Stan Norred

2000 Honda CRV DOHC 2.0 B20Z2 Engine

Ignition fires once then stops firing.
It was running great after a 95% engine overhaul that I did after it over heated.
It has a rebuilt head, rings, inserts, mains, front seal, timing belt, etc.
The engine came up and ran great. I test drove it for about 25 miles at various conditions. It was flawless.
After the test driving I visited the local pub then a friends, still no problem.
I shut the engine down at the friends and when I tried to start it ..... no dice.
The next day I returned to my friends and it started immediately. Sounded great.
I drove it home and began looking for the problem.
I went through all the obvious systems.
Fuel, Air and ignition.
All seemed fine so I started it.
After the engine reached operating temp it was still running fine.
I checked timing - dead on...
I shut the engine down and it wouldn't start again.
I checked everything again. No problems.
Still wouldn't start.
I reconnected the timing light and noticed that it would only fire once then stop firing.
I assumed it was the ignition system so I changed the coil and the ICM.
The cap, rotor and wires are new and check out.
It still only fires once then quits firing.
Any Ideas???

Stan Norred

I checked the Crankshaft Function Sensor and it checks out ok.
I checked the CKP/TDC/CYP sensors and they are all at 350 ohms.
I don't know what else to check.
at this point.

PhilStubbs

Main relay

Stan Norred

Main Relay?
I couldn't find one labeled that.
Where is it and what label will it have?
Thanks for responding.

UK-Kev

Hiya Stan,

The symptoms you describe remind me of the gen1 ignition switch problem, hence have you checked for constant ignition feed at the key switch.

Regards,

Kev

PhilStubbs

Main relays have showed this symptom in Hondas from 88-01. Maybe more. The main relay is to the right of the glovebox. You will have to pull the glove box and outer panel of the dash by the door jamb to remove it. It's the only thing in there so you can't mistake it for anything else. Do a little googling for crv main relay if you need pics

Stan Norred

Thanks

Stan Norred

I did a search on the main relay and that is not the problem.
There is no problem with the fuel delivery. The engine gets good fuel all the way through the injectors. I have verified this several times.

The problem is that after one full cycle of ignition discharge the ignition spark stops.
This was verified by two different timing lights, one being a Snap-On.
I think It is either an ignition problem or the PCM. I'm not sure.

The ignition system functions or there would not be a first spark. I also did a full diagnostic on all components of the ignition. They are all within specs.

I just have a problem accepting the PCM may be the problem because the CRV was running fine before the engine overheated and required an engine rebuild.
It also functioned flawlessly after the rebuild for about 35 miles. It just would not start after being shut off at one point.

The next morning it started and ran fine.
At home I shut it down and it would not start again.

I replaced the ICM and the coil.
I checked the Crankshaft Function Sensor and it checks out ok.
I checked the CKP/TDC/CYP sensors and they are all at 350 ohms. Factory spec.

The next morning it started fine. I ran it up to operating temp for about 30min and shut it off. It would not start again.
It only does one full cycle of ignition sequence, all 4 cylinders, and stops firing.
It has not started since.
I ran a full diagnostic in the ignition components. Each component tested within the book specifications.

I'm unsure at this point.
A PCM will be expensive and what if it doesn't fix the problem.?.?.?

UK-Kev

Stan,

if you are 100 percent sure it's not the ign switch, could it be a problem with your Honda immobiliser.

edited :- the PCM uses a valid signal from the immobilizer unit to determine if the fuel pump should be allowed to run and also cuts the spark feed.

Rgs

Kev

ludesrv

Do you check those sensors when they are warm? I've had issues with distributors going bad when they are operating temp but run find on a cold start. Just food for thought.

Have you tried to replacing the dizzy with a known good for to test with? Sometimes all the tests in the world can't beat a simple swap.

Stan Norred

Whats a dizzy other than the way my head feels right now.

PhilStubbs

Dizzy is a lazy and horribly annoying name for distributor.

Distributor internals very rarely cause a no start issue without being accompanied by a stalling issue as well. But, main relays almost always cause a no start issue without a stalling issue. And, oddly enough, the main relay powers the coil and not just the fuel pump. Hmmm.... Makes sense why I mentioned it now huh?

Stan Norred

Thanks
Will it allow each cylinder to fire just once then shut down?
That's what it's doing.