pjean_07

I have a b16a2 and just changed my clutch and pressure plate for a xtd stage 3 yesterday and i went for a lil drive and everything was working fine till after 5 min i was unable to change gears.. it was stuck on neutral! i tried the method shown in this video to bleed my clutch juste before i leave by the way. please help me.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uj1dM...eature=related

92lxsleeper

bleed just like you would do your brake system.

phootbag

Does the clutch pedal stay on the floor when you push it down?

OneFire

You check your clutch slave cylinder to see if it didn't detach itself? Because mine did the same thing and this was the culprit.

pjean_07

The clutch pedal stays on the floor when i open the bleeder valve yes. and when i close it still stays on the floor you have to pull it with your hand to get back to its original position.

pjean_07

Do you mean if the shift fork is moving ? because when i removed the rubber cover on the slave cylinder i saw the end of the slave cylinder pushing that shift fork.. so that would tell it works normally?

OneFire

But I do think we have the same problem because everything you described in this thread is what happened to me.

http://image.superstreetonline.com/f...e_cylinder.jpg

I know it's a diff car but same thing. Anyways, when I pushed on mine it would move forward but not move back. Does that make sense? I'll get a better explaination Lol

azandford

ebay clutch ftw

chanek

Try to bleeding couple times on your clutch also check out the line on the on the bleeder, if its bend, will not working good. Mine was like that too and I have to bleeding so many times in order to work. As a matter of fact, I have empty the brake fluid can in order to get its to work. That's many times I have to bleed...

chanek

If that's does not help, then you have to redo your clutch again...

pjean_07

Well when i try to bleed the clutch it does not come back (i think this is normal) but when the bleeder valve is closed it does come back like usual

pjean_07

ohh i see..when i bleed for the first time just after i was done with the clutch, it did not even took 3 times and it was working.. and after that litle drive i tried again to bleed it for 10 times i would say using different methods and it still wont go into gears.. im not even sure aniway if i was bleeding corectly.. the line is looking good and dont see any place where the fluid has leak..

pjean_07

If the shift fork is moving when the pedal is pushed does it means the hydraulics line are working fine and that the line is bleed corectly ? im confused..

EJeff8

Well, first off, I really hope this isn't your DD.

1. A S3 Clutch in a DD is stupid. They are racing clutches and only perform correctly if given enough heat. Unless you beat your DD on the road everyday, there's no way in hell you'll get it hot enough.

2. Pro clutches such as Spectre, Exedy and ACT are unstable as it is and can have disastrous results in a tranny due to improper installation and simply, a bad product. And you went with an Ebay clutch. You'll be lucky if it holds together through a year, let alone slips and becomes soggy within 6 months. Don't beat the hell out of it for a good 500 miles. Be ginger as hell, but when you buy the wrong clutch for street setup, you've really already screwed yourself.

pjean_07

im sorry what do you mean by DD ? and the reason i installed a stage 3 is because im going turbo soon.. i already got most of the parts and tought i could spend the break in period on the clutch before i install the turbo kit so it would break in propelly? I did not beat it when ive done the first drive and the installation was from a diy that i found on ht right here. I did follow all the torque specs and the bearings provided in the kit were also changed... thanks for the reply

pjean_07

did you mean daily driver? lol

pjean_07

We finally found the problem! i did not adjust my clutch pedal travel so when i was pushing the pedal all the way through the pressure plate was not touching the flywheel because it has passed the release point where it was supose to..it was too far away.. its kind of hard to explain but now we adjust the pedal further to the floor so when the pedal is pushed all the way down its finally working properly.. Its very weird that xtd did not mention on their installation sheets to adjust the pedal travel when installing a stage 3... aniway thanks all guys for your help.

EJeff8

^Yes, Daily driver. Didnt mean to be a jackass but if it's your DD, that's way too much clutch. You would've been just fine with a Stage 1 Exedy with an ACT flywheel.

OneFire

Glad you figured it out and thanks for the update OP! Just incase this happens to anyone else in future Lol.

pjean_07

is there anything major that can happen?

pjean_07

yeah everything was working fine when we adjust the pedal travel but yesterday when i was driving around it started to do the same thing that hapened to you: i was able to push the clutch pedal all the way down but when i was leaving my foot of the pedal it was releasing extremly slowly by itself.. i couldnt accelerate quicky neither because it was slipping at about 3-4000rpm ! so i got over the side of the road and pulled on my clutch pedal not even a half inche with my hand (even still the pedal was resting at its original position or so i think) and i heard a small noise near the master cylinder and worked good after..aniway i did not took any chances and get to my local autoparts store today and it was working alright but i bring a new slave cylinder just in case that would be the culprit you said? or this could be the master cylinder...

EJeff8

Or it could be the Ebay clutch.^

ChokolAwt

iTrader: (1)

pjean, dont listen to special. he let the world know his stupidity by agreeing with your stages.

dont think of clutches in stages. think of it in torque ratings. what can the clutch/pressure plate safely hold?

you should have matched your turbo setup/intended hp and torque with a clutch that fits that. who knows, maybe you're going to be pushing >278 torque (which is what your clutch is rated at).



with that being said. i've owned an xtd clutch/pressure plate before, their "stage 2," and the only problem i had was the pressure plate bolts backing off after a year of driving. more than likely it was my fault for not torquing the bolts down to factory spec but rather what i felt was tight enough. so pretty much no problems with my setup. as far as i know the owner now is still using it and driving it with no problems.

EdSales

A Stage 1 Clutch on a Turbo? Really? I bet the thing would slip on the Dyno during the tuning.

I've ran a Stage 3 Ebay on my RSX Type-S and a Stage 4 Ebay on my Turbo'd Civic. Never had any problems with them, Stage 3 Ebay has 30K+ 3 Years on it, while the Stage 4 has 2K+ Miles over 6 Months. I haven't heard of a story where they have acted up, although with it being Ebay shouldn't be surprised. I think mine were F1 Racing and Exedy.

But like poster above said, don't listen to anything SpecialBrownie is saying, he is ignorant and is clearly talking from inexperience.

pjean_07

Im glad to read your experience with xtd. I was not really assuming that clutchs are rated by their stage but instead like you said by their capacity to handle more or less torque. And i did not wanted to take any chances of slipping through gears so this is why i choose a clutch/PP that could handle a lot more torque than ill be really pushing..