Cuong-nutz

what was your overall opinion about it and why?
was it better than before?
im gonna do a rear integra disk break swap and put teg sway on sometime soon.
do yall have any suggestions for me and save me the trouble
TIA

shawnhayes

Swapped onto 1992 Civic CX:
1. Type R spec front brakes (Accord Wagon calipers, prelude VTEC rotors)
2. Rear Civic Del Sol discs
3. Civic disc (4030) proportioning valve (rather than integra 4040)
4. Civic EX master cylinder (we think, - it's a 15/16 but has a big rear output that needed custom bending), and civic EX brake booster.

My opinion:
Every swap above was an improvement. Everything seemed to get better with each prograssive swap. But, to rank how much each one helped is funny:

Without doubt, the master cylinder swap helped the most - and nobody really talks too much about that. Everybody wants bigger stoppers first, it seems to me that the bigger MC made a bigger difference.
The proportioning valve was done at the same time, so I can't really tell.
The front brake change also made a big difference in stopping distance, but lockup comes quicker, and you have to have more skill to make it work properly.
The rear discs helped the least, but change the look of the car the most. Even more, the rear discs work less well as emergency brakes and parking brakes (due to the nature of the mechanical forces required), but they still made the car stop quicker.

Just my $0.02

Shawn

SyndicateEH

Agreed with shawnhayes.
I have..
GSR front and rear brakes
15/16 MC + Booster (non abs teg)
40/40 P.Valve.

When i started the swap we did the fronts plus mc / booster.
That was quite a significant difference! One of the greatest improvements to my car.
rear disks just complemented the larger fronts. i picked them up for a good deal and they had 120K miles less than my OEM setup.

Cuong-nutz

so does the emergency/parking brakes work well with the rear disk swap?
would it be best if i just swap out the front disks/ mc/ bb/ pp/ from the teg and keep the rear drum and put some better brake pads before a do a engine swap...b18b...b18c1

shawnhayes

It works, but if you're used to the rear drums, and using the handbrake, then they will seem very odd, and much less powerful (stopping the car on a downhill with the E-brake with discs is damn near impossible - NOT SO with the drum).

Drums require much less force at slower speeds to slow/stop the car than discs. Discs are MUCH better when powered by hydraulics, because they can deliver a powerful clamping force. So, drums SEEM more effective when connected to the handbrake, and make much better parking brakes than discs, but don't stop as well in performance.

(really, though, have you ever had to try to stop a car with the handbrake, and how effective does the parking brake need to be?)

Once you start monkeying with the system, the best bet is to duplicate what the bias valve was BUILT for. If you're going to modify the system, either modify BOTH front and rear equally, or settle for what you have.

My advice:

If you're going to avoid monkeying with the rear brakes, go for the master cylinder swap first. This will give you more bang for your buck, and require no change to proportioning valve or anything else.

If you commit to changing front brakes, then you will upset the front/rear brake bias, and unless you can fix that, stopping power may actually DECREASE. (It could also get better up to a point, but it could also get worse).

Shawn

B18C5-EH2

If you have a 1992-1995 Civic without ABS, then buy an Integra RS master cylinder. It is the 15/16ths but has NO ABS fittings, so it is a DIRECT replacement for the 13/16ths smaller master cylinder found on non-ABS 1992-1995 Civics. Integra GS-R master cylinders have ABS, so they do not fit right up to your lines if you have no ABS. You would have to cut and re-flare a brake line and use the larger ABS fitting from the GS-R and also bend the hell out of your hard lines - A risk i would not readily take even with a good line bender.

I swapped out the CX brakes for a 1995 GS-R booster and prop valve, 1995 RS master cylinder, and all the 4 corners of 1995 GS-R spindles with Power Stop rotors (Brembo blanks!), Earl's Stainless lines, and AEM pads.

Low-buck upgrade

Can't tell you the difference yet because the car isn't done being built yet.

I'm sure it will stop tons better than my old Si that just had the front Integra spindles w/o the rotors, stainless lines, booster, master cylinder, etc.

Good luck, and for a how to and parts list do a search of recent topics, or click here:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=152884

Good luck!


[Modified by B18C5-EH2, 3:28 AM 3/30/2002]

ahcjar103

great upgrade! i love mine.

drifter

does an itr suspension brake set up swap right in or do you need other parts from different cars.

Charles B.

I did a teg front and rear disc brake conversion, with GSR master cylinder and booster w/o prop. valve. Also added slotted rotors, EBC green stuff, and SS braided lines. Pretty cool when you car is on four jackstands with no wheels. Anyways, I felt a pretty noticeable, positive difference even after the last time i drove my car with the stock brakes was four months ago due to an accident. Very good upgrade/investment I made on my car.

tooqwik1

i didi itr an di love it yea it goes straight on chek it at tooqwik1.com

shawnhayes

Wish somebody had been around to tell ME that when I was doing my upgrade. I have a completely custom line from the back fitting to the prop valve. Yuuck. Learning to do double flares was a pain in the butt.

Shawn