mike562

I bought my 2016 CRV brand new. At about 2.5 years old and aproximately 40,000 miles the battery died. AAA gave me a jump start and I drove around for about 15 minutes and then turned the car off, thinking that the battery would have enough charge to start. It would not start again so AAA replaced my battery. The technician tested the new battery and told me my alternator was not charging my battery adequetly and I should take it in to get checked. His read out indicated 12.4 volts with no load. I took it to autozone to get checked and they aslo said the alternator test failed, but did not have any voltage readouts. Just said "Failed." The next morning I checked it myself with my own cheap voltmeter and my readings were 13.4 (no load) and 14.3 (under load, lights, ac, radio on). I've read online about Honda's "Dual Mode Charging System" and lower voltage readouts seem to be normal, which is what is confusing me a little. I am going to take it in but am just wondering if this is normal? What should the voltage readouts be? What can I expect? My assumption is the alternator is probably bad. Thanks.

rick_rabies

alt is dead.
warranty? or alt/power wires are loose

2004ep3hatch

rick_rabies

you can use aftermarket alt just make sure it has no omri relay. but the new updated one

avisitor

Shouldn't the warranty cover this??
Or are you passed the warranty?

Did you check to see if there are any parasitic drain on the battery?

TronHarestua

The alternator on newer CR-V only charges when "necessary". It does not charge like older cars on idle so you will get a different Reading from what you're used to.
If you use your car for many short trips the battery can wear down faster as it takes about 10-15 mins before the state of the battery is back to "normal" (what you use for starting up the car).
When doing this long enough the battery will get worn down.
You also have a batterysensor on the ground-side cable (little black Box).
If you tried to charge the battery the wrong way (yes, you read that right) it could trick the sensor into thinking it has a weaker battery and you will get DTC's.
Do not fasten the negative-clamp of your charger directly to the negative-pole of the battery. Follow the cable and fasten it either on the bolt to body or right before the sensor if the cable is open.
If you have auto start-stop function you HAVE TO get a original battery (L2 or L3 im guessing) or you will get problems later on faster than you would expect.
New technology is sensitive and could cause problems if not done right.

Joe Avet

I would guess the battery sensor gets damaged if you connect your jumper cables to the neg post of the battery. Looses sensitivity. Replacing the L-shaped battery sensor may solve the problem.