B18C5-EH2

Yep.

Same set-up the B16A will outpower the B18B, but my thing was the initial cost of the B16A vs. the B18B.

DragII

ya B18b can be found for REALLY cheap

DarkSubRosa

i dont know what you have done to your B18B, but my guess is that your getting left because you DONT have vtec...not trying to start an argument, but VTEC is there for a reason, and without it, id have ls integra's beating me, and i have raced ls powered hatchbacks, and won, with my stock jdm b16 in a coupe. only i/e at the time. I'm just trying to say VTEC isn't just a "kick" and it is not in my book. I'd also like to say I plan to stay all-motor, so please dont bring up the turbo ls issue.

mantic6t9

Do you have a web site or anything? Also can you put together a full ls/vtec swap? Let me know.

Travis

Jonathan_ED3

okay, you've obviously never raced a VQ or VE powered Maxima. My bro consistently kills mustang stage 2 Rousch or however you spell it from 40-145 mph. only thing he doesn't have going for him is a 5 speed...we're doing a swap in the next few months, and i'm gonna say he's gonna be runnin 13's EASILY. now, my other friend has a b16 with 11.5 pistons in his 90 CRX DX. guy does a 14.3 on street tires.....BUT he still gets walked by the maxima after about 50 mph...over and over and over again. from a stop, he'll kill the maxima...i'm speaking in terms of like a 20mph punch.....crx pulls out about a fender till about 50mph, bye bye CRX.

Fred---either swap will be faster than your Maxima straight line if you race from a stop. but i'm telling you right now...you start out with more HP and TQ with your VQ powered Maxima than my bro does in his VE Max....so expect the Maxima to pull whichever car after 50mph. I'm speaking from experience here. I hate to say it...but VE and VQ Maximas have very nice top end. Fred will tell you himself. Only thing my bro's lost to from 50mph+ are LS1 camaros and TT supras. Si's, Type R's, B16 swaps...all of (excluding turboed cars) he's killed over and over. as far as best bang for the buck, the B16 might give you more tuning options down the road, but stock for stock, i'm right there with b16 hatchbacks in the 1/4 mile. all i have is exhaust and a POS intake. Go for the b16.

Maks--crvtec IS 'ls/vtec'...i say ls/vtec in terms of the concept, not specifically 'b18b1' with vtec head. sorry i didn't make myself clear.

djay86

how cheap is really cheap?

Kool305

GO with the B18C JAP SPEC if you have seen early videos of green hatchy from FF - squad lee's old news hatchy that hatch has the b18C jap spec engine and you will be happy trust me that is what im doing dropping it in JULY 8 paychecks away

FELIX

Superhatch

I just did a b18b swap in my EF (dont throw any stones) and my total bill was about 2800 after everything.

engine (auto) 550 shipped
tranny 350 (ls)
mounts 400
clutch 320
flywheel (lucked out) 45
axles 140
halfshaft 60
distb 100
starter 45
ecu 75

I had to buy a bracket, and other things for the ef swap that you wont have to...so there is a rough estimate.

-Jake

DragII

under a G for a complete swap
http://www.car-part.com

CrazyHondaBoy

Bingo, that the easiest way to make HP out of those crvtec.

tECH_

agreed

If you are keeping the stock internals go with the b18c. It's just so much more fun to drive than the b16, boosted or not.

If your looking to build the engine go b20 vtec.


[Modified by tECH_, 10:57 PM 4/12/2002]

EG6-SiR

In my country, everyone uses b18c blocks with b16a heads simply because its getting impossible to find B18C full motors, ecus, wiring, intake manifolds etc...

They all get shipped off to the US for you folks where you pay perhaps 2-3x the price...
2 years ago we were able to get B18C longblocks still in Honda's plastic factory wrap for around $800US, and a full swap kit for around $1200US...
Now we're lucky if we can find any parts for B18C, but still plenty of B16a and CRV stuff...
Also still plenty of H22a's h23a's etc...

DarkSubRosa

[QUOTE
okay, you've obviously never raced a VQ or VE powered Maxima. My bro consistently kills mustang stage 2 Rousch or however you spell it from 40-145 mph. only thing he doesn't have going for him is a 5 speed...we're doing a swap in the next few months, and i'm gonna say he's gonna be runnin 13's EASILY. now, my other friend has a b16 with 11.5 pistons in his 90 CRX DX. guy does a 14.3 on street tires.....BUT he still gets walked by the maxima after about 50 mph...over and over and over again. from a stop, he'll kill the maxima...i'm speaking in terms of like a 20mph punch.....crx pulls out about a fender till about 50mph, bye bye CRX.
[/QUOTE]

ok, not tryin to knock your friends crx, because a 14.3 is respectable, but definately not impressive( considering the weight of a crx and his high compression) to me since i pulled a 14.5 in my stock jdm b16 with only intake and exhaust, and if you say your beating hybrid eg's, then that includes me, and then that would put you, in a B18B basically stock, running the same times as your friend. And honestly, no ive never raced that maxima your talking about, although there was a maxima that was newer running 14.9's at the track last time I went. So I'll give ya the 50 mph rolling loss. but then again, im not staying with my b16 block, i agree the b18 torque is nice, which is why im building a b18b block to be resleeved to 84.5 mm. I just dont see a stock B18b beating me at least, I cant speak for other hybrid people, but Id be pissed if a stock B18b beat me.

