speeddave

i'm still wanting to do this conversion as well. its kinda late now, but you should have moved the washers down to lessen the angle. it should be ok, but if your worried thats what i would do. he said he would take it back, but personally i would just grind the adapter down and be done with it, it'll take you 10min. hopefully he will remedy this for future brackets.

bryse68

line up the push rod for the clutch master on the pedal assembly so it is straight, then drill a hole and reweld the washers in that position. with the rod facing at an upward angle will cause noise and binding, like mine did.

TheSauceSpot

ill go at it tomorrow with a whiz wheel and grinder. really dont want to have to grind the washers off and re do them.. ill take a look at it again and see what I can do.. maybe just open the hole up a little more and use a larger clevis pin.

bryse68

the larger clevis pin won't fit in the end of the clutch master rod.

TheSauceSpot

Im having my doubt with this kit only b/c of all the modifying im running into.. the whole point of buying the 160$ bracket was for the ease of installation. Now im going to have to hack the bracket for fitment and re-weld the washer to get the rod to line up.

I see what your saying... I should have opened up the hook part on the top of the clutch pedal and then welded the washers into place. you can see from my pictures I welded the washers as low as they could go on that hook opening... This is such a headache..

TheSauceSpot

i should have welded the hook closed and made it into a solid piece and then just lined it up and drilled the appropriate hole to make the master push rod line up... welding the washers on was pointless.... heres some pictures where you can see that the hook doesnt line up evenly with how the master mounts to the bracket....




I would almost say I have a defect bracket b/c of these problems im running into but its just 2 pieces of metal welded together.. who knows...

bryse68

i feel its worth it at the end, my clutch feels great so far, i have a exedy stage 2 with a gsr trans.

welfarepc

why dont you just stick a washer between the bracket and the CMC, putting the CMC at an angle?

seems rather obvious to me....

TheSauceSpot

I would have to put half a washer on each side of the CMC to get it to sit facing downwards... its not like i could just put a washer or two on each side to level it out..

I think the safest way is to weld the top of the pedal(fill in the hook) and then put the hole exactly where it should be.

Its a new product and a lot of people have had easy success with it.. Takes reviews and installs to make the product perfect. hope my pictures and details of install help any others running into a similar problem or the company itself to modify there original design.

TheSauceSpot

I would have to put half a washer on each side of the CMC to get it to sit facing downwards... its not like i could just put a washer or two on each side to level it out..

I think the safest way is to weld the top of the pedal(fill in the hook) and then put the hole exactly where it should be.

Its a new product and a lot of people have had easy success with it.. Takes reviews and installs to make the product perfect. hope my pictures and details of install help any others running into a similar problem or the company itself to modify there original design.

B16CRXT

This thread is very informative dude. If I were you I would send the link tithe guys at sonem so they see what needs to be corrected. After seeing this, I am definitely more likely to do this in the future.

TheSauceSpot

Im glad the thread could help, I think a lot of people with EF's planning to do this could benefit from some reviews and install advice. I also think it will get more people interested in using this product.
I have contacted them on here (pb16b) he has posted once in here, hope to hear more back from him before i go hacking up the bracket and then being unable to return it.

Ill be sure to let you know the resolution.. even thinking he may have sent me a DA bracket.. not sure if there is any difference between the two. Thanks for everyones input so far.

pb16b

the DA is a huge difference. it won't even be close. so that's out of the equation.

did you drill the anit-pivot hole (by the brake pedal mount)? did you tighten that nut/bolt so it flattened out the "hump" on the stock pedal assembly? this should orient the bracket in the proper position so the master cylinder rod will be angled properly to the "hook" of the clutch pedal. if the hole is off, the angle will shift so the rod won't line up properly to the clutch pedal.

i haven't heard of anyone having to notch our bracket yet but there's always a first to everything. there was one incident where someone mentioned they may have to notch it like yours but it was because they did not tighten down the anti-pivot bolt. once they did, the bracket kinda "fell into place" and everything installed like it should. our jig that we fabricate these brackets with is actually not a jig - it's stock pedals. every single one we make is made by hand on those pedals so we know it fits and every single one fits the same.

i would suggest going over the instructions once more and if you believe you followed them properly, please send us your pedals and master cylinder along with our bracket kit back to us. we'll inspect it and assemble it for you and send it back. if there's a defect, we'll make one on your pedals so we know it will fit perfect (in case yours is warped or different in some form, this will also tell us if your pedals are different) and send it all back to you assembled and ready to bolt in. i'd go this route if i were you. it'll be about 1 week down time but once you get it back from us, all you need to do is bolt the pedals in.

kid-honda

iTrader: (2)

I am going to order this set up from you in a bit for my K crx and seeing this kind of back up on the product makes me feel like I am picking the right company.

B16CRXT

Definitely great customer support/service!

TheSauceSpot

I did drill the hole for the anti pivot bolt and did tighten the supplied bolt down to flatten the hump out.

Getting the master to line up so the rod sits straight isnt the problem, im going to weld the entire "hook area" and drill a matching size hole through the welded area to line up perfectly with the rod end and insert the clevis pin. Its getting the bracket bolted to the pedals to mount into the car properly that is the problem... I am a good 1/4 inch away from inserting the top bolt on the entire pedal assembly..

