phrenzy

So HT,
I built a D16z6 for my 93 hatch. Let me list everything I did before I get into the problems in detail:

D16z6
Stock p28 ECU

HEAD:
Bisimoto Valve Train
Head Mild port and polish
Port matched OEM IM and Stock TB
Bolt-ons
Was running 270CC RC injectors, but now stock

BOTTOM END:
P29/PM7 high dome pistons 75.5mm Bore
ACL Race bearings
Exedy Streetlite flywheel 11 lbs.
exedy oem organic clutch.

I Can't think of anything else relavant to the problem.

The one thing I didn't mention was my Camshaft... I was running a Bisimoto cam gear, the woodruff key broke and spun the cam and I ended up bending a couple valves which I already replaced. Before the Valves bent, the motor was running great. Afterwards, I couldn't use the z6 cam because the key breaking caused one side of the "keypath" on the cam to partially flatten and I don't think it would hold a cam gear very well. My motor that blew before my swap was a JDM d15b vtec motor. I ended up using the cam from that motor. I'm thinking this is my initial problem... My idle if awful and could the use of a cam made for a different motor mess up my fuel supply? The cam + the high dome pistons could be causing some sort of problem.

Now on to what I've done already to try and fix my problems. I've replaced my o2 sensor and replaced the gasket between the runners and the b pipe of my 4-2-1 headers because the one I was using was leaking. The car ran for a day and seemed fine, Started off with the CEL on and I ran the car through like 4 fan cycles to make sure my ECU learned everything. I restarted the car and the CEL was off and drove the car around for a bit. Seemed ok... other than the Tachometer stopped working during the drive. Then, the next day I started the car and the idle was terrible like I had the CEL again, but no CEL light. So, i jumped the jumper plug and turned the key to the on(II) position, and the light didn't appear. So I knew my SRS and my battery light were working so I swaped the bulb to make sure It wasn't the bulb and the bulb works. So there is something wrong with that side of the cluster, my fuel gauge works, but the water temp doesn't work as well as the lights on that side. And the Tach still not working, but I have yet to check the blue wire.

Any insight on the problems I have? other than the blue wire?
Could the D15B cam be the cause of all of my problems? Idle, CEL and all?
Is there a fuse for the lights in the cluster? I looked in my haynes guide but no help.
Why would the SRS light and battery light work if the fuse( if there is a fuse ) was out?

If I can think of anything else I'll edit this post.

Thanks in advance HT.

phrenzy

Any help would be much appreciated! thanks a lot HT.

Jimster480

I thikn that the D15B cam and the stock Z6 cam have the same if not very similar cam profiles. Since the D15B essentially comes with a Z6 head. It sounds like you might have gotten water in your distributor or your ICM went bad.

phrenzy

Well, I was more leaning toward the Cam messing with my fuel supply in conjunction with the pistons. That's pretty much the only thing that's changed since my car ran fine and now. Other than the 2 valves that I replaced of course.

phrenzy

Well, what other than the cam, and o2 sensor that i replaced and an exhaust leak near the o2 sensor... could be causing the CEL? I changed my fuel filter, put new gas... phearable was saying that a chipped ECU with a better fuel map might help... maybe it was just a sales pitch... they also said to use 93 octane at least because of the compression from the pistons...

I don't know what to do now.

Jimster480

compression of what pistons?

phrenzy

I have p29 pistons, high dome.

Jimster480

oh i see. Well you should for sure get a chipped ECU with at minimum a basemap for your setup, since it wont run properly at all like that. Also are you sure you degreed teh came right?

phrenzy

I'm not using any kinda of cam gear that I can change the degree on the cam... I have a bisimoto cam gear, but like I said it was on the cam where the woodruff key broke. I'm still gonna use the cam gear, but I have to get a new woodruff key.

phrenzy

Anyways, the car ran fine before the valves bent and I changed the cam.

Jimster480

well was the cam gear adjusted at all? Its possible that your timing is off now using this gear.

phrenzy

As I said, I'm using a stock cam gear.

Jimster480

i meant on the other cam gear. It could be that you are simply running lean.

0Janet@bisimoto

Greeting's,

Still interested in a woodruff key?

Kindly give us a call at the facility: *888-922-6686 so we can further assist you.

phrenzy

No, it was set at zero... I only ran the car for about a week or so then the woodruff key broke.

Janet, i'll keep in contact with you. I need to figure out problems first then I'll call you folks and pick up the key.

phrenzy

And I still don't understand what the bisi cam gear has to do with my problem now when I'm not running it.... Lol

phrenzy

A little update, I did a compression test today, cylinders 1 2 4 all have 9:1 compression and cylinder 3 which is the cylinder that I replaced the valves on has 8:1... Don't all these numbers seem low since I have the p29 pistons? and If not does that small difference in the cylinders make any difference?

And, after some thought, the cluster lights that aren't working... I turned on my headlights today and the whole bottom of the cluster isn't working. Is it possible for a cluster to go out?

Thanks.

phrenzy

Forgot to mention that the valves I replaced the ones that bent weren't OEM. Not sure if that makes any difference.

phrenzy

Bump, please read!

delsolintegra

Did you look over the header and header welds and see any cracks?
Cel 43 was common with cracked exhaust manifolds near the o2 sensor.
That new header gasket you installed- check that again.

Cleaned your IACV ?

nealnanoHX

Get to a dyno and have some data logging and tuning done.

Former User

Duplicate thread closed.