92ehatch

ive done a bit of searching for this but cant really get a definate answer.

i bought a head to replace mine and everything looked ok except the exhaust valves are white.

i just want to know if this means they are bad or is it ok.



thanks guys

Ze Buceta

Weird i have never seen white e valves. Dont know if good or bad.

Hardedge

I have some of that on the exhaust valves of my number three cylinder. It was black, but after some scrubbing with Purple Power it's kind of white. All I know is that was the cylinder I was burning coolant in. Don't know if that helps.

Frickr

valve guides are leaking a little bit, and thats just burt carbon thats got really hot.

92ehatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Frickr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">valve guides are leaking a little bit, and thats just burt carbon thats got really hot. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks

stock_honda_coupe

As long as the valve seat area is good and the rest of the valve isn't too pitted, your good.

Frickr

well if your putting new valves in, i would regrind the valve seats, and lash them for each valve. maybe go with a 3 angle valve job. the just check the guides. if your going to do it, might as well do it right the first time.

92ehatch

well i bought a new head because my old one had bent valves.

the seats in the old one were bad, the guides were bad

this one has a tiny amount of rust.

its 64 bucks to recut the valves and seats at carquest and they will check the valves for bends free.

slowcivic2k

The exhaust valves should be a whitish tan color, that indicates good heat transfer and average combustion. Your engine looks like it was chewing on some oil by the look of the stem. Face of the valve white as well?

The valve seat looks questionable, how long has that valve sat out?

What you've shown is nothing to worry about.

onefine99

it does look like it was using a lil bit of oil

eggmygirl

it looks like its from over heating

92ehatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The exhaust valves should be a whitish tan color, that indicates good heat transfer and average combustion. Your engine looks like it was chewing on some oil by the look of the stem. Face of the valve white as well?

The valve seat looks questionable, how long has that valve sat out?

What you've shown is nothing to worry about.</TD></TR></TABLE>

face of the valve is also white. i dunno how long the head has been sitting as i bought it off ebay.

there was some rust on the seats and such so id say its been sitting a while.

i plan to have the seats and valves cut in and already have new valve stem seals.

there is some play in the guides, dunno if that is any worry or not.

head supposedly has 65k on it

slowcivic2k

Check the guide diameter and compare it to the stem, if they are not in spec, replace the guides or ream them to accept oversize valve stems, and replace the valves.

A split ball gauge can be used for the guide bore, and use a micrometer for the stem.

1992Si

Like was said tanish white is a good thing. It doesn't look that bad. Have the valve job done and put the head on.

HeikDiesel

That doesn't look like burnt carbon to me. I always thought white was coolant but I could be very wrong. let me do some research

gotk20

those deposits on the valve are from burning oil.i would definetly have the guides and seals done.i would have a valve job done.

92ehatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check the guide diameter and compare it to the stem, if they are not in spec, replace the guides or ream them to accept oversize valve stems, and replace the valves.

A split ball gauge can be used for the guide bore, and use a micrometer for the stem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont have a split ball gauge, is there supposed to be any play in the guides ? i dont mind replacing them, but no sense in buying something i dont have too

1992Si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92ehatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i dont have a split ball gauge, is there supposed to be any play in the guides ? i dont mind replacing them, but no sense in buying something i dont have too</TD></TR></TABLE>

The machine shop will tell you what it needs. That's what your paying them for.

slowcivic2k

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92ehatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i dont have a split ball gauge, is there supposed to be any play in the guides ? i dont mind replacing them, but no sense in buying something i dont have too</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes there is supposed to be clearance, or else you'd be metal on metal since metals expand when they get hot.

92ehatch

well found a guy at work (honda dealership) who is willing to let me borrow a split ball guage and micrometer so ill check the clearances. i believe they are ok. i still plan on getting the valves cut.

thanks for the help

Joecivic94

If it is caused by overheating it might be a good idea to get a Precision Straight Edge to check if it is warped.

92ehatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joecivic94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it is caused by overheating it might be a good idea to get a Precision Straight Edge to check if it is warped.</TD></TR></TABLE>

already done that.

the head isnt warped, however there is a raised area around one of the stud holes.

im going to try and knock that raised area down with some sand paper, if that doesnt work ill get it machined