OkPuddin

Tried to leave work crv would crank but not start.I had it towed home.Thought I had weak spark so I ended up replacing plugs,wires,and distributor.Still no start.Found out I could unplug fuel injectors and then it would run momentarily.checked fuel pressure it is 40 psi at key on?replaced injectors.Still no start.Replaced Ecm. Still no start? It will run with a gassy rag if injectors are unplugged? SeemsSlikelit is flooding.Checked cranksensor and it read 2.8 k ohm putting out 1.9 vac when trying to start? No CEL or codes? Thanks in advance for any other ideas on what might cause this.

avisitor

Here's my two cents ... about what it is worth

So, it cranks but doesn't start ..
Guessing you checked for spark and saw it was weak?
Spark should be okay?

Sounds like the fuel injectors are not getting injector signal to fire.
Engine starts when other fuel source is applied (gassy rag)
Don't think it is flooding.

If crank sensor were bad then there would be no spark and therefore wouldn't start at all.
You got the engine started with a gassy rag. So, crank sensor should be good.

Would check an electrical schematic to see where the injectors get their signal and trace back to ECM
Also, check powers and grounds going to injectors.
Having injector signal with out power won't let engine start also.

Good luck

OkPuddin

I unplugged the injectors and checked, all four had voltage with key on .. They all had a pulse when trying to crank, so i pulled all four plugs and they were wet ? Still no start with injectors plugged in? I am even more confused now ! Thanks AVISITOR for your reply i was questioning my readings on the crank sensor. someone asked me if the sensor was magnetized? I have not checked that because of how much work it is to get to and i thought the readings were within spec..Is it possible there could still be a problem with cranksensor if it were magnetized?

avisitor

You have got me confused now.
Pulled all four plugs and they were wet.
That means the plugs weren't firing or there is too much fuel going to the cylinders
If you can get engine started with a gassy rag or starter fluid then would guess the injectors are flooding engine

Is there a clear flood mode?
On some vehicles, depressing the gas pedal all the way down while cranking engine will put ECM into a clear flood mode.
The engine will crank with the injectors off to clear any fluid in the cylinders.

I really don't believe the crank sensor is the issue.
Especially if you can get the engine to run/fire up with gassy rag.

OkPuddin

I tried starting with the gas pedal to the floor and i am still getting pulse from plug to the injectors? I guess the flood mode does not work on Honda or at least this 97 model crv ? I am a industrial maint. tech. defiantly not an automotive tech. This is getting way above my pay grade! Thanks again for your help..

avisitor

I'm not sure I am helping.
I would try again .. unplug the injectors and spray a little starter fluid into in-take (avoid MAF if it has one)
If it starts and runs for a short time then it appears to be fuel system problem.
Then try with the injectors plugged in. If it starts then not injector issue
If it doesn't start then ... but then have to ask why would all four injectors go bad at the same time??
Did you check the injectors for ground??

Lets see, ....
Spark,
fuel,
Check timing?

Sorry, this one has me stumped

OkPuddin

I sprayed starting fluid into the intake with injectors unplugged and it ran for a sec. Then plugged injectors back up ....no start? back probed injectors and had constant voltage on my test light to ground on right wire with key on .Hooked test light up to positive post on battery and had pulse on the left wire ( back probed} when trying to start? when you asked about checking injectors for ground did you mean the body of the injector ? I measured from the body of the injectors to ground and two were reading 2 meg. ohms .The other two were reading around 20 meg.to ground?Shoud the fuel rail be completely insulated from ground ?I have replaced all four injectors and after trying to start several times the plugs were wet so i was leaning toward too much fuel.? After trying to start a few times then unplugging the injectors it will start up & run for a sec.? I pulled the valve cover off to check timing and the marks on the cams are lined up and timing belt looks ok up top .

avisitor

Sorry, ...
I don't know ... I am at a lost
If there is only two wires on connector then body of injectors should be ground?
Don't know how or why ground would have disappeared?

OkPuddin

I cleaned the grounds that I could find. Still no start. Checked Iat, map,Iac, and tps sensors .They all seem to check ok. What are the main sensors the ecm looks at on start up? Thanks !

avisitor

On start up, the ECM gets information from the crankshaft sensor and cam sensor to determine when to inject fuel and set the spark.
Then in open loop the engine runs a little rich until it goes into closed loop,
In closed loop, the ECM takes info from the rest of the sensors .. like the O2 sensors, MAF or MAP, etc to determine if it is running with in pre-programmed limits

You know your engine will start with a gassy rag or starter fluid. So, it isn't the sensors that is the problem.
It is a fuel system issue. It appears the injectors are on almost all the time. Too much fuel keeps it from starting up.
Why? I don't know. You need an auto electrician or good mechanic.

OkPuddin

Well I found a pin out of a 99 crv ecm....pulled it out to check grounds and wire colors don't match the pin out I found ? So I thought since I had wiggled wires I would try to start it and it fired right up !Then I noticed I had left the flat green connector with small wires that i had to unplug to get the ecm out disconnected.So I cut it off and plugged it back up.No start! Unplugged it again and it starts? Now that I have it narrowed down I need to find the correct pin out I'll let you know when I find it !

avisitor

Thanks for the update.
Hope you get it fixed soon

Good luck

venn

to OKpuddin and anyone else,
I had a similar problem, no spark on my son’s 98CRV. I did not have the fuel issues you mentioned, ours was purely a spark problem. I did develop a way to bench test a distributor from a 1998 CRV. (I had a 98 accord distributor also, which I robbed parts from. Both were tested with the following method)

Put a bolt through one of the mounting flanges so you can clamp it in a vice.

Get a 12V power source, such as a laptop power supply or other DC power source.

Power up the distributor by connecting negative to ground, and + positive to the Black/Yellow wire. Use an alligator clip to put the + on the male terminal on the distributor connector.

This powers up the coil and ignitor.



The key thing I learned is that you need to connect a wire to the male terminal corresponding to the Blue/Yellow wire and ground it to make (trigger) the ignitor pulse the voltage to the coil.

This way you can verify the function of the ignitor. (and the coil). Apparently the “Fuel Injection Computer” triggers (controls) the spark. I learned this by scouring the internet, comparing some troubleshooting techniques and guessing that the wire needed either +12 or grounded to trigger. It needs to be intermittently grounded to make the coil spark.

Before I tested the ignitor, I verified both of the coils I had on hand. To do that:

1 Remove the screws and wires from the coil primary.

2 Form a piece of wire and place it in the spring coming out of the coil secondary, and make it rest at a place where there is a 1/8” to ¼” gap from the wire to a grounding point on the metal housing of the coil.

3 Apply 12 volts to the A and B (primary) terminals and as you release the wires the coil will spark. It may look a bit weak, because the primary side of the coil is not connected like it is when all the wires are connected.

Spark means the coil is ok. No spark means the coil is bad. (There are simple resistance tests that can probably verify the coil easier than this.)

Bud

houssem

Hope This will help