HondaCivic1.6L

Hello all, I purchase a 1995 Honda Civic with D16Z6 engine recently. They said it had a blown head gasket but it seemed to idle fine and I drove it around a bit (it was leaking oil from the head).

Anyways I didn't notice until after I pulled the head that it was a D16Y8. I already owned it so went ahead and sent the head to the shop to be cleaned, checked and shaved.

I got 1 Y8 head bolt to go nearest the vtec solenoid (the original owners did not do that). I also got an adjustable Cam gear and set it to 4 degrees advance.

The engine has a sever lack of power although it idles and sounds great. Also still has a medium sized oil leak that looks like it's coming from the head. Looks like the dizzy is off of the original D16Z6.

If anyone could shed some light on this predicament it would be greatly appreciated.

HondaCivic1.6L

Forgot to mention I did the timing belt & water pump while the head was off. All timing marks lined up perfectly. I have done about a dozen F, D, and J timing belts so I'm very sure I did it correctly.

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

Before you swapped to the adjustable cam gear was it using the newer Y7/8 cam gear? If so put it back. Also is the adjustable cam gear specific to a particular D engine or is it D engine universal?

tony_2018

To add to "24TEN", is the belt flapping during operation?

HondaCivic1.6L

Thank you for the reply. Yes it did have the y8 gear on it. I only changed it because it was almost undrivable. The 4 degree advance did make it better but not good enough. I believe it is just a D-series ajustable.

The belt doesn't have any more play than usual. However the one i took off was extremely loose. Wondering if they somehow rigged it just to run...

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

Possible problem is the universal ones usually are set for Z6 timing. Problem here is that you did a VTEC conversion (not a mini-me). Difference here is the block height is the same so technically there's nothing to adjust for as long as the cam shaft matches the cam gear. I'll leave it at that since you stated it runs better but keep in mind you stated that you had a blown head gasket. Logic says it ran crappy because of that.

Another possible point is ignition timing. You haven't stated that you set it yet.

Lastly fix that leak ASAP.

PS
Safe to assume you're using a P28 ECU? Hoping the solution is quick and painless as it seems you've covered your bases on research.

HondaCivic1.6L

I will check out the timing more then. I did adjust the dizzy and it did "better" the more i turned it clockwise.

The head leaks oil but coolant doesnt leak a drop so the water jacket is intact. Also no bubbles in coolant while running.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

your mechanical timing is off.

HondaCivic1.6L

Update: The oil leak is coming from the bottom of the vtec solenoid. I had ruled that out because I saw a small leak in that corner so I put a new solenoid gasket on. Apparently the new gasket is still leaking a good amount...

As for the timing I am working on that now. Thanks again guys.

tony_2018

I would've replaced all gaskets with new ones at that point, why re-use.

HondaCivic1.6L

err I meant I saw a leak (from the VTEC) when I first finished putting the head gasket on so at that point I replaced it. Now today I realized the new gasket is leaking as much oil as the old one. I guess it's time for a very small amount of RTV.

HondaCivic1.6L

I had some more time to work on it today. There was more oil coming out from the top of vtec solenoid so I ordered upper gasket also.

Now for the timing...it ran almost ok @ 4 degrees advance and distributor advanced all the way toward firewall. Tried it at 6 degrees advance and it was worse. Tried 3 degrees and it was about the same as 4.

I started checking the dizzy timing with my gun (w/ paper clip in jumper) and it seems the the red mark is about an inch to far to the left (standing on driver side w/ 3 advance). The dizzy is as far counterclockwise as it will go.

How exactly can I get this ignition timing to line up? Maybe adjust the cam more?

HondaCivic1.6L

I just tried advancing the cam timing from 3 to 4, 5, then 6 doesn't appear to make a difference. When the timing light flashes the red mark has already passed and is to the left. The timing cover marker is almost lined up with the white mark when the gun flashes...I'm a little stumped now.

tamboo

line up white mark with pointer and see if cams align.
i think mr anti homo turkey burger called it. 8)

http://www.team-integra.net/images/B...g/pointer3.jpg

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

Have tried to retard the cam gear to 4 degrees? Or retard it any amount?

JRCivic1

Do you have a basic timing light or does it have the ability to select (by dial **** or +/- buttons) ignition advance ???

A basic timing light requires you to shoot the RED mark on your crank pulley when checking your ignition timing. A timing light with the adjustable ****/buttons set to ZERO would verify the ignition timing the same: RED mark. If you adjust the ****/buttons to 16' advance, then you would use the WHITE mark on the crank pulley to verify proper ignition timing. So, pick your path in how you choose to use your timing light. Then, set your distributor timing. If proper distributor timing cannot be set with the top ear of the distributor just slightly closer to the firewall from dead center of the slot, then your cam gear setting is off.

Advancing the distributor moves the crank pulley timing marks from front to back (left to right as you view from the drivers side)... retarding it moves the lines from right to left. Assess how far it appears you need to move the cam to bring your timing line to your lower timing cover pointer, and then move the cam gear the OPPOSITE direction. Re check your timing and fine tune using this same process until you are very close to proper mechanical timing. Once you feel comfortable with that, you can fine tune the distributor timing if you prefer, but know that the closer the mechanical timing is, the better the car will run.

Good luck.

HondaCivic1.6L

I do not have an adjustable light, just the basic one. I tried retarding it and it was worse, but then I started advancing it more and the red ignition timing mark is a lot closer. It's at 11 degree advance. I test drove it and the car drove almost normal, just needed a little more power.

Should I continue advancing since it is getting better? seems like a few more degrees and the ignition timing should be good.

fyi. I did recheck the timing marks (mechanical) and they are dead on. When I put the adjustable gear on i marked the belt on all three timing marks. I am positive it is mounted in exactly the same orientation as the y8 gear it replaced.

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

HondaCivic1.6L

Yes it is a P28.

HondaCivic1.6L

I kept advancing it all the way to 16 degrees, in small increments at a time. It FINALLY drove normally!!

I still couldn't get the dizzy marks on crank to line up however they are a lot closer. Anyone know if this will be acceptable?

I don't understand why the stock timing marks were so far off. Maybe someone shaved the crap out of the head?? idk

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

My personal theory and I could be wrong about this...

There's a half tooth difference between the 88-95 and 96-00 cam gears. For this thread we'll say Z6 vs Y8. That half tooth difference is roughly 4.5 degrees IIRC. I mentioned the possibility of this earlier and it "seems" that maybe you do in fact have a gear marked for Z6 use.

Notice the timing mark relative to the gear teeth, Z6 is centered and Y8 is not:



If I'm right, 4.5 degrees + 9 degrees (one tooth off possibility) would be 13.5 degrees. Now you stated at 11 degrees adjusted on mechanical timing you're close to the red mark on ignition timing correct? Maybe try 2.5 more degrees and see where you're at?

EDIT: Seems you did what I was suggesting while I was typing it out LOL. Good job