whole9

Perfect thx!

dread731

Didn't the kid car get into some sort of accident saving his father. Mechanics performed emergency surgery and he came out with a cab shell and a hotrod engine. He was the origianl sleeper.

Rob.

I need to replace mine too !

Zeus Zore

barely4dr

I know that I won't be able to do it myself, so who will? Alignment shop?

sanimalp

ok, sorry a really dumb question, but there is only one rack end bushing correct? i have got the tell tale vibration at certain brake pressure thing going on.. and i need to order some parts from the online parts store, and they always seem to take a month to ship and i dont want to find out that i need 2. the diagram only shows 1..and it doesnt quite make sense to me why there is only 1 instead of 2, but i havent taken mine apart yet to see....one of those deals where i can only afford a day of downtime per maintenance job.

Tyson

1 bushing. its good to buy one lock washer too, if youre not careful removing the original one.

oh yeah, dont forget to replace any torn accordian boots either.


Modified by Tyson at 2:14 PM 9/10/2005

Twilight

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1 bushing. its good to buy one lock washer too, if youre not careful removing the original one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah. And my steering rack was little damaged too much from previous owners lowering. Lowering springs cutted to get more low. So the bushing ended loud clunking, but there is still little, i mean very little clunking from the area.

I'm thinking to get new steering rack (basically they are cheap cuz its manual steering, and other models have the same rack too). And to rebuild all tie- ends and ball joints aswell.

Cuz i want to build it to be dream car of my own. B18C, new suspension, ball joints and other stuff to make it confortable, and faster too.

Tyson

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Twilight &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah. And my steering rack was little damaged too much from previous owners lowering. Lowering springs cutted to get more low. So the bushing ended loud clunking, but there is still little, i mean very little clunking from the area.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

did you tigthen the gearbox as well? i ended up with a bit more clunk too, and tightening the gearbox completely got rid of it. dont forget to do that. the process is not complete without doing so, in my opinion.

Reelizmpro

For the past year I've had the same problem. Right front wheel clunking/vibrations over rough roads particularly when turning left and while braking. Lately, it's been intolerable, shaking violently while braking. Thought it might be the axles, lower/upper ball joints, tie rods....then Tyson mentions the Rack End Bushing. Since our cars are at least 15 years old, and the bushing is plastic, chances are it's toast so I figured it was worth changing especially since it's less than $10. Last night Tyson and I (mostly Tyson), changed the REB and the problem is solved! It made a huge difference in how the steering felt. Steering feels more precise with less effort and more control. So if you have the same symptoms, try the REB first before spending big $$$ on tie rods, ball joints, pullers, etc.

Twilight

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

did you tigthen the gearbox as well? i ended up with a bit more clunk too, and tightening the gearbox completely got rid of it. dont forget to do that. the process is not complete without doing so, in my opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll look something up. But i never opened gearbox side bolts. Just the righter ones to get rack little lower. If you mean the gearbox's side connecting bolts.

Tyson

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reelizmpro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Last night Tyson and I (mostly Tyson), changed the REB and the problem is solved! It made a huge difference in how the steering felt. Steering feels more precise with less effort and more control. So if you have the same symptoms, try the REB first before spending big $$$ on tie rods, ball joints, pullers, etc. </TD></TR></TABLE>

its all about the REB!

another believer. who else wants their car handling great?


Modified by Tyson at 7:32 PM 9/18/2005

crx_88_si

lol me! live near toronto ontario?? :D

EFSiR

[<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i just adjusted my gear box and i must say, this also is a MUST do.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


I've never done this. What are we adjusting here? What is the process of the adjustment?
TIA

Tyson

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFSiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've never done this. What are we adjusting here? What is the process of the adjustment?
TIA
</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/C...4.pdf

aznnay

how do u drop the rack off. i cant get that one bolt that stickin out the one that go through the wall that #6 in the diagram in the first page

Tyson

heres some more detail on how to get to the rack end bushing.

this is the rack end bushing. looking from the passenger side.



here it is completely out.



now this is what we're talking about. the lcok washer. see how the tabs are bent.



here they are flattened. i used the vice grip to flatten it completely.





this is the tool i had available that made it a bit easier. i also used a small, sharp screw driver. first i used the pick side of the pry tool to punch the tab open a bit. then used the small screwdriver to open it up a little. then further opened it with the pry bar side of the pick. then finished it off with the vice grip.

btw, this is much easier when its out of the car. its nearly impossible to do under the car, which is why i recommend just wrenching off the lock washer instead of unbending the tabs. of course it helps if you drop the 4 bolts of the steering rack to get more wiggle room too. but its still crowded under there. having done this both ways now, i can say its worth the time to take the rack out completely.

Tyson

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pongman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do u drop the rack off. i cant get that one bolt that stickin out the one that go through the wall that #6 in the diagram in the first page</TD></TR></TABLE>

to take the whole rack out, just pop off both outer tie rods. to get to the bolt on the top of the spindle #6, go under the dash, take off the lower steering column cover. then youll see a 10mm bolt all the way down inside. rotate the steering wheel to get better access to that bolt if you need to.

then you have to drop the exhaust and shift linkage. and it will come out. its a bit tricky, you have to turn the steering wheel all the way to the left or right and it will drop down one side at a time.


oh, heres the official shop manual instructions.
http://media.honda.co.uk/car/o...5.pdf

LSV_REX

bookmarked

mahatma

Link for adjusting the gearbox isn't working.....would someone be willing to explain briefly how to accomplish this? Does it have to do with tightening that big round screw-in thing with the bolt head in the middle?.....and the little spring behind it?

Kick-**** thread

ProJectCvic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSV_REX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bookmarked</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please don't do this. If you want o bookmark this link, do so via your internet browser. When you post on here...you bring this post back from the dead without any reason.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mahatma &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Link for adjusting the gearbox isn't working.....would someone be willing to explain briefly how to accomplish this? Does it have to do with tightening that big round screw-in thing with the bolt head in the middle?.....and the little spring behind it?

Kick-**** thread</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is for a 92-95 civic. Very similar if not the same for the crx.

ProJectCvic

I got a question for you all the have taken out the rack and reinstall.

How do you find the center point to reinstall the rack? Would you just eye ball so the two tie rods boots are even in length and then install? I know it not the simple, but maybe it is??

Thanks in advance.

Tyson

yeah, basically. just get the two sides straight and even. then check lock to lock to see if the steering wheel is in the middle. then readjust the tie rods. you definately need to get it professionally aligned. eyeballing it is not good neough.

ProJectCvic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, basically. just get the two sides straight and even. then check lock to lock to see if the steering wheel is in the middle. then readjust the tie rods. you definately need to get it professionally aligned. eyeballing it is not good neough.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Was planning on getting an alignment anyways. Thanks

spoonef

would you guys say that this is the cause of my problem? I have loud clunking on bad roads and sometimes when i shift.Ive checked every single thing(balljoints,tierods,engine mounts)