alex14

I have a Z6 motor out of the car, with the head off and I need to remove the crank pulley bolt. I got the crank pulley removal tool, but there is supposed to be a hex shape on the crank pulley to hold onto and my crank pulley is round.
I dont have an impact wrench.
how can I get it off?

Tyson

lock the flywheel and use a big breaker bar and a friend to brace the engine.

alex14

I knew I had to stick it somewhere, I stuck it in the crank pulley holes and it kept slipping.

FSRslug

?

theineffable

you probably have the wrong tool..the hex head tool is for the newer style honda crank pulleys

if you have an older honda, your pulley probably has holes around the perimeter of the pulley.

IMO, easiest way to loosen the crank pulley bolt is to use some sort of crank pulley holder. here are some ways to do this:
1) buy an OEM or equivalent crank pulley bolt holder
2) if you don't want to spend any money, get two bolts that are approximately the size of each perimeter hole. insert one bolt into a hole, skip a hole, then insert another bolt into the hole. now take a 25" breaker bar and put it between the two bolts you inserted into the crank pulley. this will work the same way as the OEM crank pulley bolt holder. (this is the method i used after i couldn't remove the bolt w/ an impact gun...tranny in 5th gear and buddy stepping on brakes also failed me...this method was super easy and worked w/ my $10 breaker bars =p)
3) if method 2 is too ghetto for you, you can make a tool that works similar to an OEM crank pulley holder. take a thick piece of steel then drill two holes for the bolts.

anyway, don't bother w/ any other methods such as:

1) inserting screw driver into flywheel - you might damage the flywheel
2) inserting **** (such as rope) into the cylinder to keep engine from turning - puts necessary stress on engine components
3) tranny in 5th gear, buddy stepping on brakes - this sounds good in theory but didn't work when i tried it. the drive train had too much springyness. it also puts unnecessary stress on engine mounts etc. if your car is crap, your clutch could slip or your brake might slip too.
4) cranking the starter while breaker bar is on crank pulley bolt (this will never work on a D series...i will just LOL @ you)


impact gun might work but i'm not a fan of this method because it's not guaranteed. you'll need a gigantic compressor and a 3/4" - 1" impact gun. it actually takes a lot less than 1000ft lb to remove the bolt but you'll need a 1000ft lb impact gun since impacting will cause lots of energy to be lost in the springy drive train.

alex14

I was going to try the flywheel method next. The 2 bolt system sounds a lot better though.

theineffable

Just to let you know..it will be a bit tight trying to get the 25" breaker bar tween two bolts... It's definitely doable though.

Also, it'll be a lot easier if you put a cheater pipe on the second breaker bar. When other methods failed me, the crank pulley holder method was surprisingly painless. Worked first try.

Nooch

ya 2 bolt method worked for me as well.

hatchet_honda

um the engine is OUT OF the car..this is gonna be tricky. i have my d series on an engine stand. i welded 2 bolts the same size as the holes in the pulley to a long steel bar. i insert the bolts in the holes and wedge the bar against the ground. cheater pipe on a breaker bar and poof. comes off

ef9twin

You can just use a long enough wrench and screw it in place with a tranny bolt
and one of the nipples on the fly wheel.
The picture explains it better.

1990hondacrx

hell if the engine is out of the car and the head off you can pick it up its light. Load it up take it to a shop with a good impact guna and give them 5 bucks to break the bolt and be done no fighting. hell they will probably do it for free

gmarchel

If you have a big impact gun and an air compressor, I would do it that way. When my B18 was out of my car I had a heck of a time getting the darn crank pulley off. Finally I borrowed one of my friend's impacts and just brrrped it off. If that's not an option though, I would consider just loading it up and taking it to a shop, like the above post said.

iskate2

+1 on the "load it up and take it to a shop" method. If its on a stand and you plan on breaking it loose, have a couple of extra hands ready, as its probably going to want to tip.

A diesel repair shop usually has the necessary tools, a tire shop may not have high enough pressure/strong enough guns. plus, you'll impress the hell out of some big diesel die-hards with the strength of stock honda stuff.

Tyson

my further opinion is that if the engine is in the car and the car runs, then you take it to the shop, have them loosen it and tighten it back up and finish the job at home. this keeps it a one man job.

if the engine is out, then you just lock the flywheel, similar to ef9twin's pic. you just brace something against the dowels and two bolts, it will not damage the flywheel. if you do, youre an idiot. i have applied enough force with a long *** cheater bar to break the actual crank bolt (i thought it was reverse thread.... im an idiot) so you should easily be able to break it loose going the right way. this would certainly be a better use of a friend to help you than help loading a dirty engine into the car.