LuckyStrike90

So I have a voltmeter gauge and when the car starts I am on 12V. If I turn on the lights drops to 10V. Battery is also not charging. Faulty Alternator?

oing to take it off tomorrow and take a look but just after some general info and troubleshooting tips.

Marcos Barrios

sure sounds like it
if the alternator was working you would have something above 12.6 v
and thats with everything on lights ac hazards high beams stereo at full blast you get the picture

but before ruling the bad alternater make sure to check the wiring and the fuses first
that could be the problem also

goodluck

LuckyStrike90

Ok so checked fuses and wiring today and didn't notice anything so will place the order for the alternator. It is a b20b4 with a B18c5 head using an OBD2 Alternator, I heard stock is around 90amps? Anyone confirm?

Marcos Barrios

95 amps for the b20b4 and z2

LuckyStrike90

Thanks finally pulled the old one today. Had to also remove the brake master cylinder to get it out, so looks like I will also be bleeding the brakes after I get the old one repaired or replaced.

Marcos Barrios

should of taken out threw the bottom
its alot easier

but too late now haha

LuckyStrike90

there was really no room from the bottom without removing the header, oil filter and/or possibly the axle.

LuckyStrike90

OK so well I replaced the alternator and unfortunately the same ****. So I am going to have to trace some wires further back something isn't adding up.

Marcos Barrios

it does fit threw the bottom just fine
sounds to me like you just didnt try it

trace wires back ?

you told me you checked the fuses and wiring
sounds like you really didnt do that either

when i say check the wiring i hope you dont think i mean just see if its there
no put some voltage to it and see if its making a good connection
you should always do this before buying any parts

but we all learn from out mistakes ^_-
weve all been there

LuckyStrike90

I did check fuses and wiring to the connector back the main fuse box but didn't see anything out of place.

And well I did try to get it through the bottom but as I said it just wasn't going to happen, not sure if you have had a b20 in a 90 hatch before?

What I think is happening is a pretty sever parasitic draw. I have now pulled all fuses that are not necessary to start the engine, can't start it tonight to late now but will check tomorrow. As well as now bleeding the brakes.

LuckyStrike90

Ok this saga continues, my multi-meter doesn't have AMP's so had to buy a new one. Once it arrives I will check to see how many amps draw with everything off then start pulling fuses until I see the draw drop.

And of course I bleed the rear's fine, then onto passenger side front and I stripped the bleeder nipple. So have more M10x1.25 bleeder nipples and a bleeder wrench on the way to fix that mess.

Maybe a new thread but not sure atm how I am going to get the seized and now stripped nipple out.

Tyson

bad alternator. it sohuld read 14.5, not 12V. change the alt.

the "battery light" is does not warn about the health of the battery. its a charge warning light, which is basically the alternator.

LuckyStrike90

See above already replaced Alternator.

Marcos Barrios

the brake problem is why you should of gone under the car haha

the b20 i have isnt in a hatch but its in my sedan
under the hood is the same thing thou it fits man you just have to get it at the special angle thats all ^_-
and yea your plan on the fuses is dead on
thats all you can do at this point
probebly whats going on is that theres a torn wire somewhere and it might be grounding out
but you never really know at this stage of the problems
you just have to keep tinkering ^_-

is there any aftermarket electrical stuff on the car
like a stereo
or a alarm
those could be it also

LuckyStrike90

I mean yeah if it could of come out the bottom you are right I wouldn't be dealing with the brakes issue now but at some stage I am sure of needed to bleed the system and down the road would of had to do the same anyway.

Car is really bare bones, no AC, No Radio, No Speakers, No Alarm. I should of known this was a wiring issue as I have been dealing with a mess the previous owner left behind. But yeah you are right I will find it. Going to also replace some old grounds as well.

LuckyStrike90

So I think I have it all sorted.

I got the new multi-meter and it has up to 20A test, my battery has been relocated to the trunk. Put the positive on the negative terminal and the negative on the ground wire and no amp draw? When down to 200mA and still nothing? Not sure why the test isn't working for me? Should of been something because even the hatch was open at the time.

Plan B
I wanted to simplify things a bit more so I took out the Monster tach, the aem wideband (sensor is fried anyway, have a new one but not going in until new headers are in)
I had many extra fuses that aren't needed like Sunroof (car doesn't have 1), heater again doesn't work (don't care yet) and then extra fuses in blank spots. Pulled all these and voltage drop seems to have settled a little.

I am now showing more like 12.6 on the gauge so on the improve and battery charge seems to be holding better now. Hopefully the issue is solved.

P.S Managed to unseize the brake bleeder nipple as well so brakes all bleed and that issue solved now as well.

Marcos Barrios

nice!! so your up to 12.6 volts now
if thats with the car off then thats great man
with the car on it should be above 13 volts 14 if its perfect