Surfjunkie44

Thanks for the mention. I double checked Hasport's website and will be purchasing the EFB2 in conjunction with the EFBHCL. It is the same price for the hydraulic or cable transmission mount kit - expensive!

CRX_RR

i purchase there hasport axle for my jdm itr swap with stock 98+ tranny and there axles sucks ***. the passenger axle was to long causing it to bind so if i were you, go look at else where for axles. I just don't want you to fall in my shoes where i was stuck for a year didn't know what was wrong with it.

Surfjunkie44

I have not done any research, only a touch of shopping. I built axles the last time I did a swap - H22A into a 1993 Accord EX with an auto-to-manual conversion. It wasn't the easiest task, but nothing unsurmountable - it just took a little shimmy work. That option may unfold as the most viable. I have heard Raxles mentioned variously on Honda-Tech, but have only briefly glanced at the website. But at $319, those aren't the cheapest option. Thanks for the info.

nightscream

LOTS OF GREAT INFO!!!!!!! SUBSCRIBED....

0_civic_4

i have a 88 crx with a b18c1 with a lsd hydro trans...i love it and its more than suffiecient. i also have an 89 sedan with a b16 with a b16 cable trans. i have to say that it come to preference. i love the b18 and the hydro trans. i would do it to my sedan if i hadnt already swapped it. as for motor mounts. hasports the way to go. innovative seem to me to be of cheap quality. you really do pay for what you get.

Surfjunkie44

I could not agree more, unfortunately. I am going to research implementing a hydraulic setup. I installed one previously with OEM junkyard parts when completing an auto-to-manual conversion, although this time it will be all new parts - I am simply curious to contrast how much either direction will cost. I will post regarding this information in the next week or two as I will be out of town for five days snowboarding in Utah.

Surfjunkie44

I sent Gator an email this morning and he literally called me less than an hour later. We chatted on the phone for about ten minutes and that was long enough to remind me of speaking with him at NOPI Nationals nearly ten years ago when I had my H22A Accord.

Gator Racing Axles is a locally owned shop here in the Orlando area. I live ten minutes from the shop, which is located right next the old Titan Motorsports location - I am sure a few of you are familiar with Titan's infamous Supra, which graced several BF Goodridge ads. I digress. Gator will be building custom axles for my vehicle instead of the typical pop-n-swap that frequents many hybrid Hondas. If you aren't convinced his custom axles are a better selection, call and ask him why you shouldn't purchase E-bay axles or customize your own set out of spare OEM parts. I promise five minutes on the phone will change your mind. For anyone interested, I have included the website below.

http://www.gatorracingaxles.com/index.php

sal_flip

This thread is freaking me out because its the same thing I have been doing lately. I havent owned a crx for over 9 years and I just bought a 90 si 3 months ago. The body was in rough state but the original interior was mint. Old guy had the car a a commuter and retired.

I recently have been replacing all the 20 year old parts on the car to bring it up to new spec. I want to have all the suspension,braking and bushing issues out of the way before putting in a new motor. The PO had kindly installed a D15 from the junkyard when the original si motor went up. I was just going to do a rebuilt d16 stock replacement but lately the B-Series but has been biting. I figured why not as I am older now and have more spare change then when I had my first rex so might as well now. I plan on having a showroom looking crx but with a B-series in it. Heck I just put on honda oem exhaust and I never thought I would like factory exhaust on a car but man it looks so good.

GL with your build I will have to start taking pics and document mine as well.

Surfjunkie44

I will hopefully be finishing installing nearly $1500 in parts this week. I purchased the car, then drove it home to Orlando from Birmingham. I went out to dinner the next night and popped a clutch plate spring - Yay! As I dug toward the transmission, I discovered a cornucopia of service neglects. I decided to put in a hefty repair and replace session; this is what I have done so far:

x3 motor mounts
Pressure plate
Clutch disc
Throwout bearing and spring
Clutch pilot bearing
Resurfaced flywheel
Fluidyne Radiator
Full-Race traction bar
Rear main seal
Cap, rotor, plugs, and wires
Thermostat and gasket
Oil pan gasket
Valve cover gasket
Spark plug cylinder well gaskets
Transmission flush
Radiator hoses
UCA ball joints

There may be more, but I can't recall at the moment. You and I are both older guys with a few more dollars to sling toward our old fling. All I can say is do it right this time, because we both know better, LOL! I promised not to motor swap until all the details were completed - it is getting close. Best of luck on your build and keep in touch; it would be interesting to keep a side-by-side comparison of what we are both turning out. Let me know when you start your thread and I will subscribe.