Here is a picture to show what I mean, the area drawn on is what I think I need to remove to get it to clear the steering column mount that comes off the firewall...




which would then allow me to put in this upper bolt
and then allow the pedal assembly to sit flush on the firewall as it is supposed to.



The problem with sending you my entire set-up is that how will you know if it is going to fit into the car and clear the steering column support that its hitting? I installed the bracket and it sits on the assembly fine, the master lines up good... I just cant seem to get that whole thing back into the car properly without trimming down that area of the bracket.

pb16b

i see what's happening. good pictures. i think your pedals could be slightly warped or different. remove the anti-pivot bolt, loosen the 2 attachment points so the bracket can pivot freely. pivot the bracket a tad down so that you can bolt the pedals on to the car. this will also shift up the master cylinder rod that 1/4" you need. now, tighten the 2 attachment points, take the assembly off the car, enlarge the anti-pivot mount hole and install your nut and bolt there. now the assembly will fit on the car without cutting and the clutch arm "hook" won't have to be modified.

pb16b

additionally, when you enlarge the anti-pivot mount hole, i mean to enlarge the pedal side of it. just enough so the bolt can go through. it's not structural but still needs to serve its purpose to prevent the bracket from rotating.

TheSauceSpot

Can anyone post pictures of pedals that they have removed from a crx? and please let me know what year and make they are from if you know. I highly doubt that my pedals are warped, they fit perfect without the bracket, but they may be different than what you guys did your mock up on.


Ive tried every way possible to get this bracket on or even get it closer and nothing looks promising. Ive installed the pedals without the nuts on the bracket so it can move wherever need be, no luck.. ive tried seeing if I could enlarge the holes for the pivot nut and i would have to move it about a 1/4inch but then the normal bracket bolt would have to be moved.. I think I am down to my 2 options... get another set of pedals and try the bracket on that... or what I did not want to do, Return it. not really looking to spend more money on this project, think its better to back out and cut my loses... I would be more ready to cut it up but a 160$ piece of metal is better returned than hacked with my fingers crossed.


I see what your saying to do pb16b but that doesnt seem possible.. maybe i have a defect bracket, maybe the welds are not at the right angle and thats throwing it off... or maybe the pedals are different on each EF model... You have a PM as well. thanks for your response.

pb16b

it's probably not warped. the pilot hole by the anti-pivot hole was probably just mispositioned from honda. just reposition the bracket as mentioned. please do this step by step and report back. i'll be more than happy to get you a new one or your money back. i just need some help from you.

loosen the 2 nuts (clutch pivot and brake pivot)

take off the nut and bolt (6mm,10mm head)

loosely put the pedals with bracket on the car. now the pedal shouldn't interfere with your steering column mount because it will tilt downwards. it might touch or be close bu it shouldn't prevent it from bolting up. now, take a marker or anything that'll mark, and mark the spot that needs to be drilled for the anti-pivot bolt. take everything off and drill that mark. install anti-pivot bolt and the clutch pivot nut and brake pivot nut. install entitre assembly and bleed. you're done. let me know which of these steps is presenting a problem.

TheSauceSpot

I know exactly what your saying.. I cant seem to get the bracket to move any further down, seems like the main support bolts are holding it up. maybe if i open those holes up a little more I will have a little more play, but I am very reluctant to modify the bracket and not be able to return it, if it was a 40$ bracket I would have already hacked into it. I am trying to help as much as possible with pictures and information.. if a phone call is easier, pm me with a number.

heres the picture from your site of the bracket on the pedals..


heres my pedals..


Only difference is the spring attached to the clutch pedal... not sure what the difference is.

here is the bracket loosely on and pushed(angled) down as far as i can get it.. it still lines up to the pivot hole. cant get it to go any further forward..


hard to see.. but with the bracket angled downward as much as possible.. you can see that the pilot hole still lines up..

i would love to get the bracket to angle down more and drill out a new pivot hole but i cant get the bracket to move that much...

I have taken a million pictures of every method I have tried without modifying the bracket. I can post all that up but nothing helped... My own opinion is that either the hole next to the pivot hole is not in the correct spot or the holes need to be opened up to allow a little more play.

TheSauceSpot

Here is the bracket installed very loosely so that it doesnt hit the steering support...


the first problem with that is.. with the CMC fully adjusted its still too short..


next is that there is no way to get the bolt through..



Is it possible that the thin piece that bolts to the side of the clutch pedal is at a wrong angle or welded too far off the thick part of the bracket?

here is my bracket..



Im trying my hardest to get this to work.. the concept is easy.. just will not fit. Sorry but the frustration is setting in.

TheSauceSpot

So I went back into the old thread and found a small difference between my bracket and the other ones people have posted pictures of and a picture the company (pb16b) posted.
here is the bracket that pb16b posted on page 11 of the old thread...


notice there is no hangover of the thinner support bracket...

here is my bracket..



notice the slight hangover of that support?

Im thinking maybe that is lower than it is supposed to be making the entire bracket sit higher up... maybe you can check some other brackets for me pb16b.

TheSauceSpot

Nothing....?

B16CRXT

If only one plate is higher than the other, wouldn't that just cause an angle change? But if the angle were changed then the entire thing would not bolt down flush. I see what you are saying about the differences in the one he posted and yours though. That is odd. And actually, with that operlap, wouldn't it lower the plate down further? I'm at work now and can't see the picture again to get a better look at it, but from what I remember that;s what I'm thinking...