NirVTEC

I will be buying an EG this winter for my GF as a driver, but as spring nears I would like to start getting it ready for Auto-X and Track Days.
Where do I even start with suspension? All the reading I have done in the last 5 years were Prelude related. It seems like a Koni/GC coilover setup is a nice combo for a Lude with 450-500# springs. Is this a good option for a hatch. It is eventually going to receive a B series with bolt-ons, and thats about it. Brakes, wheels, tires aimed for racing will also be a must. What kind of brake swaps can I do from other Hondas?
Damn it feels weird to be a newbie again!
Do I bother buying an Si if I plan to swap motors? Or could I settle for another model?

ace1875

It depends on which Hatch you get... cause the SI suspension is different than the CX, VX, DX.

You have thought of the best place to start with, the suspension.

If you are getting anything other than an SI i would first get a disk swap the coil overs or springs (which ever floats your budget). If its an SI then change only the calipers to GSR's.

Work from bottom up.

Si's are heaver than the rest of the models, if your girl wants "luxury" of sunroof and other bling bling factors get an SI. If you have an option with a swap in close future i would go with a 92 CX.

Why 92? well it cheap in every aspect. Insurance, price and if you are lucky you can get one with VTEC wires already in it.

NirVTEC

Would I be able to do a full GSR brake swap on a NON-Si model?

Is there a huge difference between having a B16 and a B18? I plan to leave the motor internally stock for a long time.

EVIL TYPE R

yes

Hatchd

If you're racing it do not buy an Si. Moon roofs aren't a racers best friend. Also, it's about 300-400lbs heavier than a CX or VX model, those weigh in at 2050 or so stock. I would suggest one of those two models for a race car. They come with power nothing, and AC is optional. Also, the VX does come prewired for vtec which can make a swap a little easier.

If you want to do a brake swap look into swapping to GSR brakes, they are a direct bolt on. I have them on my car and noticed a difference from the shitty CX brakes.

As far as suspension, I have no idea. I'm just starting to research suspension myself.

ace1875

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NirVTECn2o &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would I be able to do a full GSR brake swap on a NON-Si model?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes you can you will have to buy the knuckle and the LCAs cause the other models were different. If you just want front sway bar the SI or teg lower LCA will be needed.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NirVTECn2o &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there a huge difference between having a B16 and a B18? I plan to leave the motor internally stock for a long time.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

nothing but a little torque difference.

NirVTEC

Wow.....You guys move quick in the Civic forum!
$2-3000 Car
$4000 B series with radiator, axels, ecu, harness installed
$1000 suspension GC/KONI
$500 brakes GSR swap with racing pads
$1000 wheels/tires Light 15's with slicks
$1000 bolt-ons Header? Straight pipe no cat
Anything I am missing?

ace1875

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NirVTECn2o &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$4000 B series with radiator, axels, ecu, harness installed</TD></TR></TABLE>
save your self some money and install it yourself, direct bolt on, and for that 4g you can get an ITR baby.

you are missing sway bars, ES bushings, MC and brake booster

clm

Have you done any autocrossing or track events? If not, spend the money on good brakes, new rotors and fluid, and seat time.

If you have done these events before, go with the above.

NirVTEC

Yah, I've done a track day in my Lude and about 15 auto-x events. Brakes/Tires were the key for a fun track day. I used KUMHO/Motul600/HAWK/Stainless lines! Going to buy a TRACK only pad for track days. Some sort of BLACK series.
I just have to much into my Lude now to track it.
Wow, another person that agrees SEAT TIME is the best mod!!!
And its cheap!

I just don't have the time or resources to swap it myself.....I wish I did!


Modified by NirVTECn2o at 6:00 PM 12/6/2003

clm

In that case I'd say you're on the right path. If you want to run over 400# springs on KONI Sports, though, you might want to get them revalved.

Brakes, springs/shocks, and seat time are my recommendations.

Eee Pee

Koni's, R compound tires, and go racing!

The rest of the modifications should be based on what the car (or driver) needs.
So, you should go racing first, and base your wants/needs on what the car needs.

NirVTEC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In that case I'd say you're on the right path. If you want to run over 400# springs on KONI Sports, though, you might want to get them revalved.

Brakes, springs/shocks, and seat time are my recommendations.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was under the impression that the KONIs are good for about 450 before they need to be revalved. Maybe I'll just look for a used set and have that done right away.

You're right though, suspension, brakes, & R compounds and GO RACING!!! I think even the sohc with that stuff would rock the track. Not to mention I could race SOLO II STS in the meantime before I swap the motor.

Eee Pee

Don't worry about the brakes. With good tires you won't need them anyways. Seriously.

Last year I ran 500 pounds on stock Koni's. They worked fine. But I wouldn't go over that.

NirVTEC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eee Pee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't worry about the brakes. With good tires you won't need them anyways. Seriously.

Last year I ran 500 pounds on stock Koni's. They worked fine. But I wouldn't go over that.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, if I end up with a non-Si model I will have to do it right away. I'm sure the Si brakes would be just fine with Hawk pads and some fluid.

Thanks for your direction guys! Now I'm on a HATCH-Hunt!(probably not as fun as a beaver hunt though)

clm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NirVTECn2o &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I think even the sohc with that stuff would rock the track. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I had a blast in my stock D16Y8 del Sol at Mid-Ohio and H-Stock.

NirVTEC

Is that what a hatch comes with?
D16?
sohc vtec?

sohcvtec1995

start CHEAP and FREE. Gut the car out

clm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NirVTECn2o &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is that what a hatch comes with?
D16?
sohc vtec?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends on which hatch.

The CX has a D15B8 w/o VTEC which has 70HP; the Si has a D16Z6 with VTEC (like the Y8) with 125 HP; not sure about the other hatches.

I almost had my del Sol topped out on the backstraight of Mid-Ohio, so it had plenty of power.

clm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohcvtec1995 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">start CHEAP and FREE. Gut the car out </TD></TR></TABLE>

That wouldn't work in STS, though. Still a good mod.

NirVTEC

Yah, the plan would be full interior until I swap the motor. Need it for STS.
Once the motor gets swapped, the interior will look much like a theft recovery, then its off to clean up in Street Mod where my Lude gets owned like a bitch!

Chillin94hatch

When searching for a hatchback, look for a CX. CX hatchbacks are lightest of all hatches. Most people prefer ground control and skunk 2 and koni suspension. That is if you are not looking to pay as much for a nice TEIN set up. A full GSR brake swap if possible, and is a very good investment. A b18 refers to an LS and is slower than the b16 however it has more torque. Good luck while searching...

NirVTEC

Whichever way I go, it will be a B series dohc vtec.

A TEIN setup would proably cost me as much as GC/KONI assuming I revalve the konis!

Thanks again guys!

huntarrr

if you're geared towards racing it, the Si model weighs a little bit more. Get a cx and swap in a b18c5

NirVTEC

C5 blah, I don't know much about B series but I can say thats a waste of money!
B18c1 will do the trick!