madjap

I've read all the threads about setting idle, cleaning the FITV and the EACV.

I am at a wit's end. Really.

It all started when I changed the head on the D16Z6. After reassembly, I had a funky idle. It is not idling high, but rather really low. So low that when I have the AC on, and the car at a light (it's an auto), it dives below 500 RPMS and dies. Without the AC, it seems to idle okay.

Since it is idling low, and not high, I don't think it's a vacuum leak. I checked for it anyways.

Here's what I've done so far.

Changed head / timing belt. I've checked the valvetrain timing twice. It's dead on.

Adjusted ignition timing to spec.

Cleaned the TB and the EACV and the FITV.

Adjusted idle screw to spec.

I still have the issue of the super low idle with AC on.

Am I missing something? What else can I check?

Jockone

Adjust the throttle stop screw to desired idle.

Sleeper95ej

Check your FITV for adjustment..if is out of spec, your idle will be affected.

Also check the intake ports for blockage, friend had a dc2 with a hose clamp lodged in the intake port of cyl 4 and couldnt figure out where his throttle response went..idle wasnt largely affected, but $hit in the way is never cool..of coarse our intake ports aren't easily seen into....outta sight, outta mind.

madjap

BUMP!

Help!

Former User

Is there an idle problem only when the A/C is on? For example, does the engine also idle too low with the high beams, rear window defroster, and vent (MAX) on?

madjap

It seems that it's anything load related. A/C, of course, being the largest load you can put on an engine at idle.

All the other loads, the EACV seems to be able to compensate.

Can a flaky O2 sensor do this? I think it might be original, and I was going to replace it anyways, because the exhaust stinks at idle.

Former User

These two statements seem contradictory. If you do the test I mentioned, is the idle speed too low. If so, focus on the IACV system. If not, focus on the A/C system.

Any CEL codes? How old are the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor? Have you inspected them?

honda_sanchez21

you might wat to change the o-2 sensor

madjap

Th plugs, wires, cap and rotor are all within new 2000 miles.

No CEL codes at all.

Checking on the high beam / rear defroster loads now.

madjap

It bogs down with AC on only. When high beam / rear defroster / climate fan is kicked on, it dips for just a half a second, then recovers immediately. I would say that part is functioning properly...it does NOT bog down with electrical load, only physical load of the compressor.

That being said, if the AC kicks on and works, that means that the signal is present in the ECU, and it should compensate for the AC compressor load, correct?

Former User

If the problem is A/C specific, then check whether the condenser fans runs and whether the condenser is clogged with road debris, which prevents cooling of refrigerant and high pressure on the high side.

madjap

Well well.......

The issue turned out to be an overcharged AC system.

Stuck manifold gauges on it, and found that it was overfilld by maybe 5 oz.
Sucked some out, and it now appears to idle acceptably.

I guess on low torque motors like the D16, everything counts.

Thanks everyone for chiming in.

JAP