89 Crx HF Main relay clicking, won't start.
07-22-2014, 12:57 PM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
89 Crx HF Main relay clicking, won't start.
i was driving on the highway and suddenly the car dies. i turn the key off and back on and notice the main relay clicking. changed it out with a known good one and still clicks.
i upgraded to obd1 a couple of years ago so the car has a chipped obd1 ecu and a conversion harness. i also have a conversion harness on the distributor and an obd1 distributor.
i tried swapping the ecu with a known good one and i still get the problem.
any ideas about what to try next?
i upgraded to obd1 a couple of years ago so the car has a chipped obd1 ecu and a conversion harness. i also have a conversion harness on the distributor and an obd1 distributor.
i tried swapping the ecu with a known good one and i still get the problem.
any ideas about what to try next?
07-22-2014, 01:46 PM
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
07-22-2014, 01:56 PM
#4
Re: 89 Crx HF Main relay clicking, won't start.
Same issue from here?
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/main-relay-clicking-really-fast-suspected-obd0-obd1-harness-3199505/
I'll search and see if I can remember anything. I know mine clicked really fast. I don't remember what was wrong.
Is the trans ground still good? Valve cover?
I'm nearly positive it is a ground issue. Trace all of them you can. Everything I've read says it is a grounding issue.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/main-relay-clicking-really-fast-suspected-obd0-obd1-harness-3199505/
I'll search and see if I can remember anything. I know mine clicked really fast. I don't remember what was wrong.
Is the trans ground still good? Valve cover?
I'm nearly positive it is a ground issue. Trace all of them you can. Everything I've read says it is a grounding issue.
07-22-2014, 02:19 PM
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: 89 Crx HF Main relay clicking, won't start.
Same issue from here?
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3199505
I'll search and see if I can remember anything. I know mine clicked really fast. I don't remember what was wrong.
Is the trans ground still good? Valve cover?
I'm nearly positive it is a ground issue. Trace all of them you can. Everything I've read says it is a grounding issue.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3199505
I'll search and see if I can remember anything. I know mine clicked really fast. I don't remember what was wrong.
Is the trans ground still good? Valve cover?
I'm nearly positive it is a ground issue. Trace all of them you can. Everything I've read says it is a grounding issue.
i'll check all my grounds and see what happens. thanks.
07-23-2014, 09:34 AM
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: 89 Crx HF Main relay clicking, won't start.
if it's just a ground, that seems like an easy fix. i could just add a ground from the ecu straight to the chassis somewhere.
edit:
ok, i found this post on clubcivic. looks like exactly my problem. i'm gonna go try it!
go to your harness at the ecu find the A2 A4 A16 A18 grounds for your main relay and ecu take all four and tap into them dont cut but splice a wire in for each one and ground to one of the ten mil bolts that hold your ecu in. it might just be one of them but extra grouning never hurt anything. I had the same clicking problem car would not start all ground under hood were in place did this and car fired right up and ran fine. still like that today
A2 MAIN RELAY GROUND
A4 MAIN RELAY GROUND
A16 ECU GROUND
A18 ECU GROUND
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07-23-2014, 09:39 AM
#8
Re: 89 Crx HF Main relay clicking, won't start.
You can test the ECU grounds by finding the pinout and directly grounding those pins. If it starts to function, you've found your issue.
Alternatively,
You can unplug the wiring harness and check the resistance between the pin and a chassis ground. Since it 'should' be grounded, it should be measureable. If it is open, you've found your broken wire.
A23, A24, A25 seem to be your best bet to find your broken ground wire.
EDIT:
Is that OBD0 or OBD1? Either way will work since you have a conversion harness. Just make sure you are checking the appropriate side of the harness. You could have a bad wire within the harness too!
Alternatively,
You can unplug the wiring harness and check the resistance between the pin and a chassis ground. Since it 'should' be grounded, it should be measureable. If it is open, you've found your broken wire.
A23, A24, A25 seem to be your best bet to find your broken ground wire.
