&gt; This is the data link connector. It for a scan tool. One side goes to D7 and the other goes to D22.</TD></TR></TABLE> What about the wire already at D22?

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What about the wire already at D22?</TD></TR></TABLE>

D19 - Red/Wht, Reference Voltage, About 5V KOEO
D20 - Yel/Wht, Reference Voltage, About 5V KOEO
D21 - Blue/Wht, Sensor ground, Less than 1V
D22 - Green/Wht, Sensor ground, Less than 1V


They are common places. You have many wires going to D21 or D22 because it is sensor ground. You can not see them because Honda has common places inside the engine harness. Same for D19 and D20.

dr_latino999

Ok, so the ground to D22 is already there somewhere in the harness for the data connector.

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, so the ground to D22 is already there somewhere in the harness for the data connector.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You need to splice the wire into D22 or D21. It is for a Scan tool that costs about $3k. I do not think you are going to use it.

vtecn8ive

is the list all done too? omg I am getting the shakes just wanting to make the harness now!!!

vtecn8ive

kick *** man. Good freakin job. I am a DIY guy and this **** is going to be on my to-do-asap-list

Where did you get the plugs that originally came from the ecu? Do you know where to purchase them?
-shane

dr_latino999

You can do it one of two ways -

Option A) Find a spare OBD-0 ECU, remove PCB and then either desolder harness connectors or dremel then off carefully
Option B) Hardwire into existing OBD-0 harness.

I chose option B since I messed up my OBD-0 harness connectors.

vtecn8ive

okay cool thats what I thought. thanks man

goforbroke

Ok, well I just went to the junkyard today and picked up some OBD1 Plugs and I have civic lx computer that I'm going to use the plugs from. I think I"m just going to follow your diagram of what you have and do a little research also. A close friend of mine has the jumper harness already so I might take a peak at that also.

DieMaster

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You need to splice the wire into D22 or D21. It is for a Scan tool that costs about $3k. I do not think you are going to use it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm going to make my own scan tool out of a PDA. thats the whole reason i wan conver to obd1. oh and the vtec of course

dr_latino999

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DieMaster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm going to make my own scan tool out of a PDA. thats the whole reason i wan conver to obd1. oh and the vtec of course </TD></TR></TABLE> Just what I needed, someone to upstage the post creater with a niftier item.

goforbroke

Well I guess I'm going to get started on this little project hopefully I don't get too . I still need extra wire though but I think I can find a old wiring harness laying around somewhere.
Anything else I might need please let me know, thanks.

vegaskurt

What kind of wire is everyone planning on using? I started using plain old 18awg jumper wire, but now I realize I should probably use something shielded.

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vegaskurt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of wire is everyone planning on using? I started using plain old 18awg jumper wire, but now I realize I should probably use something shielded.</TD></TR></TABLE>

For the crank sensor? I used 18 guage shielded wire.

dr_latino999

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vegaskurt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of wire is everyone planning on using? I started using plain old 18awg jumper wire, but now I realize I should probably use something shielded.</TD></TR></TABLE> 18awg where I could, if not I used other harness wires I had of the same color. For the wires that needed to be shielded, I had some insulated/shielded wires laying around of 12awg outer shroud, 14 inner, and 16 to break off the plastic cover for a grand total of 3 layers of insulation and shielding before 18awg wire

dr_latino999

Ok, request for OBD-1 Distributor Pinout (colors), OBD-0 Distributor Pinout (colors) and then there corresponding functions. I am trying to start the car and am not getting spark so I assume it is the distributor wiring as this distributor was used to start someone elses car two days ago.

dr_latino999

Today I recieved my ECU from Turbogixxer and I assembled the car for the final test. I turn the key, and just cranking. I have fuel, air, but no spark. I have three of the plug wires out with plugs in them and they are not firing at all. So my question is, what can I do to test the wiring?

I.E. I have my wires at the distributor hooked up as following

OBD-0 --&gt; OBD-1
Fat White --&gt; Fat White
White --&gt; White/Blue (Shielded)
Orange --&gt; Orange (shielded)
Orange/Blue --&gt; Orange/Blue
White/Blue --&gt; Yellow Green (Shielded)
* blue/green shielded
* blue/yellow shielded

At the OBD-1 Distributor, plug (harness side, we have the following
Orange -- Orange/Blue -- Blue/Green -- Yellow Green
White -- White/Blue -- Blue/Yellow



Are these wires in the correct location, as well, how would I test for the proper signals?

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OBD-0 --&gt; OBD-1
Fat White --&gt; Fat White
White --&gt; White/Blue (Shielded)
Orange --&gt; Orange (shielded)
Orange/Blue --&gt; Orange/Blue
White/Blue --&gt; Yellow Green (Shielded)
* blue/green shielded
* blue/yellow shielded

At the OBD-1 Distributor, plug (harness side, we have the following
Orange -- Orange/Blue -- Blue/Green -- Yellow Green
White -- White/Blue -- Blue/Yellow</TD></TR></TABLE>

Looks like you have Fat white and white/blue mixed up. Yel/Grn is your ignitor (ICM) signal, not a postion sensor.

It should like like this (I am pulling this off the top of my head)

OBD-0 ----&gt; OBD1
Orange ----- Orange
small white --- white
Org/blue --- Org/blu
White/blue ---- White/blue
Fat white ----- yel/grn