Civicman86

I have bleed the system 3 times now. And the pedal still feels soft. It is drivable but definatly would not work well when I autocross.

Here is exactly what I did:

1. I jacked car off the ground.
2. Took all wheels off.
3. Used piece of vaccum tube that fit tight over the bleed valve.
4. Filled a water bottle up with about 2" of clean brake fluid.
5. Put other end of vacuum line into the bottle and submerged it in fluid.
6. I then had someone sit in the car pump the brake pedal 3 times and hold the pedal down as far as it would go.
7. I then opened the bleeder valve. When the person in the car told me when the pedal went to the floor I closed the valve up.
8. When it was closed I told the person in the car they could let the pedal go and repeated the process.

I did this process each time until there were no more bubble coming out of the line. Order I bleed them was PR, DF, DR, PF. Also after about four repetitions of the above process I added clean fluid to the reservoir. The reservoir never got low to the min line (in fact it i don't think it got below the half way point between the max and min lines)

Also I don't think it makes much difference but I just did a disk conversion on the back of the car (that is why I am doing this).

sol2hatch

Make sure you start at the farthest point from the resevoir, the passenger rear, then the other side, then the passenger front, then the driver front last. Also, your disk conversion is going to change your pedal feel. Look into getting a different prop valve.

Civicman86

I'm using the Si 4040 prop. valve.

I did passenger rear then driver front (diagonals). then driver rear, pass. front.

Would that really make that much of a difference? I had a feeling it would be different but I know just by feel that its not right, it defiantly wouldn't hold up to my autocrossing.

instructor74

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civicman86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm using the Si 4040 prop. valve.

I did passenger rear then driver front (diagonals). then driver rear, pass. front.

Would that really make that much of a difference? I had a feeling it would be different but I know just by feel that its not right, it defiantly wouldn't hold up to my autocrossing. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You have it in the right order. The brake system is tied rr to lf and lr to rf in case there is failure in one of the lines or calipers so you still have some braking ability with a front and a rear brake

Luserkid

Make sure the side your working on is more elevated then the others, so the air bubbles can raise to the top. It sounds like you had the car level while you bleed. Also i always finish the bleed with the master cylinder side (driver front) last. Different people different ways though but that always works for me.

Civicman86

Well the first two times I bled the system I raised each corner at a time, the last time i just raised the whole car up to make it all go faster. I'm stumped.

TooManyTickets

did u change your MC when u did the Disc conversion... if u still have the 13/16 you may want to get the 15/16(good stiff pedal) or the 7/8 (Still good)

Civicman86

I'm still using the stock EX MC (13/16 i think).

Civicman86

OK so the EX MC is 7/8 so I should be good with that. I'm not hardly getting any brake pressure until like half the travel of the pedal and even then I don't think there is enough to lock the brakes up.

I'm also thinking maybe when I changed the prop valve that there is still air way up in the lines. So maybe it take a long time to get the air all the way down the lines? Any comment on that theory lol?

Modified by Civicman86 at 6:34 PM 5/31/2007


Modified by Civicman86 at 9:47 AM 6/2/2007

TooManyTickets

Btw what car are the brakes from? if its an Integra.. what MC did the integra have?
If you not happy with where the brakes engage it sounds to me like a MC issue.. now if they were soft then i would think that air would be the problem.

hondamark35

i hear you on the bleeding it a few times but since it is still soft i would just bleed it untill you use a full master cyl. resvr. (obviously refilling when needed) you can just leave the bleeder screw open into your catch can with the hose and let a friend pump the pedal up and down untill you need to refill or move on.

if this doesn't fix it double check for leaks and get used to the feel.

Civicman86

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondamark35 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hear you on the bleeding it a few times but since it is still soft i would just bleed it untill you use a full master cyl. resvr. (obviously refilling when needed) you can just leave the bleeder screw open into your catch can with the hose and let a friend pump the pedal up and down untill you need to refill or move on.

if this doesn't fix it double check for leaks and get used to the feel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think I might try this.

Brakes are from a 2000 Si which I believe also uses a 7/8 MC.

Agent_EM1

Same thing happened with me.. EXACT same thing... I had SI rear brakes installed on my old OO civic EX... The guys told me they forgot to install something... I think it was a cylinder or something... Proportioning valve? I forgot...

Civicman86

I got the 4040 prop. valve. (At least that is what I bought). How can I tell if it is the 4040 and not something else? Anyone know?

hall97civic

you need to bleed the brakes in the order farthest from the mc, so pr, dr, pf, df. You very well could have some air bubbles from putting in the proportioning valve.

JDM-EJ698

I think you have a lot of air in the system still.

Civicman86

Alright I think im just going to bleed them again. Ill just keep pumping fluid through the system even if there are no air bubbles.

unbelievableEG

My coupe is having this problem also. Ive bleed the breaks like 3 times now and adjusted the rear shoes but still extremely shot.

I think the master cylinder might just be shot.

94 Supra TT

I've had the same problem.

I replaced calipers, pads, 2 MCs, and switched to stainless lines. And still could not get the car to slam.

Must of bleed them 15 times or so, using two man method.

Only thing I could get to work was to make my own pressure bleeder.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1975987

Now my brakes bite hard, and I'm still sporting drums.

madpipr

air bleed them

open up jack up the rr, then open up the valve. once you start to get fluid go to the next wheel. do that for all the wheels. once all the wheels have fluid coming from them when you open the valve, bleed them again with the 2 man method.

if that doesnt work, go with the master cylinder. if you are using the 4040 then maybe you have a seal going bad in the master cylinder? make sure the brake booster is still connected to vacuum or isnt leaking anywhere also.