A1-INJ1 INJECTOR#1 Brown, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A2-INJ4 INJECTOR#4 Yellow, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A3-INJ2 INJECTOR#2 Red, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A4-VTS VTEC solenoid GRN/YEL, n/a
A5-INJ3 INJECTOR#3 Blue, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A6-PO2SHTC O2 sensor heating element Org/Wht, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A7-FLR1 fuel pump Grn/BLK, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A8-empty A7 and A8 have the same circurt, so they can be the same
A9-IACV IAC valve Blk/Blu, About 10v KOEO on Warm engine
A10-empty
A11-EGR Control Solenoid Valve (if the ECU has it) Red, n/a
A12-FANC engine coolant temp switch Blu/red, n/a
A13-MIL MIL (check engine light) Blu/wht, n/a
A14-empty
A15-ACC (a/c compressor clutch) Red/Blu, n/a
A16-ALT C alternator Wht/Grn, n/a
A17-IAB IAB Solenoid Pink, n/a
A18-Org/Red, Transmission Control Module (A/T), n/a
A19-White, Intake control solenoid, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A20-PCS EVAP purge control solenoid Red/Grn, n/a
A21-ICM Yel/Grn, Ignition Control Module output signal, About 10V KOEO
A22-Igniter, same as A21
A23-PG1 ground Black, Power ground, less than 1V
A24-PG2 ground same as A23
A25-IGP2 to main relay and to ground Yel/blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A26-LG1 gound Blk/red, less than 1V
B1-IGP2 to pin A25 Yel/Blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
B2-LG2 ground to shields for CYP & TDC Brown/Blk, <1V
B3-Orange, upshift/downshift comparative input, n/a
B4-Pink, upshift/downshift comparative input, n/a
B5-ACS a/c switch Blu/Blk, a/c input, ~5V with KOEO & A/C off; <1V KOER with A/C & blower on
B6-empty
B7-Light green, Park/Neutral switch (A/T), <1V in Park or Neutral with KOEO; 5V in Park or neutral with KOER; Battery voltage in all other positions
B8-PSPSW PSP switch Red/Green, Power steering oil pressure switch, 0V KOEO; Battery Voltage KOER While slowly turning steering wheel
B9-STARTER SIGNAL starter signal Blue/red, Battery Voltage in the START position (clutch depressed on M/T models)
B10-VSS vehicle speed sensor Orange, Pulses 0-12V while turning the left front wheel
B11-CYP P CYP(#1 piston position) -P Orange, CYP sensor input, n/a
B12-CYP M CYP -M White, CYP sensor signal, n/a
B13-TDC P TDC(top dead ceter) -P Org/Blue, TDC sensor input, n/a
B14-TDC M TDC -M Wht/Blue, TDC sensor signal, n/a
B15-CKP P CKP(crank position) -P Blu/Green, CKP Sensor input, n/a
B16-CKP M CKP -M Blu/yel, CKP Sensor signal, n/a
D1-VBU Back Up Power Wht/Yel, Battery positive From battery through Fuse Box, Battery Voltage at ALL times
D2-BKSW brake switch Grn/wht, Battery voltage at all times
D3-KS Knock Sensor Red/Blue, n/a
D4-SCS service check connector Brown/Wht, ~5V (M/T); ~11V (A/T)
D5-empty
D6-VTM VTEC pressure switch Light Blue, n/a
D7-TXD/RXD (data link connector) Light Green/Red, n/a
D8-empty
D9-ALT F alternator Wht/Red, Alternator Charging Signal, ~4.5V KOEO; Decreases under Electrical load (Headlights & rear defogger on) At warm idle
D10-ELD electric load detector input Grn/Blk, n/a
D11-TPS (throttle position sensor) Signal Red/Blk, ~0.5V KOEO with throttle fully closed; ~4.5V KOEO with throttle fully open
D12-Wht/Blk, EGR Valve Lift sensor, ~1.2V KOEO
D13-ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor input Yel/Blu, ~5V KOEO (varies with temperature)
D14-PHO2S O2 sensor White, heated 02 sensor Signal, 0.4-0.5V when ignition is turned on; drops to less than 0.1V within 2 minutes
D15-IAT Intake Air Temperature sensor signal Red/Yel, .05-4.5V KOEO(Varies with temperature)
D16-VREF (no info)
D17-MAP Map Signal Wht/Blu, ~3V KOEO (Varies with Temperature)
D18-Light Green/Blk, Transmission Control Module (A/T Only), n/a
D19-Red/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
D20-Yel/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
D21-Blue/Wht, Sensor ground, <1V
D22-Green/Wht, Sensor ground, <1V
A2-INJ4 INJECTOR#4 Yellow, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A3-INJ2 INJECTOR#2 Red, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A4-VTS VTEC solenoid GRN/YEL, n/a
A5-INJ3 INJECTOR#3 Blue, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A6-PO2SHTC O2 sensor heating element Org/Wht, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A7-FLR1 fuel pump Grn/BLK, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A8-empty A7 and A8 have the same circurt, so they can be the same
A9-IACV IAC valve Blk/Blu, About 10v KOEO on Warm engine
A10-empty
A11-EGR Control Solenoid Valve (if the ECU has it) Red, n/a
