write up on how to remove b seris head
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write up on how to remove b seris head
My older brother is selling me his 98 jdm gsr long block for $500.
My plan is to part it out and make some profit since i already have a itr motor.
Some local guy wants to buy the block from me.
Now my question is, is there any write up ( with pics) on how to remove the head from the block. Keep in mind that this is going to be the first for me. Oh yeah, tried searching and did't find anything.
Note: motor is aready out the car sitting in the garage.
My plan is to part it out and make some profit since i already have a itr motor.
Some local guy wants to buy the block from me.
Now my question is, is there any write up ( with pics) on how to remove the head from the block. Keep in mind that this is going to be the first for me. Oh yeah, tried searching and did't find anything.
Note: motor is aready out the car sitting in the garage.
#2
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Re: write up on how to remove b seris head (spintboy)
its really simple.. just take off valve cover, cam caps. cams and head studs.. so pretty much jsut keep taking off **** untill the head pops off. and off yeah make sure u got a really streong impact gun for the head studs they are a bitch to break loose when the motors out of da car .. GL
#3
Head bolts aren't that hard. Just have someone hold the motor still and use a long tool (such as an 18"+ flex handle). Other than that, it's pretty straight forward as already stated. Don't be intimidated by it, it's just nuts and bolts, you can't really hurt anything while taking it apart. The only thing would be to unseat the head gradually and evenly. In fact there's a loosening sequence that I'll look up for you right now.
EDIT: Here's the loosening sequence for a B16A2 (should be exactly the same for your engine). Loosen each bolt 1/3 of a turn at a time.
Intake
3 7 9 5 1
4 8 10 6 2
Exhaust
Modified by Hardedge at 12:20 AM 1/7/2008
Modified by Hardedge at 12:21 AM 1/7/2008
EDIT: Here's the loosening sequence for a B16A2 (should be exactly the same for your engine). Loosen each bolt 1/3 of a turn at a time.
Intake
3 7 9 5 1
4 8 10 6 2
Exhaust
Modified by Hardedge at 12:20 AM 1/7/2008
Modified by Hardedge at 12:21 AM 1/7/2008
#4
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Re: (Hardedge)
Yeah, the only thing im afraid of is to mest something up. But from what you guys said, should't be to hard. What kind of precaution you guys guys would recommend i should/should not do.
Where the write-up. With pics
Where the write-up. With pics
#5
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Re: (spintboy)
if your not sure dont do it.... thats my rule. i would go get a chiltons or haynes manual, it can walk you through the steps w/ pictures so you know your getting the correct info.
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Re: (93egSLEEPER)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93egSLEEPER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your not sure dont do it.... thats my rule. i would go get a chiltons or haynes manual, it can walk you through the steps w/ pictures so you know your getting the correct info.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I might just check it out.
They actually have walkthrough on how to remove head?
I might just check it out.
They actually have walkthrough on how to remove head?
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Re: (spintboy)
do you have to drain the coolant first? I have a b18c1 and after I removed the coolant hose on the intake manifold, a lot of it came out on my floor. is that sufficiently drained or do i have to open the bleeder screw on the radiator before removing the head?
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Re: (tekstyle)
What I usually do is drain all the fluid - coolant and oil. After that I'll remove the valve cover and set the block to TDC. Before taking any bolts from the head, I'll remove the upper timing belt cover and then loosen the crank pulley bolt. From there on, I would loosen the timing belt just to give some slack on the cam gears. Then just remove the bolts on both the exhaust and intake manifold sides until you reach the 10 head bolts beneath it.
* Since the motor is out of the car, it isn't necessary to drain any fluids.
* Since the motor is out of the car, it isn't necessary to drain any fluids.
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Re: (Hardedge)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hardedge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Head bolts aren't that hard. Just have someone hold the motor still and use a long tool (such as an 18"+ flex handle). Other than that, it's pretty straight forward as already stated. Don't be intimidated by it, it's just nuts and bolts, you can't really hurt anything while taking it apart. The only thing would be to unseat the head gradually and evenly. In fact there's a loosening sequence that I'll look up for you right now.
EDIT: Here's the loosening sequence for a B16A2 (should be exactly the same for your engine). Loosen each bolt 1/3 of a turn at a time.
Intake
3 7 9 5 1
4 8 10 6 2
Exhaust
Modified by Hardedge at 12:20 AM 1/7/2008
Modified by Hardedge at 12:21 AM 1/7/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
is the tightening sequence the same as above? i am using ARP studs
EDIT: Here's the loosening sequence for a B16A2 (should be exactly the same for your engine). Loosen each bolt 1/3 of a turn at a time.
Intake
3 7 9 5 1
4 8 10 6 2
Exhaust
Modified by Hardedge at 12:20 AM 1/7/2008
Modified by Hardedge at 12:21 AM 1/7/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
is the tightening sequence the same as above? i am using ARP studs
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