Wierd Starting problems/idle issues
#1
Wierd Starting problems/idle issues
Hey guys, it's me again, feels like I'm sucking the knowledge out of you guys....lol
So my bro has a 2000 honda civic SI, his clutch goes out, and he replaces it with a stage 2 grippower racing clutch, and then the problems start...
First when he tries to turn on the car from a cold start, it takes him about 2 key turns to get the engine started, it then starts, but it chokes and he has to give it some gas and keep it on for at least one or two minutes till the engine gets warm, it then is able to keep idle on it's own, and there is another problem there, the idle is too high...before with the old clutch (stock btw) it would idle around 800 rpm's, it now idles around 1400 rpms.
He has tried the following solutions:
-Changing the coolant temp sensor, no cigar.
-Adjusted the Distributor Cap, no cigar.
-Adjusted the Throttle Body, no cigar.
-Tested the IAT Sensor with an OHMmeter and it tested 1.8ohms cold, .8 hot, so we both assumed it was good, knowing that a difference less than 500 ohms = bad sensor.
-We've also tried to reset the ECU (which probabaly wont' change anything) by unplugging the battery for a few minutes
One more thing, the VTEC doesn't kick in at all, and we're assuming that it's because of the CEL light coming on, or is that a bad assumption? Any input is appreciated, thanks guys.
Mitch
So my bro has a 2000 honda civic SI, his clutch goes out, and he replaces it with a stage 2 grippower racing clutch, and then the problems start...
First when he tries to turn on the car from a cold start, it takes him about 2 key turns to get the engine started, it then starts, but it chokes and he has to give it some gas and keep it on for at least one or two minutes till the engine gets warm, it then is able to keep idle on it's own, and there is another problem there, the idle is too high...before with the old clutch (stock btw) it would idle around 800 rpm's, it now idles around 1400 rpms.
He has tried the following solutions:
-Changing the coolant temp sensor, no cigar.
-Adjusted the Distributor Cap, no cigar.
-Adjusted the Throttle Body, no cigar.
-Tested the IAT Sensor with an OHMmeter and it tested 1.8ohms cold, .8 hot, so we both assumed it was good, knowing that a difference less than 500 ohms = bad sensor.
-We've also tried to reset the ECU (which probabaly wont' change anything) by unplugging the battery for a few minutes
One more thing, the VTEC doesn't kick in at all, and we're assuming that it's because of the CEL light coming on, or is that a bad assumption? Any input is appreciated, thanks guys.
Mitch
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: can't find parking in baltimore
Posts: 3,156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Wierd Starting problems/idle issues
Hey guys, it's me again, feels like I'm sucking the knowledge out of you guys....lol
So my bro has a 2000 honda civic SI, his clutch goes out, and he replaces it with a stage 2 grippower racing clutch, and then the problems start...
First when he tries to turn on the car from a cold start, it takes him about 2 key turns to get the engine started, it then starts, but it chokes and he has to give it some gas and keep it on for at least one or two minutes till the engine gets warm, it then is able to keep idle on it's own, and there is another problem there, the idle is too high...before with the old clutch (stock btw) it would idle around 800 rpm's, it now idles around 1400 rpms.
He has tried the following solutions:
-Changing the coolant temp sensor, no cigar.
-Adjusted the Distributor Cap, no cigar.
-Adjusted the Throttle Body, no cigar.
-Tested the IAT Sensor with an OHMmeter and it tested 1.8ohms cold, .8 hot, so we both assumed it was good, knowing that a difference less than 500 ohms = bad sensor.
-We've also tried to reset the ECU (which probabaly wont' change anything) by unplugging the battery for a few minutes
One more thing, the VTEC doesn't kick in at all, and we're assuming that it's because of the CEL light coming on, or is that a bad assumption? Any input is appreciated, thanks guys.
Mitch
So my bro has a 2000 honda civic SI, his clutch goes out, and he replaces it with a stage 2 grippower racing clutch, and then the problems start...
First when he tries to turn on the car from a cold start, it takes him about 2 key turns to get the engine started, it then starts, but it chokes and he has to give it some gas and keep it on for at least one or two minutes till the engine gets warm, it then is able to keep idle on it's own, and there is another problem there, the idle is too high...before with the old clutch (stock btw) it would idle around 800 rpm's, it now idles around 1400 rpms.
He has tried the following solutions:
-Changing the coolant temp sensor, no cigar.