project EK

forget b16 or 18, go with a b20... you'd fly

fcuked

Well i have a 92 dx hatch with a '95 b18b1, '00 gsr tranny, and ITR flywheel. My car is absolutely stock, as far as exhaust, headers, intake. I even run the DX exhaust still. Now my friend '93 si hatch with b16a1, intake and exhaust and some other goods raced me a few times. Long story short, i won. He is also a better driver than me.

EgRedSi

jeef84

There is no replacement for displacement. B18C1, y0. That's the best BANG for the buck. Just my .02.

FlatBrokeHatch

back from the dead.

HiProfile

IMO its not that any one motor is better than another - it really depends on what car its going into and how its going to be used. Here are my opinions. For what it's worth, I drive a 94 CX hb with a 95 B18B1, rarely redline it, do lots of highway driving - and still loving my decision.


B16 (99-00 SI & JDM SiR's) - great if you don't mind reving the **** outta it and turning high rpm's on the freeway, not a good idea for cars that aren't very light, okay for built turbo setups when using street tires

B18A/B (Integra LS) - excellent value, great for daily driving and cheap turbo setups (I.E. 250whp daily driven @10psi), parts are also fairly cheap

B18C1 (Integra GSR) - bad value (IMO based on Wisconsin pricing/availibility), good for daily driving but better for going really fast, easy 300+ whp with a good turbo

B18C5 (ITR) - even worse value (again IMO - price/performance; would rather buy a 2nd used car ), great for going reeeally fast w/o any other mods, Comp Ratio is too high to boost w/o a good tune or forged internals

B20B/Z (Old/New CR-V) - great value for a daily driver, no 'complete swap' (unless you want AWD ), great potential if you don't like turbos.

LS/VTEC (B18A/B & B16 head) - great substitution for a GSR, great price, but requires more time to source & build, great for big turbos w/forged pistons & rods

CR-VTEC (B20B/Z & B16 head) - awsome for daily driving AND smoking other ricers, but more costly to build, bad choice for a turbo (unless you like spending cash building it)

Mashimaro

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jeef84 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no replacement for displacement. B18C1, y0. That's the best BANG for the buck. Just my .02.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup, the domestic guys are rite about this one...

build up a B16 and B18C with the same mods, and the B18C will make more power.

btw, i've got a B18C and i love it..motor is smooth, tranny has fairly tight gearing...but the JDM ecu cuts the power at 180kms/h apparently...

keep your eyes open. i found my JDM B18C for cheaper than a USDM B16...

got00rice

they do this set up for a poors man type r. with the type r internal on the b18c bottom and used the b16 head.

prplhrtcivic

If someone were debating which was better to start from, if they DIDN't already have one, unless they have an unlimited cash flow (some people do seem to have that), B18 8 days a week, FTW, all the way.

Not a SINGLE time have I gone to the junkyard and NOT seen at least a partial B18 there, and often a longblock.

You can't beat that. And the difference in aftermarket parts availability is slim to none between the two.

Vindicator9000

Incorrect. B18 heads have smaller chambers than B16 and thus more compression.

True, but a B18 head has smaller chambers and better compression, so they even out.

For all motor applications, I would argue that the B18 is better. for turbo, the B16 is probably better value for money because any less horsepower you can make up for with boost.

For big builds though, there's no replacement for displacement.

And they're really not that much. I got my complete 2001 B18C1 swap, B16 tranny, ECU, power steering, and a big box of mounts and parts for like $2100.

supra-n-civic

b16a has better flow characteristics but the gsr bottom end is a higher displacment allowign for more ALL motor potential

Deetz

The big head debate yet again!!! You believe too much what people on the band wagon say.

Both PR3 (b16a) and P72 (B18C1) flow about the same.....they are so close in fact, i don't know why people argue. On a dyno, stock for stock on the same bottom end.....the P72 makes MORE hp on the lower rpm range (by 2-3hp) and the PR3 makes its 2-3hp advantage in the higher rpm range that's it!!!!!!!!!!!!

Is one better than the other NO!