Would this cause a CEL
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (RabbittZ)
mine didn't when it cracked. runners 3 and 4 were complealy spereated from the cat on my manifold and i had no codes. maybe yours got damaged?
oh btw, don't wast your time welding that. cast iron is a bitch to weld and the welds ususaly crack soon there-after. my welds lasted 9 months at the longest. try to find a new manifold
oh btw, don't wast your time welding that. cast iron is a bitch to weld and the welds ususaly crack soon there-after. my welds lasted 9 months at the longest. try to find a new manifold
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (snail)
Get a multi-meter.
Unplug the O2 from the engine wiring harness.
Measure the resistance between the two black wires. It should read between 10-30 ohms. If yours does not, you have to replace it...you can not fix the heater section of the O2 sensor, only replace the entire unit.
I just went through the same thing, but for the 2nd O2. When I measured mine, it measured >100k ohms and had 170k miles on it.
Unplug the O2 from the engine wiring harness.
Measure the resistance between the two black wires. It should read between 10-30 ohms. If yours does not, you have to replace it...you can not fix the heater section of the O2 sensor, only replace the entire unit.
I just went through the same thing, but for the 2nd O2. When I measured mine, it measured >100k ohms and had 170k miles on it.
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#9
Re: (EE_Chris)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a multi-meter.
Unplug the O2 from the engine wiring harness.
Measure the resistance between the two black wires. It should read between 10-30 ohms. If yours does not, you have to replace it...you can not fix the heater section of the O2 sensor, only replace the entire unit.
I just went through the same thing, but for the 2nd O2. When I measured mine, it measured >100k ohms and had 170k miles on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nice info....i'v got the same code gues i'll be doing what you did here real soon....dose code 41 effect performance at all???
Unplug the O2 from the engine wiring harness.
Measure the resistance between the two black wires. It should read between 10-30 ohms. If yours does not, you have to replace it...you can not fix the heater section of the O2 sensor, only replace the entire unit.
I just went through the same thing, but for the 2nd O2. When I measured mine, it measured >100k ohms and had 170k miles on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nice info....i'v got the same code gues i'll be doing what you did here real soon....dose code 41 effect performance at all???
#10
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I have the same code, I havent tested it but in the helms there is a complete step by step trouble shooting to check if its the 02 sensor or maybe a wire going to the ecu thats cut or touching a ground
#11
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Re: (jetpilot)
Im guessing my O2 is bad instead of a wire going to the ECU, and from what I hear the code 41 makes your ECU or at least my p28 run in a safemode without VTEC
#15
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Re: (jetpilot)
hah this is too funny, I had lost the green connector from the wiring harness so I am using slide on pins to the vtec ground and pressure. I had the Ground and the pressure mixed up pulls all the way to 7200 now
#17
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Land of the Heat, Az, USA
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Re: (jetpilot)
i had my stock exhuast mani cracked all the way around.. the giant flange from the manifold was the only thing keeping it on.. my car never threw a cell... but i just recently replced my exhuast mani and i felt a loss in torque.. when it was cracked my car would always give off a loud garggling sound when it was warming up... good side is that my car is fixed... bad side is i miss the power, even though it wasn't much but i could really feel the difference
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