Shaking W/Out Power at 60, With Power at 75 MPH
04-06-2019, 03:42 PM
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Shaking W/Out Power at 60, With Power at 75 MPH
2010 Honda CRV LX 2WD with 103k miles.
I had a problem with a knocking noise, and took it to a repair shop. Told them I suspected the CV joint or control rod. They replaced the struts -and did an alignment. Didn't fix the problem.
Brought it back and this time they listened to me. Fixed the control rods. That fixed the problem. But the alignment was still out of wack. Steering wheel wasn't zeroed, and shake at speed.
Brought it back again and they rebalanced the tires and did yet another alignment.
For alignment they are putting the car on a rack and using a computer.
Situation is better but here's the problem.
I have steering wheel shake while coasting around 60 mph. It goes away with acceleration.
Around 75 I have no shake until I accelerate, then I get shake.
Tires are Michelins put on in October, and I've driving about 4k on them.
Any suggestions?
I had a problem with a knocking noise, and took it to a repair shop. Told them I suspected the CV joint or control rod. They replaced the struts -and did an alignment. Didn't fix the problem.
Brought it back and this time they listened to me. Fixed the control rods. That fixed the problem. But the alignment was still out of wack. Steering wheel wasn't zeroed, and shake at speed.
Brought it back again and they rebalanced the tires and did yet another alignment.
For alignment they are putting the car on a rack and using a computer.
Situation is better but here's the problem.
I have steering wheel shake while coasting around 60 mph. It goes away with acceleration.
Around 75 I have no shake until I accelerate, then I get shake.
Tires are Michelins put on in October, and I've driving about 4k on them.
Any suggestions?
04-20-2019, 04:54 AM
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Re: Shaking W/Out Power at 60, With Power at 75 MPH
Problem solved.
Took the car to the dealer who confirmed the work done by the mechanic.
The issue was due to my aftermarket rims. They should have spacers to hold the rims on the wheel, but missing those they rely on the lug nuts to keep the wheel centered.
When the tech at my mechanic put the tires back on, he didn't cross bolt them as I was taught by my dad: tighten opposite lugs until you meet resistance, then do a final tightening of opposite lugs.
He must have put the wheel on then tightened the lug all the way down, moving around the rim. This bolted the rim slightly off-center to the wheel.
Simply taking the rims off and rebolting them fixed the problem.
Lessons learned:
1. Just because the components test ok doesn't mean the system functions properly. I'm still pissed that my mechanic didn't drive the car. Had he done so he would have noticed the problem right away. Instead he said, "The car is aligned according to the machine. The wheels are balanced according to the balancer. Not sure what the problem is."
2. Have a firm distrust of aftermarket parts unless you know what you are doing. I was sold the rims without the spacers and was unaware they were needed. I should have stayed OEM until I learned how to properly fit AM parts to the car.
3. Go to the dealer within a reasonable time after a problem appears. The mechanic looked at the rims and identified them as AM because he deals with Hondas day-in day-out. It cost me $100 and a total of 2 hours of my time, but I left with the problem accurately diagnosed and fixed. I had to push myself to make arrangements (the dealer isn't close) but waiting would have likely damaged the car and my raised blood pressure would have done my body no good either.
Took the car to the dealer who confirmed the work done by the mechanic.
The issue was due to my aftermarket rims. They should have spacers to hold the rims on the wheel, but missing those they rely on the lug nuts to keep the wheel centered.
When the tech at my mechanic put the tires back on, he didn't cross bolt them as I was taught by my dad: tighten opposite lugs until you meet resistance, then do a final tightening of opposite lugs.
He must have put the wheel on then tightened the lug all the way down, moving around the rim. This bolted the rim slightly off-center to the wheel.
Simply taking the rims off and rebolting them fixed the problem.
Lessons learned:
1. Just because the components test ok doesn't mean the system functions properly. I'm still pissed that my mechanic didn't drive the car. Had he done so he would have noticed the problem right away. Instead he said, "The car is aligned according to the machine. The wheels are balanced according to the balancer. Not sure what the problem is."
2. Have a firm distrust of aftermarket parts unless you know what you are doing. I was sold the rims without the spacers and was unaware they were needed. I should have stayed OEM until I learned how to properly fit AM parts to the car.
3. Go to the dealer within a reasonable time after a problem appears. The mechanic looked at the rims and identified them as AM because he deals with Hondas day-in day-out. It cost me $100 and a total of 2 hours of my time, but I left with the problem accurately diagnosed and fixed. I had to push myself to make arrangements (the dealer isn't close) but waiting would have likely damaged the car and my raised blood pressure would have done my body no good either.
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