A12-FANC engine coolant temp switch Blu/red, n/a
A13-MIL MIL (check engine light) Blu/wht, n/a
A14-empty
A15-ACC (a/c compressor clutch) Red/Blu, n/a
A16-ALT C alternator Wht/Grn, n/a
A17-IAB IAB Solenoid Pink, n/a
A18-Org/Red, Transmission Control Module (A/T), n/a
A19-White, Intake control solenoid, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A20-PCS EVAP purge control solenoid Red/Grn, n/a
A21-ICM Yel/Grn, Ignition Control Module output signal, About 10V KOEO
A22-Igniter, same as A21
A23-PG1 ground Black, Power ground, less than 1V
A24-PG2 ground same as A23
A25-IGP2 to main relay and to ground Yel/blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A26-LG1 gound Blk/red, less than 1V
B1-IGP2 to pin A25 Yel/Blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
B2-LG2 ground to shields for CYP & TDC Brown/Blk, <1V
B3-Orange, upshift/downshift comparative input, n/a
B4-Pink, upshift/downshift comparative input, n/a
B5-ACS a/c switch Blu/Blk, a/c input, ~5V with KOEO & A/C off; <1V KOER with A/C & blower on
B6-empty
B7-Light green, Park/Neutral switch (A/T), <1V in Park or Neutral with KOEO; 5V in Park or neutral with KOER; Battery voltage in all other positions
B8-PSPSW PSP switch Red/Green, Power steering oil pressure switch, 0V KOEO; Battery Voltage KOER While slowly turning steering wheel
B9-STARTER SIGNAL starter signal Blue/red, Battery Voltage in the START position (clutch depressed on M/T models)
B10-VSS vehicle speed sensor Orange, Pulses 0-12V while turning the left front wheel
B11-CYP P CYP(#1 piston position) -P Orange, CYP sensor input, n/a
B12-CYP M CYP -M White, CYP sensor signal, n/a
B13-TDC P TDC(top dead ceter) -P Org/Blue, TDC sensor input, n/a
B14-TDC M TDC -M Wht/Blue, TDC sensor signal, n/a
B15-CKP P CKP(crank position) -P Blu/Green, CKP Sensor input, n/a
B16-CKP M CKP -M Blu/yel, CKP Sensor signal, n/a
D1-VBU Back Up Power Wht/Yel, Battery positive From battery through Fuse Box, Battery Voltage at ALL times
D2-BKSW brake switch Grn/wht, Battery voltage at all times
D3-KS Knock Sensor Red/Blue, n/a
D4-SCS service check connector Brown/Wht, ~5V (M/T); ~11V (A/T)
D5-empty
D6-VTM VTEC pressure switch Light Blue, n/a
D7-TXD/RXD (data link connector) Light Green/Red, n/a
D8-empty
D9-ALT F alternator Wht/Red, Alternator Charging Signal, ~4.5V KOEO; Decreases under Electrical load (Headlights & rear defogger on) At warm idle
D10-ELD electric load detector input Grn/Blk, n/a
D11-TPS (throttle position sensor) Signal Red/Blk, ~0.5V KOEO with throttle fully closed; ~4.5V KOEO with throttle fully open
D12-Wht/Blk, EGR Valve Lift sensor, ~1.2V KOEO
D13-ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor input Yel/Blu, ~5V KOEO (varies with temperature)
D14-PHO2S O2 sensor White, heated 02 sensor Signal, 0.4-0.5V when ignition is turned on; drops to less than 0.1V within 2 minutes
D15-IAT Intake Air Temperature sensor signal Red/Yel, .05-4.5V KOEO(Varies with temperature)
D16-VREF (no info)
D17-MAP Map Signal Wht/Blu, ~3V KOEO (Varies with Temperature)
D18-Light Green/Blk, Transmission Control Module (A/T Only), n/a
D19-Red/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
D20-Yel/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
D21-Blue/Wht, Sensor ground, <1V
D22-Green/Wht, Sensor ground, <1V
edit:
ok, i found this post on clubcivic. looks like exactly my problem. i'm gonna go try it!
go to your harness at the ecu find the A2 A4 A16 A18 grounds for your main relay and ecu take all four and tap into them dont cut but splice a wire in for each one and ground to one of the ten mil bolts that hold your ecu in. it might just be one of them but extra grouning never hurt anything. I had the same clicking problem car would not start all ground under hood were in place did this and car fired right up and ran fine. still like that today
A2 MAIN RELAY GROUND
A4 MAIN RELAY GROUND
A16 ECU GROUND
A18 ECU GROUND
ok, i found this post on clubcivic. looks like exactly my problem. i'm gonna go try it!
go to your harness at the ecu find the A2 A4 A16 A18 grounds for your main relay and ecu take all four and tap into them dont cut but splice a wire in for each one and ground to one of the ten mil bolts that hold your ecu in. it might just be one of them but extra grouning never hurt anything. I had the same clicking problem car would not start all ground under hood were in place did this and car fired right up and ran fine. still like that today
A2 MAIN RELAY GROUND
A4 MAIN RELAY GROUND
A16 ECU GROUND
A18 ECU GROUND
Last edited by Freemananana; 07-23-2014 at 10:32 AM.
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