Surfjunkie44

I submitted a request via email to www.hmotorsonline.com this morning for a total including shipping for the following:

- B18C (96-97 Spec) motor, tranny, ECU
- CRX Si-R gauge cluster (because I am going to need those extra RPM's)

The end of the month is seventeen days away... in a word, Stoked.

rd91sib18c5r

Cool I use the stock cluster, when people ride in my car they trip out
when I rev way past the end of the tac. lol

beneEE9

hey there!
wish you good luck and lots of fun with that swap.
i have a question to the transmission you want to use.
why dont you get the EE9 transmission from Europe? as you know honda sold the civic from 90-91 with a b16 engine here (same as EF9)
that transmission has cable and fits the b18.
i own a ee9 here in germany. i swaped a b18c6 (in the us it is the c5) and stayed with my trany. the trany i rebuild with syncrotech parts and put the ITR LSD in it.
works great.
your engine is staying stock right?
for my part the c5 trany would be to short. my b18 has ITB's with a port flow head and buddyclub spec6 cams. i think 2 gear in the c5 trany only goes to around 85km/h?
the EE9 trany makes 100km/h at 8800 RPM

beneEE9

EDIT: sorry for double post.. ist there a edit button?

i forgot one part. the ee9 trany (if you are looking for an old one to rebuild) cost about 100 euro. ok shipping would be expensive...
what does the ITR LSD cost in the US? you could also get a after market one.
syncrotech is also not that expensive and then you would have a fully new build trany.

Surfjunkie44

The head will be receiving a full porting job with an upgraded valve train and fuel system, though I plan to keep the bottom end factory for the Type-R spec - at least for now. The transmission will remain stock minus a slightly higher quality clutch plate, as well as maintaining a factory LSD. I am only seeking 220 whp from this build, fairly reasonable with proper tuning and the above mentioned build. I will initially purchase the Hydraulic-to-Cable conversion kit from Hasport. If additional clutch power becomes necessary, I will upgrade to a hydraulic clutch system. From what I have read though, this will not be necessary for my build, but as I mentioned earlier with RD91, if a YS1 happens to fall in my lap, I certainly won't neglect the opportunity. Thanks for the heads up Bene, and if you happen across one for a reasonable rate in your neck of the woods, well, let me know.

219

i have a b16a with itr head and b16 cable trans in my ef hatch .. lovin every minute of it.. next is obd0 to obd1 swap n chipped ecu IMO usdm itr is a waste of money.. be easier and cheaper to build it piece by piece.. where i come from u can get a gsr block and a b16 head for 700 bux.. the tear down and build is up to u

beneEE9

Yeah i still have a transmission here. you can get it for 60 euros... just have to find a way getting it shiped?
what do you pay for a hasport conversion kit?
i was just thinking that it might not be to much more expensive to rebuild a cable trany... that depends on what you would pay for the conversion kit.
i was just thinking that it would be nice to have a nice new transmission.
i run a exedy clutch stage 1 with a fidanza flywheel with it. works great with the cable.
i had a del sol vtec before and have also been driving friends cars that have the hydraulic system and i for my part like the cable tranys more.
Ok my car is more build to go on a track, but i still think you have more "feeling" in the cable.
greetings

Surfjunkie44

219 - If you read Post #24, I presented the break down of a JDM ITR (part-for-part) vs. a Poor Man's Type-R. It would cost $2300 to purchase every component necessary to build a GSR equivalent (and perhaps a tad better). In doing so, one would then need to purchase the GSR block, locate a suitable transmission and ECU, and then final assembly including mounts, axles, and shift linkage. The custom build presents higher HP gain preceeding additional work, but it also boasts higher mileage and wear on internal parts such as bearings and journals, etc. Personally, I would also prefer the slight prestige of boasting an authentic built Type-R under the hood. I honestly considered the Poor Man's build for quite some time before deciding the JDM ITR is a better selection for my desires, but I thank you for your input.

rd91sib18c5r

Can't beat that type r tranny, the guy I got my motor from
kept the tranny and was putting down 450whp and has been
handling it just fine. The gearing is nice for all motor I have
used ls gearing and b16 gearing and it was .5 second faster
in the 1/4 with b16 gears.

91GEDHATCH

Wow. I'm no where near getting to this stage with my "build" but this info is incredible. I'm subscribed. I am eager to see this one unfold.

Deetz

OP, if you are looking to upgrade your cluster, i have some advise......

The SiR cluster is kind of cool, and a few people have them, and yes, it does have the advantage of reading the higher redline on the tach. To install, you must do some custom wiring which includes the electronic speed sensor for the speedometer to work. The only issue for you is that the cluster reads in km's only

If you don't know already, the EDM or UKDM crx and/or civic "VT" is another great option for an upgrade! Is is more rare, and has it's own unique look...and install is a piece of cake! It can be found in either kms' or miles depending where it comes from, and it has orange needles instead of white. Here's an example of one

Surfjunkie44

I was NOT aware. I just placed a bid on one with MPH... Thank you very much for the heads up, Deetz!

Surfjunkie44

The original post has evolved into a build thread, thus as acting O.P., it is probably time I include some real updates. But first, I would like to issue a personal thanks to everyone who has given input, advice, humor, and even those who are simply "living vicariously". I have received a few wonderful emails from people following this build, and even without having posted pictures, it somehow managed a five-star rating. To the individual(s) responsible for that, I want to openly thank you because it was not an unnoticed action. Very well then, enough with the sentimental B.S., let us divulge some...

