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Time to buy a barrel of E, so you can mix it yourself.
The struggle of fuel consistency is most of the reason I'm sticking to pump for now.
I'm glad you are really starting to have some fun with the car, you really earned it!
I actually spent a lot of time today researching the costs of buying Ignite e85 and e98 barrels lol.
What I’ve determined is that, while it would be nice for the consistency, it wouldn’t be worth it when it comes out to around $8 per gallon. I drive too much and only get about 20mpg average on e85. It would cost me about $25 in gas each day I drive to work :lol:
So I think I will try tuning on a flex fuel sensor and see how that goes. I also need to get a boost solenoid asap, since this tank of gas is requiring about 5% more duty I am maxing out my injectors if it spikes above 17psi at all.
I think I might actually have some kind of restriction in the fuel system, or a failing fuel pump. Using an OEM filter that could be getting clogged.
Anyway I had good AFR's yesterday afternoon. Get in the car this morning, do a quick pull and it was in the 12's again in high cam. I keep adding fuel to the map and it refuses to richen up.
I finally got the exhaust note where I am happy with it. I cut off the rear magnaflow, and left the exhaust terminating just after the rear control arm and pointing out the back. This gave me the rumble I was looking for, but without the resonance inside the cabin at highway speeds that I had with the turn down under the car. I will probably leave it alone now until I eventually get a new manifold setup, then I want to have a side of bumper exit pipe like boosted94gsr has.
Looks stealthy too.
I figured out the fueling issue.... was actually a boost control issue. Silly me for not datalogging to know how much boost I was running, but it kept going up to 18psi even after I adjusted the boost controller, causing the injectors to max out.
I did the responsible thing, and turned the boost down to a safer level of 15-16psi for now until I can upgrade the fuel system. Still has plenty of power, breaks tires loose in 3rd gear so I'm not too concerned.
Over this winter I might do some fueling upgrades, just so it is not the limiting factor anymore. Walbro 450 pump, ~2000cc injectors, an adjustable FPR, new fuel lines and a filter from Fuelab is my plan.
Cool! Glad you figured the issue out right away. We ran a 255, 1000cc injectors, made 450hp all day without running out of injector so 2000's might be super overkill haha.
I have been meaning to ask you, what was that EF fuel pump strainer that was special? My race team (MyriadMotorsports) rally car CRX has been having breakup fuel issues for years, even after doing full stand alone, along with COP (Motec), turned out to be that exact issue...... #killself
What was that part number and where can I get it for when I toss a walbro in my CRX and put another in the rally CRX? haha
They don’t look like that much difference, but sho nuff I’ve been able to run my tank to E now without ever getting a sputter where it used to always cut out at half tank. These do the trick
Yeah I am thinking way ahead with the fuel system, I want it to be able to handle 600+ in case I ever decide to throw in a sleeved block in the future. I am surprised I am maxing out the 1000cc’s at 18psi though, it could be making close to 450hp, hard to say
I’d like to stick with FIC injectors but not too sure. One thing I don’t like is they did not provide me dead times at various voltages, only at 13.5v so I was left figuring out the rest. I think their sizes go from 1850cc to 2150cc or something like that. Might look into ID2000’s.
Random side note that may or may not be relevant to you, but don't forget that ethanol/E85 can and will clog paper filters.
Yeah, I had put in a new OEM filter last year as a bandaid to make sure it wasn't causing my problems, which ended up being the corrupted tune... but I would like to go with a stainless 10 micron filter if I can find one. Looks like the Fuelab stainless ones only come in 40 micron. Haven't looked that hard into it yet.
Thank you sir! I ordered two strainers, I appreciate the help! My old Precision 1000cc's have had issues idiling with every setup I have tuned them with including last night (91) so take that for what it is
Well gents, my second season with the car is already coming to an end. Amazing how quickly it passes.
The car has ran great all year with no major hiccups. I drive it almost daily (weather permitting) and have put over 2000 miles on the clock this year!
No major updates, but figured it was deserving of some good regular maintenance. New plugs, fresh oil and switching to Torco RTF in the trans. Front rotors also needed replaced, and I know the drilled ones are frowned upon but I figured I’d give these a try.
Noteworthy accomplishments this year:
- Car no longer overheats
- Tune is consistent and it rips without fail
- No more shaking when on the gas, though I still have more work to figure out how I can lower the car without it coming back
- It starts every single time, without hesitation (too small of starter signal wire was the culprit)
- Has heat and working sound system
I plan to drive it until the morning temps are consistently below freezing, then will park for the winter. Haven’t decided what to tackle this winter yet. Possibly fuel system? Steering rack and remaining suspension bits? Strip and repaint interior?
Well gents, my second season with the car is already coming to an end. Amazing how quickly it passes.
The car has ran great all year with no major hiccups. I drive it almost daily (weather permitting) and have put over 2000 miles on the clock this year!
No major updates, but figured it was deserving of some good regular maintenance. New plugs, fresh oil and switching to Torco RTF in the trans. Front rotors also needed replaced, and I know the drilled ones are frowned upon but I figured I’d give these a try.
Noteworthy accomplishments this year:
- Car no longer overheats
- Tune is consistent and it rips without fail
- No more shaking when on the gas, though I still have more work to figure out how I can lower the car without it coming back
- It starts every single time, without hesitation (too small of starter signal wire was the culprit)
- Has heat and working sound system
I plan to drive it until the morning temps are consistently below freezing, then will park for the winter. Haven’t decided what to tackle this winter yet. Possibly fuel system? Steering rack and remaining suspension bits? Strip and repaint interior?
