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you run the ebrake cables for your car, so you would get them for the EF civic si.
and I am clueless as to what you are trying to do with the wiring, it sounds like you want to make some sort of cool state of the art rats nest. Most people mod their stock engine harness to fit the new engine so that way it works with all the plugs. if converting to an obd1 ecu you would add the ecu jumper harness. i find it easier also to just pick up an extra harness and mod that if i want to keep a stock harness around as well. but it sounds like you are really set on making all the crazy stuff...good luck..
Wow - long confusing sentence.
You stated that you have an OBD1 block with OBD2 head and OBD1 engine harness.
You want to use an ECU jumper with a sub-harness to the jumper
(If you are converting at the firewall plugs, I am totally lost for how any sub-harness to the ECU is supposed to work.)
You want to leave the OBD0 harness alone so you can swap back if you need to.
You started off saying you had a problem you are running into. What's the problem?
basically want to rewire the entire car without ******* it up and not being able to get it done, so i need all the proper manuals so when i go offline i'll have all the information i'm going to need just in case
Doing a full obd1 conversion if your ok with wiring isn't too difficult. I've done a few. But what you would be better off with is a dpfi to obd1 set up. But with obd2 components.
If anyone tell you it's you need to convert to obd2 they are wrong. You can do an obd1 conversion and just add on the obd2 alternator and distributor plugs and be set. I do these all the time. The parts are compatible.
like this right here, is anyone making this for the bseries engine? but not as extravagant looking, i don't care about looks, i just want it to work... and be able to set tension..
ok i'm reading the dpfi- mpfi swap made easy page on H-T, so the ground wire from inj 1, is also wired into the ground for inj 2, 3 , and 4.. and wires from the inj2,3, and 4 on the ecu need ran to the other 3 injectors... not sure i'f i'm going to need a jumper harness i might just repin or solder into an obd1 ecu plug in there correct locations.. am i right? i can just cut off obd1 ecu plugs and rewire my obd0 ecu plugs too each correct place on the ecu? after that i would be extending the plugs on my obd0 harness to updated plugs for the map, tps, iat, and iacv... to plug into my obd2 gsr manifold.. also have another question i've heard that if you run an older alternator with a shorter belt I wouldn't have to beat in the frame rail?? i've already tried an obd1 alty in that spot and the pulley wheel rubs with it tucked as far as it will go towards the block.. any info on that would be great i might not even have to change my alternator plug if i can run an obd0 d series alternator if they are truely smaller than an obd1.. if not i'll extend the alternator plug to wrap around the front.. still need to know if anyone makes a bseries alternator relocater.... also is it possible to mount an alternator in the back of the car powered by a small motor that would power it??? with a switch i can turn on when i get in the car that will basically start the motor running the alternator in the trunk area where i can relocate my battery aswell?? kind of like a stand alone power source?? so i don't have to run my alternator under the hood where it would just get beat up and rusted?
and oh yea i really wish you all weren't asleep.. lol
So... the "ground" wire you are talking about is actually the + power wire. All the injectors get constant power from the main relay and all tie together like you are suggesting.
The ECU provides individual ground pulses to trigger the injectors.
You have existing wires for 2 injectors.
You will need to add 2 more wires for the 2 additional injectors for MPFI.
The distributor will also need you to add 2 more wires.
The DPFI has the crank angle sensor for the distributor at pins C1 and C2 while MPFI has them at B10 and B12.
So, you can either depin and relocate these at the ECU plug (or deal with it at the distributor).
MPFI occupies C1 and C2 with cylinder position sensor.
You will need to add 2 wires to account for this additional sensor.
If you looks closely at a DPFI and MPFI throttle body, you will notice that the TPS rotates the opposite direction.
You need to swap the two wires on the TPS plug.
2 more wires need to added for the heater circuit on the OBD1 O2 sensor. (I believe the 4th wire goes to a common ground in the OBD1 engine harness loom.)
If you are going GSR, then you need to account for more wires.
All the wires for VTEC, knock sensor, and IAB.
OBD1 and OBD2 IAB trigger differently. One is ground trigger while the other is + power trigger.
You will need to add a relay to handle this.
