Gir

When I get my b16 on the engine stand (after I order it) I want to replace timing belt, water pump, head gasket, oil pan seal, and all the other seals I can see, my only problem is what if the engine I get is bad and I have to send it back, could I reuse all of those seals I just paid for (I know I could reuse the tb and water pump)
or should I just toss the engine in and let her rip ?

onetwothree

Wow the only thing I changed when I did my swap was the oil. Damn your replacing the head gasket to. Man just change the clutch, water pump, timing belt and toss that thang in and have fun. You got the head off you might as well build it now. I raced my motor every chance I got. 8200rpm no probelms highway racing etc. I wouldn't recommend that now but I would recommend having fun. let it ride

slowpokesi

who are you getting the motor from

it is imperitive that you change the
timing belt, water pump, valve cover gaskets and seals,

you dont have to replace the head gasket or oil pan seal but if you know how to do it, its alot easier to do with the motor out of the car than the motor in the car.

Gir

Probably HMO, there was one other place that was rated better (cant remember name) that i might go with too. I guess the reason I was going to do it was because the motor was out of the car. when you say valve cover gaskets and seals which seals are you talking about ?

raene

Probably he meant the spark plug tower seals.

I've gone through and replaced almost everything on the head save the cam seals (and those need replacing also). Didn't really make a difference but it's good for peace of mind

I think I'm on my 4th or 5th timing belt too... in a year and a half.

Blaze45

Why do you replace the timming belt that often, a bit of overkill maybe?

Blaze

Ef Whore

Change T-belt/waterpump/idler, cam seals, front/rear main seals, valve cover gasket, and clutch. Throw in and enjoy vtec.

REDBARON

I got mine from HMO, and I only replaced the T-belt, water pump, and clutch. I've had it for about 8 months now, and it runs great. I would say if nothing else, just replace these things as they are essential.

Gir

What clutch should I use ? I plan on going turbo a year or so down the road. I am sometimes in traffic so I would like a lighter clutch if possible.

raene

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blaze45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you replace the timming belt that often, a bit of overkill maybe?

Blaze</TD></TR></TABLE>

First time I replaced it was that I got it coated in oil when I replaced the headgasket. Second time was that I realized it was stupid to use a cheap Lordco belt when it was seeing 8k rpms regularly, so I went OEM Honda. Third time was I realized that the belt I was using was incorrect, causing my cam timing to be slightly off, so I switched to the correct Honda belt. Fourth time was when my water pump blew out and dumped buckets of coolant all over, soaking the belt; I replaced it just to be safe .

Gir

which oem belt did you end up using ? How much was it ? When I did the TB on my crx engine I used one I got from napa, it had the metal in it so I figured it was ok. I constantly drive my car to redline and its fine on that belt. Think I really need the OEM belt ?

crxchris

as for clutch i would excedy the pedel feel isnt bad at all and it grabs nice and hard i only have a stage 1 and it nice as for seals like has been stated timing belt h20 pump as well and enjoy

raene

I take the stand that with timing belts, you never know there's a problem until it blows up. Only the highest quality OEM belts for me baby!

I believe I was originally using a belt from a '92-'93 Integra GSR (B17A) but this turned out to be too long, meaning I had to yoink the tensioner upwards with a coat hanger to put tension on the belt, and it was heck trying to get the cams and crank lined up (they wouldn't all line up at the same time, there was an offset on the ribs of the belt). I believe I'm now using a del Sol VTEC belt, which fit perfectly and required no coat hanger to adjust the tensioner .

Either that or it's the other way around.... I can't remember right now.... I'll check for you though .

johnzm

i reaplce the rear main, timing belt water pump spark plugs wires cap and rotor and im tkaing it to 11,000 rpm all thetime. thing loves to rev!

raene

I hope you also replaced your valves, valvesprings, retainers and cams?

I predict you will be soon otherwise!

90civichbsi

iTrader: (1)

i replaced clutch, all belts, water pump, dist cap, sparkplugs and wires, and valve cover gasket. got the motor from HMO. no leaks to this day. the head looked clean as the day it came off the showroom floor

rice_classic

Gir: since you have the motor out of the car AND the head off you might as well buy this:
http://www.inlinefour.com/topgaskit.html

When I got my motor from HMO I took to the head to a machine shop and had them check the vavle guide tolerances. All were WAY out of spec. Therefore, since I had the head at a machine shop I had them put in NEW valve guides and do a 3 way valve job.

I put on these myself:
http://www.inlinefour.com/oemhonvalsea.html
Thos are very hard to get on properly but TAKE YOUR TIME, you might even want to call the mechanics at HONDA and ask them what they use.

But trust me on the valve guides.... before I bought a b16 and did my swap I did 8 months of intensive research and I haven't heard of a SINGLE first gen b16a with valve guides that were in good shape!!

Gir

Rice_classic: Im not saying your wrong, but if valve guides were such a rampant problem, why doesnt anyone else warn about it, and why do multiple people say theyve been running for years with no problems ?
Is this something that can bite me down the road ?

RCautoworks

Here is a little list I made for someone before

Things you should think about replacing
1. Timing belt
2. Main seals, front and back
3. Water Pump
4. Distributor cap
5. Rotor
6. Clutch/throw out brearing/release bearing
7. Spark plugs
8. Spark plug wires
9. Alternator belt

Thing you will need for sure
1. Wiring harness ( http://www.hasport.com)
2. New radiator hoses
3. New throttle cable
4. New air box
5. Header ( if its cut )
6. A/c bracket from ( http://www.hasport.com )
7. Axles ( depending on which ones you get, you might need new ones )

There are other things you should replace to while the engine is out, because there hard to do when the engine is in. There also kind of in order from hardest to easiest while the engine is in and out.

raene

By the way, the correct water pump and timing belt part numbers are part #: 19200-P30-003 for the pump, Part# 14400-PR3-004 for the timing belt.

johnzm

rice classich might be right. my vale guides might be way out of spec. its nobodys fault but the person who ragged the **** out of the motor in japan. so what, my 13 year old b16 consumes some oil. its not anything im not used to. it isint anything thats never happened on 99% of every other B series motors.

BTW i repalced cams and valvesprings. thats it.

and my HMO motor had a leaking rear main. it pissed me off but i fixed it. no other leaks

WhiteDSM520

I think he may have meant valve SEALS. Valve guides rarely need to be replaced and only machine shops can machine them in. The seals are cake to replace with the head off the car. Pop the old ones off and pop the new ones in. All you need is a spring compressor.

Gir

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions everyone. this board rules.

escocrx

i got my motor from HMO.

replaced oil pump, water pump, timing belt, belt tensioner which is something over looked by alot of people, oil pan seal as u gotta take it off to change oil pump. also replaced normal maintenance items, spark plugs, plug wires stuff like that. flushed the cooling system, lube system thoroughly.

very strong motor. considering its 10+ years old.

rice_classic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WhiteDSM520 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think he may have meant valve SEALS. Valve guides rarely need to be replaced and only machine shops can machine them in. The seals are cake to replace with the head off the car. Pop the old ones off and pop the new ones in. All you need is a spring compressor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I MEANT valve guides. If their tolerances are out of spec it's not gonna bite you in the ***. Mine were out of spec and I wanted to put a motor in my car that wouldn't burn any oil and be able to be abused for a long time.

Daily driven, road trips, track days, autocross.... and I want it for more than 1.5 years. So in MY case, replacing the valve guides was a VERY GOOD IDEA.

And no, you don't hear about it very often because MOST people just want to slap a stronger motor in their car and the little details often get over looked.