JAYSCRX420

I havent posted in a while but I'll try to make this easy for you guys. I have a 1988 crx si with a y8 mini me running on obd0. my problem is that my crx's idling is currently at about 950 when warm. In the picture (not my car) iv circled two parts I know are missing from my car currently. I can not track down what they are called, I'm hoping it will fix my idling issue. When ever I turn on my headlights on my idling drops about 50 maybe 100, seems normal. When I put my highbeams on it drops to 500 but It doesnt shut off. It maybe raises a little to 550-600 but not much more. I'm planning on replacing a old ground from the head to the chassis but I'm thinking it's doing this because of the missing parts. I just put in a brand new alternator a few days ago and a battery with in the last 7months. The car has no issues starting or holding its idling, it simply drops way to much. Sorry for any unneeded info I'm just trying to give as much detail as needed to get me the best answers. Also I notice there is a vacuum line that goes off of the canister on the firewall, I was hoping to know what that is supposed to connect to. Iv got this car so close to running good. Got it though deq, planning to change to disc brakes all around, and obd1 eventually.

JAYSCRX420

I'll post a picture of my engine bay tomorrow morning if it doesnt rain to bad so anybody who trys to help can actually see what's going on as far as what i have or dont have.

Bently_Coop

Firewall one is a purge solenoid/map sensor. Did you do a charcoal canister delete? If so the purge solenoid is no longer necessary.

A newer throttle body should relocate the MAP sensor onto the throttle body.

The other looks like the FITV which keeps the throttle body from sticking by coolant flowing through it.

JAYSCRX420

I bought the car as it is so I'm still learning what the pervious owner did. I'm replacing the air filter parts now that I notice lots of people dont have. I'm 99% sure they deleted the canister. And yes the map sensor is on my firewall.

JAYSCRX420

so this is what I have going on, I'm not really worried about the canister anymore (I may replace it later) but this is what I'm seeing that I'm missing. It's a part that bolts to the throttle body but I dont think it's the map. The other picture I have has the map on the firewall like mine but also includes the part that's bolted to the throttle body with a vaccum line going to it from where I have the yellow plug.

JAYSCRX420

Heres a photo of the whole engine bay just because I'm kinda proud of all the new stuff I know iv put on, that it didnt have a few months ago. I notice there is a wire that is cut that goes from my harness to my radiator area near the front passenger side. Any idea what that may be? I dont understand why the person before me took off so many stock parts that ultimately make the car run better. From my understanding lots of things that are or were taken off work perfectly fine even with the y8 cylnder head.

Bently_Coop

Fast Idle Thermo Valve

I think that is what the yellow cap vacuum line goes too.

JAYSCRX420

Awesome I'll look it up and report back. Oddly enough even when it wasnt plugged up, iv never had a fast idle issue.

JAYSCRX420

Hmmm okey so it says the common problem with that is a surge in idle speed after its warmed up. Because as it warms up it closes the valve and if the valve isnt closed it makes it surge slightly. But then conflicting to how my car runs it says if it stays closed while its cold it should stall. :/ yikes this car runs on unicorns and magic I think...naw I'll figure it out eventually. I'll keep buying stuff as needed and make this car run right.

JAYSCRX420

So, anybody have an idea what would allow only my hazard lights to work? Im 99%its a fuse just not sure what one/ones I replaced a ground from my valve cover to chassis, started the car no issues. I dumbly, didnt disconnect my battery while I was rechecking the top nut that holds the cable to the alternator, because I replaced it not long ago. It made a spark, didnt think much of it. I reconnected the battery and now i have nothing. No fule pump priming, no lights on my dash. But my hazard lights work nothing else. I'm assuming it's a fuse under the hood? I looked under the dash and thought the alternator solenoid valve fuse was busted but after further inspection it was intact.

JAYSCRX420

Sooooooo.....the nut on the top of the alternator goes to a wire that goes to the fuse box under the hood......and that goes to a 60 amp fuse....so of course If i look in the day time, i bet i blew that fuse and thats why my car wont do anything.

JAYSCRX420

Got the car running , new 60amp fuse and I'm back on track. After looking around iv discovered that the yellow capped line goes to a dashpot that helps with sudden releasing of the throttle. I can not find them online at all does anybody have one they are willing to part with?

4drEF

That intake manifold is from a D16A6, not a Y8.
(Hopefully you were looking the A6 part)

Part number is 16111-PP4-E00
Did a quick search and all the Honda dealerships show it as discontinued
If you can't find one used, this Acura page appears to have on in stock.
https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/oem/acura~diaphragm~assy~dashpot~16111-pp4-e00.htmlhttps://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/oem/acura~diaphragm~assy~dashpot~16111-pp4-e00.html

JAYSCRX420

Thank you ! . I'll be replacing that asap. This may be hard to track down with out a picture (ill get one when I can) but is anybody aware of a similar dash pot looking part on the front near the radiator? It plugs in electronically but the wire was cut. Is that just more evap stuff? I honestly feel like the person before me asked "what's everything I can get rid of that wont make my car not run". Now here I am going how do I get all this back to how it should be.