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you don't run into any wheel-caliper rubbing with no spacers in the rear??
Looking good tho! I see you too have the Reese roof basket
not one bit. There is nice clearance in the rear. The front was the pain. And even with the 8mm spacers it just barely clears the front calipers by a hair. Probably gonna do extended studs but I used extended thread lug nuts for now in the front and get a solid 10 turns out of them
- 2in Aerogenics lift spacers all around with the Old Man Emu (I'm almost sure haha). 5mm spacers up front with 42mm extended studs. ( I had to do some grinding but not a bad job at all) Same wheels and tire setup. Added the tow hitch. LED lights all around. The gas jugs made it sag in the rear so its a bit high when they aren't on there.
- The 2in lift spacer were a bitch to get in, especially in the rear. Will need to get the camber kit for the rear and camber bolts up front. Negative camber in the rear and Positive up front. I can tell you that with the lift I do get vibration on acceleration and even though it is aligned it wants to pull to the left. I'll sort it out in the spring but i have put some miles on the CRV and haven't had any issues. Fixed some stuff that had been going on. Exhaust leak that turned out to be the gasket between the manifold and downpipe to cat. Then did the timing chain and guides. Replaced the outer tie rods and both axles. All the stuff is preventative stuff and wanted to replace it with new.
- Last picture is to put it into perspective of what I started from, all stock. If you were wonder why I had the gas jug on the back. For my other car that runs e85.
Hey boys, been awhile since I got on! Done alot since I last posted. Any way, I NEED HELP! I really want to mount a rocker switch panel inside, preferably 4 gang or more but I don't know where to place it.
First time posting on a car forum...then again, this is my first car. Yesterday, I bought my first car which just so happened to be a 2006 Honda CR-V SE. Now, I love the off roading look that the CR-V's have in this thread and honestly, I have no idea where to start. I want my CR-V to be able to fit in at an urban car rally, but also fit in at an off roading event. This means I am planning on decking it out with chassis lights and other flashy stuff just because I love the look; however, I also want to put a full nudge bar on it along with a nice lift, roof cargo bucket, LED bars and some good all weather tires. Like I said previously, I have no idea where to start. Ill post some pictures tomorrow when I get it back from the shop. Im looking forward to becoming a Honda lover for life!
-Will
If I were you start with small stuff, first thing I did, and helps remove the "mom car" look, put a roof rack on, then just scroll Amazon and you'll find some stuff
My alignment is definitely jacked. On the freeway it starts to shimmy above 50 and then settles around 75-80. One of the wheels has more toe out than the other, like it's visually noticable. I know throwing on some new wheels didn't do tht. I'm thinking it might have happened when I went camping, and took the road less traveled haha. The new wheels are probably just exacerbating the symptoms. Still no word back from aerogenics yet, but it is the weekend. I got kind of desperate last night, the fender rub was driving me crazy. So I thought I'd share this tidbit for anyone else needing a temporary fix like me. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK TEMPORARY FIX ONLY. Anyway, I went to AutoZone and picked up a pack of these twist in coil spring boosters for like $11. Says they yeild a lift of 1"-1 1/4". Took me all of 10 minutes to install both sides Now I know the long term effects of this will be bad for the rear springs, and I have no intention of keeping them in there. This is just a temporary fix to my current problem until I can get a proper lift in the back. On a side note I will say, goddamn I love the way the rear suspension rides now. A little more stiff, no rubbing, and it even got rid of the visual negative camber in the back! Lmao. The V sits level as hell now, and I'm really liking it. I might just go with an 1" in the back and leave the front stock tbh.
Before
After
hope you don't mind, but can you contact me somehow someway, I love your crv, it's the exact look I'm trying to get I just really need the info on your rims and tires..
hope you don't mind, but can you contact me somehow someway, I love your crv, it's the exact look I'm trying to get I just really need the info on your rims and tires..
Hey man no problem. Wheels are ProComp 15x8 0 offset. Got em from 4 wheel parts for cheap. Tires are 215/70/15
Haven't posted in a while. Been pretty busy and haven't been able to do much with the crv. But I'm going on a snow trip soon, so I figured I'd treat my lady with some tasteful upgrades. Mainly new headlights. And boys, let me tell you, it's love at first light. Definitely a step up. Also threw some new horns on because I got tired of sounding like a clown car with my one busted horn. Just some cheapo AutoZone horns, but now other cars will at least be able to hear my wrath as they cut me off.
Also threw some new horns on because I got tired of sounding like a clown car with my one busted horn. Just some cheapo AutoZone horns, but now other cars will at least be able to hear my wrath as they cut me off.
If you wanna get some horn that makes you noticeable, check out Stebel Nautilus 139dB
Have it on both my Civic and my V, cars move and old ladies jump in the air :D
It is wired together with the OEM horns to fill out the sound
Do I need to do any sort of mods to allow this set up? Lift, trim, spacers?
But thanks man, I appreciate!
