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Looks like you’re not rotated enough for the cam gear alignment
What that mean? 🤔
My concern is it looks like the exhaust cam is roughly 1/2 tooth more advanced than the intake cam. Maybe a whole tooth even. But if that were the case, wouldn’t it run like crap?
Nope I’ll need to align the timing mark on the crank to see which cam gear is off. Was just trying to get them both aligned straight up for adjusting the valves, but appears one is off a tooth.
OK I think I got the timing figured out. Once I found true TDC the cam gears are much closer to aligning their notches.
I was too concerned with the “up” spokes pointing straight up.
I finished the valve adjustment, several on the exhaust side were too loose. I am hoping this quiets down the valve train a bit.
Planning to drive her tomorrow when its supposed to hit 65 here! So we shall see.
New fuel strainer works like a charm! I drove down to the gas station with hardly 1/4 tank of gas in it and it drove fine, no sputters. Usually it would start to sputter randomly at about 1/2 tank, so I am pretty pleased with that!
Now I have some godawful exhaust rattles though after dropping the tank, I think I bent the rear heat shield while putting the tank back in. I am considering just going to open downpipe and ditching the exhaust. It is such a pain between the rattling, scraping on the ground, and I'm sure it weighs a good amount. Only problem is there is no good way for me to convert to open DP without cutting it before the flex pipe. Otherwise, the only bolted joint is right below the fire wall, which I am sure would be the worst possible place to have it dump
Oh, and while datalogging my drive today I did a pull up to the rev limiter. At only 13.3psi and 11.2:1 AFR, it said I was at 97% duty cycle!!!
I am not sure how that's possible. These are 1000cc injectors, and yeah while the A/F was a little rich, this car used to run at 17psi. Not sure if Smanager is miscalculating my duty, but I might back down the boost a little more just to be safe.
Could the new turbo really be that much more efficient that I am using all that fuel with 4 less pounds of boost?
Went through all your posts, the car looks very good, I am just starting out with mine. I am sure I will be looking at your posts often and getting ideas. . My plan is to get all the worn out parts updated/upgraded and get the engine/tranny swap done, and then when all the basics are out of the way, see where I want to go next with it.
Went through all your posts, the car looks very good, I am just starting out with mine. I am sure I will be looking at your posts often and getting ideas. . My plan is to get all the worn out parts updated/upgraded and get the engine/tranny swap done, and then when all the basics are out of the way, see where I want to go next with it.
Excellent! I am happy to support in any way that I can.
Even though I've been in the Honda game for about 15 years, I too am just learning as I go with this monstrosity
Have any pictures of other Honda's you have built over the years that you are proud of?
Unfortunately not a lot of pics left, would have to probably go through old computers or digital cameras to find them. I used to document everything on my del sol build on solsociety.com forums, which vanished long ago, so all of that has been lost
Here is my old '96 del sol, turboed D16Y8 build with a t25. Super fun, torquey low end and steep power curve. This was my baby for several years, and it really was an immaculate car other than the ricey bits. But hey, I started building it when I was 15 so what would you expect?
And here is the CRZ I had when I lived in FL. Was mostly cosmetic mods, coilovers, and played around with some extreme wheel fitments. There wasn't much you could do to them performance-wise, although I was on a wait list for a Bisimoto turbo kit at one point before they scrapped that project.
Both are clean builds! Great looking CRZ! Personally, I was obsessed with them until they announced that they will not have a Si model with a k20 . Clean little kit on the delsol, digging the hx manifold haha
Yeah the y8 was a super low budget build but was also super effective. Ran 10-12psi on a bone stock engine for a number of years and about 40k miles. Bought the entire kit used off some guy for $1500 and tuned it myself on crome.
Back on the CRX, I just picked up my wheels with the new Toyo r1r’s mounted on them. Hoping to get em bolted up tonight and break em in tomorrow :D
The new 225/45 action. Glad to have some meat back on the front!
Why is it that anytime I get new tires, I drop off nice clean wheels, and when I pick them up after they are covered with filth and sticky ****? :
Wont get to drive it til tomorrow, hoping like hell this will finally resolve my shaking problem. If it does, I will be so ecstatic... you guys have no idea. This has haunted me ever since I’ve owned the car and made me want to give up many times!
But, after all the things I’ve tried already, not getting my hopes up anymore
All I can think now is possibly engine mounts? I've had them all apart before and everything looked good, so idk what could be the issue. Unless something on the rear mount or subframe that it bolts to is broken that I haven't noticed. Would just seem hard to miss something like that. Or maybe the bushings are just worn out in them.
I think I am going to order a set of new Hasport mounts. The ones in the car currently are no-name, certainly ebay or some cheap alternative. Fingers crossed!
Edit: Just ordered the Hasport EFB1 mounts. Hoping they bolt right in, and that it's possible to do without pulling the engine completely since I have no lifting mechanism. I'm determined to get these damn things installed one way or another...
A jack under the engine to support it and you will be fine. The rear will be a pain in the *** though
Can you describe the "shaking" more in depth?
