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I saw that other older thread where someone was talking about remaking them, and I had the same idea about a year ago - designing a board and having OSH Park fab the board, but I didn't think about the IC's being impossible to find other than harvesting from old boards...that's a bummer.
Yep, it's one of the problems that the few people keeping these older cars on the road are going to start to face. With all the oem parts being discontinued, and good condition replacements becoming more rare, we'll have to get creative.
The pedal assembly is another thing that I was thinking about. People on ebay already want $200+ for one of them, and it looks like failure is almost certain after a given lifetime. Looking at the OEM bracket, I am confident I could recreate the entire thing out of some 1/4" grade 50 sheet steel in probably a day or two. Surprised nobody has done this yet, except that the market must be small. But if people will pay $200 for a 30yr old OEM one, I wonder what they'd pay for nice aftermarket upgrade that would never fail.
So far I have everything on order that I need to get the car back together. I ordered an Exedy clutch cable, PN CC660. Since they supply most of the OEMs in Japan with these components, I figure it should be of decent quality. Guess we'll see when it gets here.
Pretty sure I have a pedal assembly in my garage since I started hoarding them after all my past issues. I'll ship it to you for half that if you want a used one thats not bent or broken.
Pretty sure I have a pedal assembly in my garage since I started hoarding them after all my past issues. I'll ship it to you for half that if you want a used one thats not bent or broken.
Here is what I am workin with now
We'll see if it holds! I might be taking you up on that offer at some point lol
that will get you back on the road for the next 5 years easy
make sure you paint it before you put it back in
that way it will last you another 8 years ^_-
that will get you back on the road for the next 5 years easy
make sure you paint it before you put it back in
that way it will last you another 8 years ^_-
Laid some thick primer then paint on it last night, after wire-wheeling the welds and everything as clean as I could, then finishing off the whole thing with brake clean.
I agree I think I should be good for a while. Probably overdid it with the 1/4" thick reinforcements but oh well
Those nuts get extra fun to put in once you get all those brackets welded in haha.
LOL it was fun I managed to get lucky, could still get every nut on with a socket and extension. No swivel necessary!
The pedal assembly is back in and hooked up. The clutch pedal feels amazing. It works so smoothly now, no creaks or pops or squeaks, which I always thought was the cable or just the nature of the beast. I can't wait to drive it!
Still gotta put the steering column back in, then fix up all the wiring. Got a nice clean ICU from someone on FB for $50.
Been working my *** off to get as many things done as possible while we are having a couple weeks of rain and crappy weather. It started as a few small projects in addition to fixing the pedal assembly, since I had the fuse box pulled anyway I decided to fix up some wiring.
Not much if it is pic-worthy.
1. Got pedals reinstalled
2. Had steering column out already, so I replaced the turn signal switch. Seems to have fixed my problem.
3. Also replaced the ignition switch again, since the last one was still spliced into for fuel pump and some other things. Wanted a clean one and rewired things properly through fuse box, which led to...
4. Relayed my fuel pump, gets power straight from battery now. Will make things easier if/when I upgrade pumps.
5. Moved gauges down to my CF vent cover panel. Looks pretty good.
6. Everything getting power box through fuse taps in my box now, no more wires shoved under fuses. Makes me feel better about it, also going back to solder connections where I had rushed before and used butt connectors. This has been the most time consuming.
7. Replacement ICU and clutch cable still on the way, will get those swapped in once they arrive.
8. Got the rear interior cleaned up and starting masking for paint. I probably need to put in about 6-8 hours more prep work before I paint it if I want it to turn out nice. Hopefully will be ready to drive again next week.
Heres this. Just need to get a fuel pressure gauge.
If it's the capacitors that leak and destroy the board, you may want to think about replacing them while you've got it out.
I'm not sure if it's capacitors leaking, or what causes them to fail. I read somewhere that certain components get too hot, so as a preventive measure you can drill extra vent holes in the case. I am going to do this on both of mine.
All I know is this one does not look to be damaged at all yet, and the one I've been using appears damaged but still seems to function fine. I'm going to tuck that one away as a spare, vent this new one and run it.
I def don't trust myself to be soldering on a circuit board
Not a pro paint job, just prepped the surfaces enough for decent adhesion, got rid of all surface rust and sealed it up. Got a new battery tie down setup I’m gonna throw in, then putting interior pieces back together
Slow progress, but car is driveable again with the battery back in. Slowly piecing the rear interior back together, and getting the inside all cleaned up for the first time as I go.
Some new brackets I found to mount the battery more securely, and 1/2” rubber pad for underneath. Got her mounted up. Finally got pedal pads on my brake and clutch. They’ve been bare metal since I got the car I know my carpet needs clean, I’m gettin there.
LOL is it that big? Maybe the pic is deceiving, but yeah it is the battery that came with the car and is 540CCA. 8 years old and still works fine
The mats and carpet are actually in great shape, just needs a good detailing. Altogether the interior is "good enough" for me. I'll work on the exterior before I worry about upgrading any of that.
Originally Posted by Marcos Barrios
getting more and more complete everyday ^_^
making good progress bro
Why thanks
If only the weather would decide to be more accommodating! But at least with all this extra garage time I am getting a boatload of crap done. Got my manifold heat wrapped again yesterday.