Definitely are going to need lift and spacers to run this set up. Mainly for the back, because of the butt sag. The front I have yet to lift and it hasn't given me any issues. The back I lifted an inch, and threw on some adjustable control arms for the camber. 5mm wheel spacers all around to clear the calipers. Didn't need to trim anything though.
Finally decided to man up and try to source my front end shake on the highway. For the longest time I thought I'd blown my front left axle. But, turns out, after looking over all the suspension bits in the front yesterday, everything is shot! :D. Okay, that's an exaggeration. Struts and axles are still good. Sway bar end links are still good. LCA bushings definitely need to be replaced, but it's not too sever that I need to do it right this minute. The main offender was, my outer tie rod ends. They were blown to bits. The inner tie rods have a tiny bit of play. But they're still firm for now. Took me less than an hour to swap some new ends on, took her for an alignment, and holy crap what an improvement. The steering is so much tighter than it was. I can't believe I was driving like that. I still get a slight steering vibration, but not enough to shake the whole front end like it was doing. I'm sure once I get everything else on there, she'll be smooth as butter. On a side note, oddly enough, I have negative camber in the front. Nothing crazy. But considering I don't have the front lifted, it's a bit of a head scratcher. Joey, I remember you were having some shake and clunking similar to mine. Definitely check your tie rod ends if you haven't already.
Last edited by PolkaSauce; 01-09-2019 at 02:15 AM.
So money tight, how much should I sell my rims and tires for, I have bfgs advantage, 30k miles on them and stock rims....?
TL;DR Probably not as much as you want. Maybe $400 at the most.
To be honest, you probably won't get much. Couple of things to factor in. Main thing depends on if they're the sport rims or the steelies. Sport you could probably get $40-45/wheel. Steelies $25-30(mind you these are scrap yard prices). Next thing to factor in is that you could get new wheels for 40 bucks minimum if you look in the right places. So, you're really gonna only be selling to someone who's looking specifically for crv rims, or is desperate for a particular wheel size with decent tires already on them. And chances are they aren't looking to spend big bucks. Now as for the tires, bfg advantages are tread rated for up to 75k miles. That's under perfect driving conditions. While yes, they do have a good amount of life left on them, not a lot of people are going to pay big money for tires that are almost half way worn. If the warranty somehow was transferrable, it'd be a different story, but to my best knowledge, most tire shops won't honor a transfer, unless the tires are still on the same vehicle. Bfg Advantages usually run about $90/tire new. So, now you gotta cut that about half. So let's say you do 45 rim/45 tire. 90/wrapped wheel x 5 wheels(hopefully the spare is matching), that's only $450. And that's your asking price. Everyone is gonna try and low-ball. Also depends the area you live. Different buyer market in different areas. You might get 350-400. That'll just about cover the cost of either 5 wheels or 5 tires, separately. For my set up, I made the mistake of buying the wheels first, and then hastily buying everything else after to make them work, which was no fun. Best advice I can give you is to do the opposite. Start with the less expensive, functional mods, and work your way up to the more expensive. Get your money's worth out of the tires you have on there now. Lift the car, get all the stuff for camber, wheel spacers. Save up for the wheels and tires. They're the most expensive part of the look. Just to give you an idea, here's the breakdown of what I spent. Mind you I went with a lot of cheap stuff, and did all my own work.
Specialty Camber Bolts(for the front)-$15
5mm wheel spacers(all 4)-$17
Adjustable Control Arms-$70
Aerogenics 1" spacers-$180
5 wheels- $325
5 tires-$375
Sorry if a lot of this was unnecessary and you just wanted a quick answer, Im not trying to assume anything about your situation. Just don't want anyone starting out making the same mistakes I did. Because it can really take something that's supposed to be fun and make it stressful. I think a lot of the people on here can vouch for that too. I know I'm not the only one who made impulsive decisions haha.
Hope I was able to help!
interesting! dont forget to buy the two springs mentioned below the video!
"Red upgrades the rear CRV differential/carrier for faster engagement. The upgraded CRV uses a custom made shim to take up clutch pack play and a thicker shim for the ramp assembly holder, plus a stiffer pressure relief spring for more clutch pressure. Here are the links for the 2 springs I used, you must cut 5 coils off the oil relief spring, and the second spring is for the 2/4wd selector servo "
Finally some snow here in Upstate NY (Ithaca) 2' in 24hrs. Nice to know this thing isn't going to get stuck at all. The extra lift helped out alot.
The CRV is surprisingly good in the snow. Coming from Canada, I've had mine go through some deep snow and ice without getting stuck whereas some of my friends trucks for stuck, mine just kept chugging along, no problems. The lift and tires definitely help on the road too when it's slippery.
My brother is selling his lifted CRV if anyone cares. OME lift and lots of other stuff. He isnt on here. Delete this if you dont want it around. He towed this behind his motorhome.
12-12-2018, 08:08 PM
Re: *Official H/T OFFROAD/LIFTED CR-V thread!*