I had this issue on a customers CRV once, after replacing the drivers side axel 3 times, I learned that every aftermarket axel I installed from that run was bent/misbalanced. Installed a OEM axel, that solved the low mph shake.
A jack under the engine to support it and you will be fine. The rear will be a pain in the *** though
Can you describe the "shaking" more in depth?
I had this issue on a customers CRV once, after replacing the drivers side axel 3 times, I learned that every aftermarket axel I installed from that run was bent/misbalanced. Installed a OEM axel, that solved the low mph shake.
Sure. It comes on at roughly 30-45mph, so when in 2nd gear mostly and right after hitting 3rd gear during normal driving. Feels just like bad tire bounce, except that it gets stronger with the more throttle I give it, until finally as the RPM and speed increases it smooths out. So basically the car sucks to drive anywhere in that speed range, especially in 2nd which I hate because that should be the most fun gear.
Sometimes the shaking is hardly noticeable, and sometimes it is violent. Seems to get worse as the car warms up fully. Also, anytime after I have the car jacked up, wheels off working on something, and put it back together, the first drive it always seems to go away almost completely at first. But after driving for about 10 minutes, it always comes back in full force.
I suspected axles at first too. It was happening with the "OEM" set that the previous owner had just put in before I bought the car. I since have put in two new aftermarket sets, one 86-89 integra set that is slightly shorter, and one set for the 90-91 integra. So if there was a defect in a batch, these should have been from different batches being that they are different P/N's. The issue presents itself in exactly the same way with all of them.
I am thinking motor mounts now mainly because the throttle effects the shaking more than anything else. It also shakes quite a bit when taking off from a stop when the clutch starts to grab. The mounts in the car do look really cheap. The bushings are 2-pieces on each mount, that only insert into the steel part maybe 1/2" on each side, then there is a long steel spacer that goes thru the middle where it bolts in. I thought most of the aftermarket mount bushings go all the way thru the mount.
Also the previous owner had a custom solid front mount that he had made, which probably caused a lot of extra stress and wear on the other 3 mounts.
I'd have no idea how to check if thats what it is, but maybe.
Jack the car up, then pull the wheel side to side feeling for any movement in your wheel bearing. I don't feel that this is the issue, plus it generally makes a ton of noise once they start to go out.
It could be the mounts, that would make sense. I have had the same old trusty Hasports for 12 years now with zero issues!
Jack the car up, then pull the wheel side to side feeling for any movement in your wheel bearing. I don't feel that this is the issue, plus it generally makes a ton of noise once they start to go out.
It could be the mounts, that would make sense. I have had the same old trusty Hasports for 12 years now with zero issues!
Yeah, being that it is a somewhat intermittent issue, I wouldn't think that a bent or out-of-balance rotating part could be causing it either. Seems like something more dynamic is in play. I think the mounts are a good bet, and if it's not them then it will be a worthwhile upgrade anyway
I went with the 62A street hardness for the bushings. I've heard they are still pretty stiff. What hardness are you running?
Yeah, being that it is a somewhat intermittent issue, I wouldn't think that a bent or out-of-balance rotating part could be causing it either. Seems like something more dynamic is in play. I think the mounts are a good bet, and if it's not them then it will be a worthwhile upgrade anyway
I went with the 62A street hardness for the bushings. I've heard they are still pretty stiff. What hardness are you running?
Same, it feels like the perfect hardness for street use. Your mirrors will shake at idle, but I have never had any issues with the motor bouncing around hitting the hood or anything. However, the most hp my crx has ever made is 180 haha.
Should be good for me then. I’ve read that the 60a are good for up to 400hp. With my street tune I’ll probably only be around 350, and I’m trying to do little things to make the car as “comfortable” to drive as I can.
In other news, I did quite a few pulls today during a long drive, got everything good and heat soaked. Went back out to pull it in the garage a bit later and the starter wouldn’t crank again
It was getting power, and when I jumped it to the under hood fuse box it came back to life. I am wondering if my 16ga starter signal wire is too small to deliver enough current when it’s hot or something.
Should be good for me then. I’ve read that the 60a are good for up to 400hp. With my street tune I’ll probably only be around 350, and I’m trying to do little things to make the car as “comfortable” to drive as I can.
In other news, I did quite a few pulls today during a long drive, got everything good and heat soaked. Went back out to pull it in the garage a bit later and the starter wouldn’t crank again
It was getting power, and when I jumped it to the under hood fuse box it came back to life. I am wondering if my 16ga starter signal wire is too small to deliver enough current when it’s hot or something.
I have this same issue and still have not solved what causes it Lets both try thicker gauge wire
I have this same issue and still have not solved what causes it Lets both try thicker gauge wire
Yeah I am thinking my power source may not be direct enough since jumping it still worked. May remove my kill switch and go up to 10ga wire straight from the ignition.
If that fails I just go straight from the battery with a relay or something lol
04-21-2018, 06:33 AM
Re: 1991 CRX Turbo B18 project/build thread
. My plan is to get all the worn out parts updated/upgraded and get the engine/tranny swap done, and then when all the basics are out of the way, see where I want to go next with it.
Lets both try thicker gauge wire