grfloater

I own the car from 1990. Recently (8 months ago) I revived it, after 7 years of sleep! A lot of mold and rust. Changed all parts in the fuel path (pump, injectors), new radiator and... ran as new.
Recently it failed. Sparks ok, pump ok, but injectors will not fire. The electrician said it is from the distributor pick-up coils, they are all rusted and no good measurements. ECU does not throw any codes, though (but looks like neither injection kicks!).
The (rusted) dizzy is TD-03U. I remembered in the past I had to change the igniter hybrid (OKI) and some months later the rotor chewed the pich-up coils (should be dust/ruins left in the enclosure, after the hybrid fix), so I changed the whole dizzy with a used part.
Question is, TD-03U is the original fit for my CRX? Are there other alternatives (read that with different cam cup other models can fit too?)?
Though I can find TD-03U replacements (new) in ebay etc, for less than $100, p&P and import taxes to Europe (Greece) are prohibiting (almost doubling the price)!
I do not think anyone will deal with replacing coil only parts, the situation is rusty! Could you suggest other fix, or alternatives?
Thanks, Dimitris

Edit:
I can find in Europe "TD03U" new, do not know the origin (most pro China), for 170 euro, plus 10-15 euro shipping.
Another brand that I came in is Ashuki. Supposed it is top quality Japan-Korean spares manufacturer. Anyone knows about? Again at 170 euro (but higher shipping) from 12tune. This Ashuki TD03U, according to 12tune, fits:
Honda Civic 1987-1991 3-door hatchback 1.6i DOHC (D16A9/ZC - ED7)
Honda Civic 1987-1991 4-door sedan 1.6i (D16A6/A9 - ED4)
Honda CRX 1987-1993 1.6i DOHC (D16A9/Z5 - ED9)
OEM part numbers: 30100-PM7-046, H955-04, TD014, TD-014, TD03U, TD-03U
Bad luck I do not live in the US.
Any opinions?

grfloater

Just a quick update and a question:
I found a seller in Germany with a used TD03U, which I am going to order.
But I still wonder, and if someone has any answer: Say pick-up coils inside dizzy are fried. The ECU does not throw any codes and, when cranking, sparks are OK, but no fuel is injected to cylinder (pump is OK). How the ECU "half knows" that has a problem, does not report anything, tries to fire spark but no injection pulse? Does the spark come from independant route/part of logic? And why no codes from ECU (while not outputing injection pulse, for some reason)?
As I said, I've been again with problems in dizzy:
1. fried igniter hybrid - no codes, understood, it is after the ECU
2. "chewed" pick-up coils (from dirt in the rotor), code 8 or 9 (don't remember)
But this case is strange...
Any ideas?

grfloater

Well, changed dizzy with a new TD03U, Ashuki. The car still does not start. Sparks OK, fuel reaches the bypass, but the plugs are dry, the injectors do not fire. No error codes either, the ECU seems OK.
Tomorrow we will check with oscilloscope the output from the pick-up coils in dizzy, as well as other signals (in/out).
Any hints and advice welcome.
10Q

jlicrx

when you turn the key to 'ON', the Check Engine Light should come on for a couple of seconds, at which time the fuel pump starts pumping - the CEL will then go off - I would first check the Main Relay - it controls the fuel pump but also controls power to the ECU and power to the injector resistor box

the TD03U distributor is also found on the 88 and 89 USDM Integra D16A1 engine





make sure that you have the plug wires in the correct location on the distributor cap

grfloater

Thank you jlicrx, very detailed directions. You have some quite mysterious air intake setup, in your photo...! ;-)
I read also other helpful topics here, a similar to my case was from MrHopper (10 years car stored, rust), nice guidance.
Well, the car started yesterday, but I still have problems. Let me update:
I know about main relay, used to have some problems (waiting 5-10', or jiggling it a little to arm the pump), but this was not the case, this time.
Friday we swapped the TD03U with a new, Ashuki, from 12tune. The old dizzy was really toast, pick-up coils were rusted. Though all electrical was OK, car did not start, which lead me to post my previous comment. Saturday morn, with oscilloscope, found that it was a loose pin (gnd) in a connector of the ECU. The connector was removed for measurements, during initial debugging, seems that when replugging a pin was pushed out (back). This was revealed while trying to probe again for signal, and simply pressed back in.
So I get the car on Saturday. Make some km in town, looks to me that makes some mild hiccups (like losing some spark or injection)... I could notice it especially when going steady. Thought it might be bad fuel, being there for 4 week, so I filled up with V-power. For next ~40km I did not notice it again, so went for a some trip, national road. First 200km where ease, though I (now) had a feeling the car was a little "choked" and maybe not full power (running rich?). Then heavy rain starts and the hiccups are back, now more vivid and knocking... some km afterwards CEL is on, code 1 (oxygen sensor). I had to drive the next hour with 60-70 km/h, down to 30-40 uphill, with "egg" under pedal and 2-3 mm moves, not to have vibrant hiccups. I think fuel consumption was higher, as well.
After resting at cold, car starts without CEL, but problems are there and does not look it can go far...
So, the code was O2 sensor, of course this could be caused by many other reasons, eg losing other sensors (temp etc) and thinking car is cold and thus running rich for hours!
I start reading now other topics, on sensors, running rich etc, waiting for Monday to go for a repair mechanic (I am far from base now!).
Thank you for your support.

crx_si-r

Most pre obd (obd0) have interchangeable internals. If all you need are some internals purchase a td02 dizzy (factory mpfi) and swap them out. If yours is a dohc zc then ones from s 89 n older integra will work. Save you some money from buying feom overseas for something you may not need

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Definitely agree. Even more recent OBD1 distributors have interchangeable internals between them and previous generations. Don't let what I said confuse you though, it is only specific pieces. But if what he says is true, the TD02 will work fine for you. Just use the piece that bolts on from your old distributor and swap out the internals.

grfloater

Well, thank you guys, nice info, but I did purchased a new (Ashuki) TD03U and stored the old OEM one (I think TEC); igniter and coil should be working, for any future spares. You see, in past years, I had two other instanses with dizzy: 20 years ago the OKI igniter was gone, replaced from a Rover at a local mechanic (who eventually proved not to be so tidy and clean), after some months the pickup coils were "chewed" (particles inside dizzy), wire spread all over the cap, CEL 8 or 9 (do not remember) on ECU. Had to replace dizzy with a used OEM. This lasted for years, but got rusted (the coils) after storing car for 10 years!
Now I am OK from dizzy, but car still doing "hiccups". Strange thing is that it gets worse with time, ie you may not even notice it in first 15', after 1-2 hours get very vivid, power down, knocks.
We put a pressure gauge on fuel filter. While running good (cold-warm), the needle was steady, going to ~ 2atm momentary at acceleration, then ~1.5atm steady. When starting the "hiccups", the needle "dances".
So, took out the tank: rusted, wash it ~clean (could not find OEM in good condition), changed pump, front filter (near the firewall), cleaned all way to injectors. Put new gas. Again, "hesitations". Run some distance, gauge on windscreen to look at it, does not look good. So we figure it is fuel/pressure problem, maybe in the lines from tank to filter? My question is the car was running OK, prior to dizzy pass out. What caused the "fuel problem", 4 weeks after car was still at the mechanic? Rust? Clogged? Why it gets worse only after at least 15-30' hot? Btw, iddling is rather steady, ~800 rpm, even after being "bad" (though you can hear the "burps", and gauge is ticking).
I attach a video link, needle "dancing", if anyone can interpret the fuel pressure readings. It was just starting the "hiccups", gets worse after 1 hour!
Thank you!