-Adjusted the Distributor Cap, no cigar.
-Adjusted the Throttle Body, no cigar.
-Tested the IAT Sensor with an OHMmeter and it tested 1.8ohms cold, .8 hot, so we both assumed it was good, knowing that a difference less than 500 ohms = bad sensor.
-We've also tried to reset the ECU (which probabaly wont' change anything) by unplugging the battery for a few minutes
One more thing, the VTEC doesn't kick in at all, and we're assuming that it's because of the CEL light coming on, or is that a bad assumption? Any input is appreciated, thanks guys.
Mitch
what code??????????
#5
Re: Wierd Starting problems/idle issues
Code 110, which if i'm not mistaken the IAT Sensor, which is why we Ohmed it to check if it was working, and it was
We just came back from a car shop and tested a brand new out of the box IAT sensor and it tested the same as the one currently in the car.
We just came back from a car shop and tested a brand new out of the box IAT sensor and it tested the same as the one currently in the car.
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: can't find parking in baltimore
Posts: 3,156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Wierd Starting problems/idle issues
110?
10 is IAT.. which has the most power over the air/fuel ratio of any sensor.
its plugged in right? lol
OH GOD... I KNOW WHAT IT IS
when you went back and plugged in the harness you got the IACV and IAT plugs switched.
lol... go try it out. makes perfect sense. no IACV code because the iat sensor is a resistor just like the innards of the iacv motor. IAT code comes up because the resistance of the iacv motor never changes with coolant temp change.... thus check engine light. and the steady 5v current on the IAT circuit keeps the IACV open... thus THE ****ED UP IDLE!!
dude lets have a beer
10 is IAT.. which has the most power over the air/fuel ratio of any sensor.
its plugged in right? lol
OH GOD... I KNOW WHAT IT IS
when you went back and plugged in the harness you got the IACV and IAT plugs switched.
lol... go try it out. makes perfect sense. no IACV code because the iat sensor is a resistor just like the innards of the iacv motor. IAT code comes up because the resistance of the iacv motor never changes with coolant temp change.... thus check engine light. and the steady 5v current on the IAT circuit keeps the IACV open... thus THE ****ED UP IDLE!!
dude lets have a beer
#7
Re: Wierd Starting problems/idle issues
110?
10 is IAT.. which has the most power over the air/fuel ratio of any sensor.
its plugged in right? lol
OH GOD... I KNOW WHAT IT IS
when you went back and plugged in the harness you got the IACV and IAT plugs switched.
lol... go try it out. makes perfect sense. no IACV code because the iat sensor is a resistor just like the innards of the iacv motor. IAT code comes up because the resistance of the iacv motor never changes with coolant temp change.... thus check engine light. and the steady 5v current on the IAT circuit keeps the IACV open... thus THE ****ED UP IDLE!!
dude lets have a beer
10 is IAT.. which has the most power over the air/fuel ratio of any sensor.
its plugged in right? lol
OH GOD... I KNOW WHAT IT IS
when you went back and plugged in the harness you got the IACV and IAT plugs switched.
lol... go try it out. makes perfect sense. no IACV code because the iat sensor is a resistor just like the innards of the iacv motor. IAT code comes up because the resistance of the iacv motor never changes with coolant temp change.... thus check engine light. and the steady 5v current on the IAT circuit keeps the IACV open... thus THE ****ED UP IDLE!!
dude lets have a beer
if it works i will love you forever.
Trending Topics
#8
Re: Wierd Starting problems/idle issues
Monkey...thanks alot man!
Although the sensors you mentioned weren't the ones that were connected bad, it was the solution i was looking for, you saved me alot of headache...thanks man *bows*
Turns out the Vtec pressure switch sensor and the coolant temperature were connected to each others sockets, checked my haynes manual and bam! wrong sockets! Switched em to the right spots and my car got fixed immidiately, no CEL or bad idling....phew!
Thanks again, I really appreciate your help!
Although the sensors you mentioned weren't the ones that were connected bad, it was the solution i was looking for, you saved me alot of headache...thanks man *bows*
Turns out the Vtec pressure switch sensor and the coolant temperature were connected to each others sockets, checked my haynes manual and bam! wrong sockets! Switched em to the right spots and my car got fixed immidiately, no CEL or bad idling....phew!
Thanks again, I really appreciate your help!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
2000civicsi
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
10
10-26-2005 04:05 PM