Asmodeus

2005 Honda Element
I was going through a Taco Bell drive-through when my power window stopped rolling up/down. It actually got stuck down and started working and then stopped again. I had already replaced the driver side regulator in 2017 and I replaced the passenger side with a new one in February 2019.

Troubleshooting Steps
I checked all of the under dash fuses and under hood fuses with a DMM. No.6, No.13, No.19, No.20, No,22, No. 23
I tried resetting the PWCU by removing the fuses.
I replaced the master control unit with a spare.
I replaced the power window relay with a new one.
I checked the switch continuity using the electrical wiring guide and the switches on both sides worked.
I checked the wiring on the passenger side and there was no power.
I went to the Master Door 14P connector and tested to see if power and accessory power were at the connector using a DMM and I got no voltage on wire/pin (2)GRN/BLK 'Ignition Switch 'or (11) GRN/WHT which says it should be on under all conditions.
The power mirrors work on both doors and you can see the control light up.

Where on earth are G301 and G501 located exactly? What else should I check?

Thanks in Advance!!

tech8

With the checks you already done, if there is no power at terminal no. 2 (Grn/Blk wire) and no. 11 (Grn/Wht wire) at power window master switch, you may have an open (break) in those respective wires.

1. Locate the Connector M (lt green connector) on the back of the under-dash fuse box. Disconnect it from the under-dash fuse box.
2. Check for continuity at each end of the Grn/Blk wire and the Grn/Wht wire; respectively. The Grn/Blk wire is at terminal no. 11; and the Grn/Wht wire is at terminal no. 10 of Connector M. — You're checking continuity between the power window master switch connector and the under-dash fuse box connector.
3. If there is continuity between the respective individual wires, then see if there is power at the terminals of the fuse box. No. 10 the fuse box should always be hot. No. 11 should be hot with ignition switch in ON or START positions.

Asmodeus

What about the locations of those 2 ground points?

tech8

How are they currently relevant if there is no power (+) at those wires?

Generally, tests are done to narrow the focus where the cause may be. Your tests results identified power (+) not present. There was no indication yet that the ground (-) was an issue.

Why not focus and solve what the power issue is?

Even if you do not know where the other ends of the ground points are, you can test the wires for continuity to ground.

Asmodeus

They are relevant because the troubleshooting chart mentions that it is a possible cause for no power.

If the grounds wires are damaged then you won't get power either. Each harness that connects to those grounds has their own specific wire in the bundle.

I know that the power going to the power mirrors is working but that is a separate harness.

I tested using both black wires to either of the positive wires and got nothing. I wanted to physically and visually verify that there was no ground issue at the ground points. That means inspecting for rust or wire damage rather than assuming that nothing is wrong at those points which is why I asked where they are located exactly. They could have been eaten through for all I know. What I do know is the wiring guide doesn't tell you where either of those points are using a reference drawing.

I planned on checking what you suggested today. I had to go to a funeral so I had to put everything back together in order to drive the car.

Asmodeus

I have 14.29v at both doors now on both green/black and green/white. The grounds both passed continuity. I tested the Black wires vs a radio mount screw.
Also tested the voltages at the fuses. On the passenger door I tested the switch to see if voltage went to the motor and it did but nothing moved on either door.
Since the plug for the motor at the passenger door reverses polarity depending on if it's up or down I tested that also and got 14.30v in either direction.

I am about to see if I can get either motor to move using an external 12v bench supply. I don't see how both motors could fail when one just got replaced.

Asmodeus

With the bench supply I tested the passenger door and I got the window to roll down with 14.3v but going back up it's like it's stuck. If I push when applying voltage it will go up but beyond that it's not moving anywhere freely but down.

I also re-tested with the door window controls on either side and I could not even get it to go down. No clicks were heard like when I tested using the PSU.

tech8

1. Okay, I see. This part of the service manual is only correct for the Grn/Blk wire; as Ground from G301 is necessary for the power window relay coil to be energized to allow power through the relay contact to the Grn/Blk wire. The service manual is in error as for power to the Grn/Wht wire if you are testing the wire with a voltmeter/multi-meter, as the Grn/Wht wire get power directly from the fuse boxes.






2. In regards to the passenger door power window only going down; but, not up, that usually indicates a faulty power window regulator unit.

Since you heard no clicks now, make sure the driver's side master switch terminals are okay and the harness connector is firmly connected. Also, check that the Main Switch on the driver's master switch was not inadvertently switched OFF.

ShaneD

Did you ever figure the problem out? I'm having the same issue