UPDATES

I am the proud new owner of an EDM CRX cluster with a mile-per-hour speedometer and a ninety-five hundred tachometer. And yes, I paid a bloody fortune.

*Thanks Deetz!*

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=230528978893

I am finishing the knick-knacks of neglect from the previous owner (Post #59). The service neglect became an entirely too large, pulsating migraine for me over the past month, not to mention the residual sideswipe on my banking account. The end result? I am the proud new owner of a Full-Race Traction bar, a Full-Race specific PWR half-radiator, and a Fluidyne CRX "0.5" radiator, as well as my original radiator. The section below is Post #40 from another thread I began titled, "Half Radiator + Traction Bar - Ghetto Lean...", which is directly related to my build.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...2890230&page=1

This is my experience, take it as you will...

- Fluidyne half-radiators are NOT a direct fit. Plan on notching the crossmember and hood.

- Fluidyne half-radiators will not accommodate a Full-Race Traction Bar without Ghetto Lean. Fabricated radiator supports or relocating supports are options as well.

- The OEM dual core radiator will require Ghetto Lean with a Full-Race Traction Bar, though I did not visually verify that hood notching would not alleviate this problem. Remind me to investigate this further when I have more time to tinker.

- The OEM fan will require cutting to adhere to the Full-Race specific PWR half-radiator. As well, the motor cooling fan will require custom brackets if you plan on retaining such.

I will have more at a later point, but for the moment need to run some errands. I promise pictures will be posted soon!

Surfjunkie44

The cinema industry regurgitates stereotypical plot lines, and while we all love the classics, aren't the films that entrance and entice us those which captivate our attention in a new manner? While I am no originator, I have typically touted the road less traveled - why should my swap be any different? K-series engines are 21st century and my swap is about epitomizing 20th century Honda technology. While the B-series is synonymous with our beloved Japanese manufacturer, her bigger sibling is often deprived much overdue admiration...

For those that have read my profile, I once belonged to the Dark Side - I was an H-series owner with a CB7. I truly loved the bone-crushing torque my H22AM2B4 (JDM w/LSD) delivered in a roughly 2700 lbs vehicle. I can only imagine such power carefully guided under the hood of a petite CRX. Before you begin ranting, "this guy is out of his tree", allow me to present some information.

The B18C (1996-7 Type-R) produces an estimated 200 HP/134 TQ.
The H22A (1992-6 VTEC) produces an estimated 200 HP/161 TQ.

That is a 20% increase in torque! No average bottom end build work will produce such, and as I have stated regarding the Poor Man's Type-R build contrasted to a Type-R, such a build would only bring the B18C at, near, or slightly above what the H22A TQ output is at stock.

The weight difference is negligible. I have read several posts contrasting B-series vs. H-series engine weights - the low-ball estimate is 35 lbs while the high-ball estimate is 75 lbs. While some may scream, "foul", the truth is in the numbers. The 1991 CRX Si weighs approximately 2175 lbs, thus we are presented with the following figures.

At 35 lbs, there is a 1.6% weight increase to the front end.
At 75 lbs, there is a 3.4% weight increase to the front end.

These are very negligible weights as spring rates can greatly counter the minor weight increment. Additionally, swapping for an aftermarket cross member (a necessity for wheel hop), a battery relocation, and a lighter weight radiator can counteract some of the additional weight.

I would like to mention one last final basis for this consideration... in a word, "price". I have expressed my desire to purchase from www.hmotorsonline.com on numerous occasions; I use their website as a pricing source for those questioning the following numbers.

B18C (1996-7 Type-R) motor, transmission, ECU - $3599 + shipping
H22A (1992-5 VTEC) complete swap with optional LSD - $2399 + shipping

*I quoted the complete swap for the H22A to include necessary parts for the swap*

That is $1200 less for a 20% increase in TQ! While the work involved to complete the H22A EF swap is certainly more demanding than a drop-in B18C, the numbers are difficult to refute. Additionally, the savings more than accommodates additional expenditures required for the H22A EF swap. I researched thoroughly this afternoon with my best friend who is visiting from NY. We had three lap tops open (all Macs, of course) with cans of Coke and Publix sugar cookies littering the coffee table. It was originally his idea to contrast engine weights.

*Thanks Stephen, this is all your fault!*

Many years ago, most would have argued the potential of the H22A was limited due to available aftermarket applications. Such is not the case nearly ten years later. I simply thought I would share this information. Anyone interested in the swap procedure should take a peek through www.explicitspeedperformance.net though I won't vouch for their products as I am still researching. More details to come soon!

I just realized the possibility exists I may have to change the title of this thread...

civiccrx

Get a k swap and be done with it.

Surfjunkie44

I mean no disrespect toward the K-series engine or its following, for the K-series is the pinnacle of Honda technology available to the consumer at this point. But, as I have stated on numerous occasions, my intent with this particular car is to epitomize 20th century Honda.