Only time will tell
2000 MILES!? Dude, thats great! I'm so glad you got to have so much seat time with your car. ( I don't think mine has done 2000 in 10 years... )
If you repaint the interior, you should redo that white engine bay
2000 MILES!? Dude, thats great! I'm so glad you got to have so much seat time with your car. ( I don't think mine has done 2000 in 10 years... )
If you repaint the interior, you should redo that white engine bay
Lol it wasn't that hard actually when one round-trip work commute for me is 50 miles, and the car has had basically no down time this year
I do have plans to eventually redo the bay, but that won't come until I have reason to pull the engine out. Which will only happen when I either replace it with a sleeved block, or a K series. I want to see how much life I can get out of this engine first though.
The interior, and exterior for that matter needs the most attention for paint. Here is the inside of the hatch with all the panels removed... someone did a terrible job painting it and there is some rust collecting at the bottom. I am gonna go to town with a wire brush on that, then clean it up and probably spray it all black.
Just went through your whole thread, love the build! I hope to one day have confidence in my car to drive 2000 miles in one year lol. Maybe once I weld an exhaust up... I work night shift and I don't think the neighbors would appreciate an open dump honda at 3AM lol. Love the way the skunk2 half rad sits in your bay! Sucks you had some overheating issues but I like the way your hood vents looks. I also noticed your banjo bolt style boost fitting on your wastegate! Gonna order one for my car to get the boost controller lines farther from the manifold. Got a lot of inspiration from this, keep up the good work!
Still doing what I can, but the weather doesn't want to hold out for me. Nonstop rain all week. But when I finally do get to drive again, here are all the little things I've been working on...
- Fresh oil, filter, trans fluid, and spark plugs are in
- New front rotors installed
- Hardrace front LCA's are in
- Mounted some 225 tires on the rear, so I now have 225/45 all around instead of the reverse-staggered fitment.
- Removed the DOHC VTEC door decals
First drive today happened with all the new stuff.
Hardrace LCA's made a world of difference, the front end feels much more solid and smooth than before. I am very happy with this. However, it is now much apparent that the car needs a steering rack lol. Before everything was so clunky, it was hard to tell what was going on. Now you can feel the wobbling and wandering directly in the steering, clear as day. So that will be next on my list.
The Torco RTF actually did make shifting easier. I didn't expect to be able to notice much from this, but it is smoother and the tranny is quieter. Well worth the $60 for 2 quarts.
With every piece I replace on the front end, it feels better and my vibrations become less apparent. Hoping that the steering rack and tie rods are the final piece of the puzzle. I wonder if the car wasn't in some kind of front end collision, or hit a curb or something that damaged all these parts.
If the D bushes on your sway bar are original, chances are their a big contributor to any front end rattles you've got. They're cheap to fix and make a big difference.
new control arms
new brakes
you have fluid in your trans
what do you think your better than me haha
congrats on the work this year 2xo youve made alot of progress
your crx is great
Haha! Thanks. just making little improvements where I can, trying to keep my priorities straight. If I could have it my way, every piece of the car would be new eventually. Only limiting factor is $$$
Originally Posted by ~sp33~
If the D bushes on your sway bar are original, chances are their a big contributor to any front end rattles you've got. They're cheap to fix and make a big difference.
O Rly??? Yeah everything on the sway bar looks original. I hadn't planned on upgrading that anytime soon, but I guess I'll bump it up on my list!
Time for a mid-winter update. Got the three major things fixed already that I had planned.
1.) Installed brand new steering rack with inner tie rods from AAE, and new outer tie rods from Beck Arnley. Was all much easier than expected. One inner rod joint was toast on the old one, and overall steering was sloppy.
2.) Fixed the cracked weld on my manifold. Didn’t think it was too bad, but once I got it off and cleaned you could definitely see light thru there.
3.) New fuelab stainless filter installed. Just put it in the stock location.
Moving onto more fun stuff... going to pull the seats out, paint the interior and put in a moroso battery box. Then I should be all set for spring time
Of course, nothing ever goes back together as easily as it came apart
Started bolting the manifold back on to find that two of the studs were stripped out of the head, aluminum threads pulled right out when trying to tighten. Glad that I am working on this with plenty of time left before driving season. Trying to take my time and do it right, so I ordered an M8x1.25 helicoil kit, tap handle and drill to restore the threads.
While I had it apart I checked the turbo for shaft play, it still feels and looks like brand new.
Another issue I am fixing is my fuel return line. Previous owner used 5/16" hose for the return, but the barb on the FPR is only 1/4". So what did they do? Use electrical tape to increase the diameter of the 1/4" barb of course. Needless to say, this didn't work so well. Going to use a 1/4" to 5/16" adapter fitting for now. Plans down the road are to put in a 15 gallon fuel cell in the hatch, so I can redo all the fuel lines to my liking and make everything more accessible. Plus will get rid of the stock fuel tank to make room for a rear diff, if I ever decide to go that route...
Got the new catchcan lines done, wasn’t too bad once I got the hang of it. I used two adjustable wrenches with electrical tape on them to make the lines. It’s sooo much better than the little CC I had hanging off the back of the radiator!
I went with -10 lines, which is what I thought the bungs on my VC were. Nope, they were -12 so I had a couple extra weeks waiting for some adapters. Still turned out okay. Excited to get all the ugly old blue and red fittings and couplers in the bay swapped out with new black stuff, and get it all cleaned up nice.
Also got new overflow tank mounted, so she’s almost ready to fire up again. Then I’ll be moving onto prepping the interior for paint.
08-21-2018, 11:42 AM
Re: 1991 CRX Turbo B18 project/build thread