An electric motor to spin the alternator? Never heard of it. Seems like it defeats the purpose.
That electric motor would have to spin really fast which would draw a lot of power.
It would also get really hot really fast and burn out in no time.
Here's a way to mount the D-series alternator on a B-series. How to: D-series Alternator on a B-series - HomemadeTurbo - DIY Turbo Forum
I think the stock D-series alternator is only 60 amps while the OBD2 B-series is 90 (OBD1 alternator is 70 I think).
I would go with denting the frame rail especially if you are relocating the battery AND all the better if you have any aftermarket stereo equipment or electronics.
so you guys are basically saying converting my obd0 in cabin harness and obd0 engine harness up is easier than if i just switch my in cabin harness with an obd1 eg si in cabin harness with my already completed obd1 engine harness? am i correct? considering my obd1 harness is complete and available? you would rather me hack up my obd0 dpfi harness... rather me just switch the harness' and have to change a few plugs for the necessary obd0 pieces
How many things do you think will actually plug in on the cabin harness?
It's a wiring nightmare and will be hacked soooooo much more than if you just used all the OBD0 harnesses and converted with a jumper harness (like everyone else in the modern world does these days).
whats funny is a guy in another post says he would definitely go obd1 if he could do it all over again... said he sold all of his obd0 stuff for well over the price of adding a demon board to his obd1 ecu.. i just don't see how its easier considering all the wires are in the loom and pinned into plugs, with my obd0 setup i would be unpinning wires and have external wires ran all over.. i could easily do a cluster mod, a turn signal switch mod, a head lamp switch mod, and ignition switch mod, considering i'll just be unpinning them and adding on obd0 plugs to my obd1 in cabin harness, at that point i would just move my wires around at the ecu which already to obd1 for my p72? seems alot easier than converting to mpfi then converting to obd1 imo... actually i think it would be alot easier if i went with an already mpfi crx harness then just converted to obd1 at the ecu, but i don't have that and i have this.. i bet most of the modern world pays to get their cars wired, and basically use what they already have because they didn't take the time to collect the harness' that i have..
whats funny is a guy in another post says he would definitely go obd1 if he could do it all over again... said he sold all of his obd0 stuff for well over the price of adding a demon board to his obd1 ecu.. i just don't see how its easier considering all the wires are in the loom and pinned into plugs, with my obd0 setup i would be unpinning wires and have external wires ran all over.. i could easily do a cluster mod, a turn signal switch mod, a head lamp switch mod, and ignition switch mod, considering i'll just be unpinning them and adding on obd0 plugs to my obd1 in cabin harness, at that point i would just move my wires around at the ecu which already to obd1 for my p72? seems alot easier than converting to mpfi then converting to obd1 imo... actually i think it would be alot easier if i went with an already mpfi crx harness then just converted to obd1 at the ecu, but i don't have that and i have this.. i bet most of the modern world pays to get their cars wired, and basically use what they already have because they didn't take the time to collect the harness' that i have..
first let me start with the "i bet most of the modern world pays to get their cars wired"
negative! a mpfi swap is stupid easy and a obd1 swap regardless of how its done is even easier just more wires to deal with.
second "seems alot easier than converting to mpfi then converting to obd1 imo... actually i think it would be alot easier if i went with an already mpfi crx harness then just converted to obd1 at the ecu"
thats called a dpfi to mpfi swap regardless of how you type it, it is the same thing.
third "whats funny is a guy in another post says he would definitely go obd1 if he could do it all over again...
DUH...
nobody can help you other than yourself on this one. when people try to look at this thread they leave not knowing what your even asking for cause most of your post have been edited with ".."
every piece of information on every wire in that chassis as well as obd swaps is easily accessible in this website
my advice is to open wallet on this one as your asking questions that are all to easy for a novice Honda lover. If that car was in my garage it would be running in a hour with 0 dollars needed, the same could be said for you if all you had to do was connect the plugs together, you are trying to over complicate this easy task with more work that (no offence) is above your skill-set, and if you screw something up it can cause more problems. so your best bet is to undo what you did do and open wallet
06-12-2015, 08:31 AM
Re: conversions
