apexi_rsx

I currently have been trying to pass my car through emissions . ive got everything else to pass but the brakes. I have done alot to the car since i last tagged the car. Since i tagged it i have done a brake line tuck,wilwood 7/8" boosterless master cylinder, and rear disc brake swap. Everything passes fine . front brakes pass and my deceleration passes. the rear brakes seem to not be grabbing equally. Everything passes but the rear drivers side brakes. It is just a few percents from barely passing but not quiet enough.I can tell they are working as the rotor gets warm and u can tell when alil rust is on the rotor it cleans it off. I have looked over all my brake lines for kinks possibly and can not find any. I do not have any leaks. I checked where i bent the lines inside the cab to see if there were any kinks but i could not find any.I also replaced the caliper and rear brake hose (thinking maybe it collapsed inside) I swapped the portioning valve like i was suposed to when doing the disc swap. Ive bleed the lines multiple times and everything i have done has not improved the brakes at all. I bought a wilwood adjustable brake portioning valve but have not installed it as i was looking to return it if its not going to help. Does anyone know if i HAVE to use the brake booster to pass the brake test? Has anyone ever passed the brake test using the Boosterless Wilwood 7/8" master cylinder? does anyone have any ideas what could be the problem? Would the wilwood adjustable portioning valve from anyones exsperience help at all?

howangseg

use a wilwood brake line bias adjuster?

apexi_rsx

i got a wilwood adjustable portioning valve i can use,but ive read mix reviews on it. some say it only helps the back brakes from locking up before the front and thats all. According to my analysis the front is getting 25% more brake to the front then the rear. would this proportioning valve allow for me to even this out and possibly give me enough brake to pass? i always thought the front brakes gets more then the back anyway. some forums people say this valve will not add any more pressure to the back... anyone else have any insight?

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

I think you are at a catch 22 kind of moment.
You have to try something or you wont get your yearly sticker right?
Put it in and see what you get.
Has to be better than failing right?

apexi_rsx

yeah .....i guess so.... i feel like its been a money pit for something so stupid as the car passes everything but one brake not evenly pressured in the rear. id hate to install one more thing and it no pass again ... eyyy yi yi

jbpnoman

Before you installed the new prop valve, did you spray it out with compressed air? It's quite possible something is stuck in it, keeping it from distributing fluid correctly.

I would go ahead and put in the manual valve, though. You already have an (almost) full system, why not just finish it the right way?

gotslicks

Emissions has nothing to do with safety inspection. What state are you in so I can look up the emissions/safety program.

nub

Curious to know how you guys think an adjustable proportioning vavle is going to majically increase the the line pressure in the system. The answer is it's NOT. With the valve wide open it's the same as the valve not being there at all. As you close the valve you're limiting or taking pressure away.


Also would like to know what year/make/model, what loction and what this "brake test" is.

apexi_rsx

im from delaware and the car is a 97 honda civic 4dr dx.... but i did the rear disc conversion and am running the chasebays brakeline tuck kit and 7/8" boosterless wilwood master cylinder. the stock master cylinder has 2 outlets and this master cylinder only has one.

I also thought the same thing from what i have read. but there has to be some differance as the drum and disc brakes have different portioning valves . It seems to be a critical thing when doing the disc swap which i did swap valves. i dont know if there is a way to see if its the right one or not. i do have the stock booster and master cylinder still but i wasnt going to install all that if i didnt have to. i dont understand how the manual brake system will not pass. the brakes pass in the front , they passed the front to rear test, the deceleration test. the rear the passenger side is locking up more then the drivers side. the rotor on the passangers side is hot to the touch after a short ride and the drivers side is luke warm.

the test includes: front axle balance left to right , rear axle left and right, front and rear, deceleration, and velocity test. i could take a pic of the results if anyone cares to see.

gotslicks

Hmmmm I did some research and deleware has some crazy inspection emissions tests. Note to self. Don't move to deleware. Lol.
How do you have the lines run. Explain to me where they go from the master.
Have you inpected he rear calipers with the car in the air to see if one is dragging a little after the brakes are released. Have you checked the slides on the caliper to make sure it floats. A stuck caliper slide would make one side warmer yhan the other due to the pad dragging.

gotslicks

Nub read this lol it's nuts. Seems they only have 4 stations and got this **** on lock. Every car I'm deleware must be perfect. I will buy my next used car from there.
http://www.dmv.de.gov/forms/veh_serv...anual_2012.pdf

joakwin

how are the line(s) ran to the rear brakes,
a single line with a T then to ea wheel?
is the T fitting in the middle?
does the line in any section run above the T fitting?
if so then air could be getting trapped in the high spot, and if so then lift that rear wheel and bleed again

apexi_rsx

Mine has separate lines at the proportioning valve to the rear brakes. there is no T. i have one T at the firewall that comes from the master cyinder and breaks off into 2 lines to the portioning valve one going to the front and one goes to the rear. then one out to each wheel from the portioning valve.

jbpnoman

You skipped my question - did you clean out the proportioning valve with compressed air before installing it?

apexi_rsx

no i didnt blow it out with a compressor yet but i did have the line off fixing what i thought was a kink and the brake petal was hit a few times pushing fluid thru with the line off. unless its stuck in there pretty good or might need blown out the other way.