Fixing the clutch pedal made such an improvement, it almost feels like having a whole new transmission with how easy it shifts now. It was always really notchy, sometimes hard to shift and the clutch felt crappy, so I just thought the tranny was bad or worn out. Turns out it was the bendy clutch pedal all along
After putting everything back together, the car is running super rich. I don't know if it's the batch of E85 I filled up with last, or if somehow rewiring my fuel pump would be putting out that much more fuel. I don't imagine the pump would be the cause, especially at idle/cruising it should have had no problem maintaining the pressure before. But now it is pegged at -20% trim at idle and I've reduced my overall trim by 8% already.
Another thought, which I hope isn't the case, is that when I moved my gauges I had to splice the wires on my wideband together. I soldered them properly so it shouldn't be an issue, but I wonder if just having that splice in the wire would change the voltage reading enough to cause it to read rich So now I'm nervous to trust my wideband when it seems so far off.
I reduced the overall fuel trim by 8% and everything is perfect again
Driving home today was probably the most fun I've had with the car yet. Everything just works. Forgot to mention before, but the new turn signal switch fixed that problem. The clutch feels great and it shifts awesome now. I heat wrapped the manifold again, and now my temps stayed between 183-188 for 50 miles of driving.
It's so nice not having to worry about all that stuff, and just being able to enjoy the drive.
Got her first wash of the year today. It's been really tough to get the car out much at with all the cold and rain so far
I also figured out some of my fueling issue. The way I set up my injector dead times, they were compensating for low voltage to the fuel pump before I relayed it. When I would sit at idle and have a high electrical load where my voltage drops to around 12, the pump before must have been struggling. I did not consider this, and I adjusted my dead times to maintain the AFR.
Now that my pump gets good power at all times, my injectors were overcompensating at low voltage at idle.
I lowered the car back down, vibrations be damned! I'm saving up for a set of Raxles. Until then, when it starts to shake I'll just give it more gas til it stops
Also got the interior pretty clean, probably for the first time ever. Not sure I've shared a pic of the interior before, but I'm happy with it. It says something that I have so few things to work on that I'm spending time detailing the car
Still need to hook up my ethanol sensor and boost controller, but just want to get things right before I do that and have to mess with it a bunch more. After these items are done I really don't know what I'm going to focus on next
I'm considering finding another set of wheels, maybe a deeper dish mesh style or something old school with a lower offset. Wanting a dark grey or bronze wheel with a lip so I can change it up.
The interior looks nice and tidy. Has your dash cracked yet? My EF's dash has cracked beside the left "rib" that's over the center vents.
I'm hoping to get some bronze rota slips for my EG after the turbo goes on. I think the bronze against the purple paint will look good. I do love some oldschool meshes though!
I just tested out my ethanol sensor last night - reading 10.2, so that's a good sign! I've still got to wire it into Hondata...maybe this weekend. It feels weird not having a list of things to do, right?
One question - did raising the back of your hood up help lower your under-hood temps? How did you raise it up like that? I'm just fishing for ideas to help keep things cool once I do get the turbo on. I'm already planning for a turbo blanket, cerakoting the hot side of the turbo and the manifold (cast), and wrapping the down pipe.
The interior looks nice and tidy. Has your dash cracked yet? My EF's dash has cracked beside the left "rib" that's over the center vents.
I'm hoping to get some bronze rota slips for my EG after the turbo goes on. I think the bronze against the purple paint will look good. I do love some oldschool meshes though!
I just tested out my ethanol sensor last night - reading 10.2, so that's a good sign! I've still got to wire it into Hondata...maybe this weekend. It feels weird not having a list of things to do, right?
One question - did raising the back of your hood up help lower your under-hood temps? How did you raise it up like that? I'm just fishing for ideas to help keep things cool once I do get the turbo on. I'm already planning for a turbo blanket, cerakoting the hot side of the turbo and the manifold (cast), and wrapping the down pipe.
My dash has not cracked yet! Surprising for a Florida car, but it must have been garaged most of its life. Interior is not too worn or faded.
I think those wheels will look awesome! Honestly you almost can't go wrong with slips, they're just so classic and look good on almost anything. Considering just painting mine grey or gold. For my mesh set I am thinking of getting some 16's with skinnier tires as they will be my "show" wheels, then I'll keep this set as my "go" wheels.
To raise my hood I just got the thread pitch from the hood bolts, went to the hardware store and got some bolts that were 3/4" longer than the OEM ones, and got some 3/4" steel bushings that fit over the bolts to use as the spacers. It cost me less than $10. As for underhood temps, all I can say is when my cooling fan is on you can feel hot air rushing out from under the hood where its propped up, it's like opening the door on my oven. I think that combined with all of my other "keep-cool" mods, it does it's part to keep heat soak to a minimum.
Stopped by a body shop to get a rough estimate on fixing my driver's door wrinkle. He quoted me $850
And he said it might end up being closer to $1000 with blending. Sooo, I am definitely going to need to find a good condition driver's door. Haven't seen many for sale that have no rust or dings. Y'all keep an eye out for me
04-01-2019, 10:07 AM
Re: 1991 CRX Turbo B18 project/build thread
I know my carpet needs clean, I’m gettin there. 
So now I'm nervous to trust my wideband when it seems so far off.
