b20vtecGSR

I recently bought a 91 civic hatch and it came with an LS cable trans that I was told was fine. After days of wiring (it's OBD2 at the engine and OBD0 at the shock towers with some hard wiring into the ECU harness which is an OBD0 to OBD1 conversion harness running Hondata) the car started up and ran perfectly with no check engine lights and everything in good working order. Then it came time to move it and it was discovered that the trans was trash. The diff was totally toasted, so now I get the joys of replacing the trans. I have a GSR hydro trans that I would like to run, but I have some questions about it. I know I will need a cable to hydro kit and I read that Hasport's was no good and Innovative had a much better option. I know that this is in reference to the actuator with the master cylinder attached (41001), but I was wondering if anyone has had experience with the other actuator that they offer (41000) which is very similar in design to Hasport's model I believe. Innovative Mounts should be calling me back tomorrow to perhaps illuminate some of the differences. Furthermore, if i were to use my hydro trans, would I use the corresponding axles and half shaft or could I use the DA axles and halfshaft which are practically brand new? Also concerning the axles, I don't have pictures, but I don't really like the way they sit in the strut forks. They seem like they should be further back about an inch or two and I am slightly worried about that. Has anyone with a B-swapped EF had the same thing happen?

Hasport

so the Hasport cable to hydro conversion is no good? where did you read that?

crookson speed

if your ls case is late enough you can swap the hydro internals from the grs into the ls case with some grinding for the fd clearance i think. im pretty sure all you have to do is messure the id of the input shaft bearing but if your clutch disc currently on the car fits the gsr trans im pretty sure gearsets are swapable. correct me someone if im wrong. also look at getting a new pedal box fix the shitty clutch bushings and mounting a clutch cylender via hush performance mount kit but youll have to get rid of the left hand side duct. honestly the point of going hydro is getting rid of the cable so why still have to deal with a cable because in reality probably cost around the same if you do the labor yourself. just a thought.

crookson speed

b20vtecGSR

I know that the clutch does not fit my hydro trans because my clutch mounting tool (idk what it's actually called, it has splines that help align the clutch until the pressure plate is tightened) that works for my hydro trans was too big for the cable trans. The only reason I would be doing the hydro swap is because that's what I have laying around and it is a GSR rather than an LS, not really to eliminate the cable. I understand where you're coming from though and I may go full hydro in the future with it and sell the conversion, but right now I really just want to get it on the road.

b20vtecGSR

I don't know how to quote from another thread and bring it to this one, but the title is "HASPORT cable to hydro conversion, VS Innovative Cable to Hydro conversion" posted originally in 2006. Has the design been changed to solve the adjustment and pedal feel issues being described in that thread since then?

netfreak

If you want good pedal feel you'll likely need to use an actual hydraulic system. I run the hasport CMA in my car and have no complaints.

crookson speed

i dont think its bad its just when you switch to hydro someeople want to get rid of the cable.

hondatuner020

iTrader: (1)

pm'd

Hasport

the EFBHCL lever assembly was designed for use with a factory clutch or equivalent but people would use them on stage 4 unsprung 6 puc clutches and then complain about binding and pedal feel. the EFBHCL works fine when used as its intended purpose and we even road raced a b16b in a crx with one installed with no problems. once we found out the issues people were running into with the stiffer aftermarket clutches we came up with the CMA which allows use of master cylinder to actuate the slave cylinder on the hydro trans

solorex

You can just swap out the friction disk on the clutch to the one suited for the hydro transmission, if you don't want to buy a whole new clutch. I have the innovative 41000 part and it is great with a stage 1 exedy clutch. The problem with some of the master cylinder ones is your loose your vent under the dash (i.e. Hush Conversion). Like HASport mentions I am sure their kit is OK with a stock or stage 1 clutch. A lot of people "over clutch", I have run a fully built NA B20Vtec (230hp 160lftlb) road race, hillclimb etc.. and a stage 1 is just fine. Guess it just depends if you are a drag racer or not...

The Innovative bracket does bolt against the engine, so it is probably stiffer than the HASport one. That's why I went with it.

b20vtecGSR

Thanks for the input and also the info about the clutch disks. I am not worried about buying a new one though as I will just use the one that I ran in my 98 Integra GSR (donor car)

b20vtecGSR

I decided to go with the Innovative Mounts 40001. First, I had a small issue with mounting location and finding space, but I decided to make a simple bracket out of some scrap steel and mount it parallel to the intake tube. The biggest issue I ran into was the rubber bushing on the cable squeezed through the top of the lever that acts on the master cylinder. Luckily it happened backing out of the driveway. My fix was putting a metal sleeve around the bushing which will not allow it to fit through the hole. By no means was it easy for the cable to come uninstalled by itself. In fact, it lasted around an hour of driving before it finally popped. The pressure was just too great and the rubber was ever so slightly too soft.

I am about 500 miles in and after the initial hiccups, I am very satisfied.