ARP bolts not working on Z6 block to Y8 head...
 

I have BOTH Y8 studs and Z6 studs and in the one corner near the vtec solenoid (far left on intake side), the theading in the z6 block starts off shallow making any stud screwed into it 1/2" higher than all others....



That is the first problem...



Secondly the stud seat on the Y8 head in that same corner is about 1/4" lower which just increases the problem. In that corner a Y8 stud is too short and will only grap about 3/4 of the threads on the nut making it a weak point. The z6 stud is too long and when the nut is put on it, it spins all the way down untill the stud is out of thread up top and the nut still isn't seated.



All other locations need a z6 stud MATCHING THE BLOCK but the problem is that the corner where the VTEC solenoid is in the block makes for a raised stud, making a z6 stud there useless.



Anyone know what i'm talking about, ever done this setup with arp studs, or have any intelligence whatsoever as to what i should do chime in.



Vince

Re: ARP bolts not working on Z6 block to Y8 head... (AgentJam)
 

no?

Re: ARP bolts not working on Z6 block to Y8 head... (AgentJam)
 

don't know if this helps but I called arp when I did my swap.

I did an A6 block Y8 head and an .080" head gasket(insane offsets https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...s/emhammer.gif )
I had to buy the z6 and y8 stud kit. In one corner I used 1 y8 stud & the rest were z6 studs.

Also, according to arp: you don't need to thread the stud into the block fully.
Call em and make sure but 50% engagement or more obvoiusly may be all you need.

use their lube, torque to their specs & re-inspect after you bring the motor to full temp, like 24hrs.

good luck