Wheel Studs [removing and replacing]
#1
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Wheel Studs [removing and replacing]
How would I go about removing a wheel stud and then Replacing it?
One of mine has a messed up tip and I bought a new one so I just need to know how to remove/replace it
Thanks in advance
One of mine has a messed up tip and I bought a new one so I just need to know how to remove/replace it
Thanks in advance
#2
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Re: Wheel Studs [removing and replacing] (eL)
bump from someone who also wants to know...ive heard that you needed to have it pressed and also that you dont. i also heard that its pretty cheap to have a shop do it
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If you have a bench vise it probably could work. YOu can remove them yourself with a hammer, but you don't need a press such as a hydraulic press. A basic shop press that uses those hydraulic jacks works aswell. Remove them yourself and take it to a shop. Since you're only replacing 1, it should cost a few bucks max.
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Re: (eL)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So the person who told me I could do it myself without a clamp or press was full of it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pretty much. All studs I've seen have to be pressed in. Think about it. It probably won't be as stable or sturdy if you can just push them in by hand and have them wobble around.
Pretty much. All studs I've seen have to be pressed in. Think about it. It probably won't be as stable or sturdy if you can just push them in by hand and have them wobble around.
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DIY Removal and Install
I just finished putting the ARP extended studs in my EG, and it really wasnt as difficult as everyone makes it out to be. I cut the old studs off as close to the hub as possible with a grinder, and hammered the old studs out. Then, using the same grinder, ground down the knuckle a little for clearance of getting the new studs in, and had to grind flats on the head of the studs, so they would clear the knuckle. all in all, it took be a total of 8 hours, but that was with many Red Stripe and Honda-Tech research breaks, and parts store runs for misc tools that I thought I had???....maybe about 3 hours total invested into it, and I must say, they came out damn nice. They'll be seeing track duty Wednesday night, so we'll see how they like that. Here's a few pictures...
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Re: (Dimi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have a bench vise it probably could work. YOu can remove them yourself with a hammer, but you don't need a press such as a hydraulic press. A basic shop press that uses those hydraulic jacks works aswell. Remove them yourself and take it to a shop. Since you're only replacing 1, it should cost a few bucks max.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did it for my friend and myself. First time I did it for my friend I used a rubber mallet and a bench vise. It took forever and I messed up three studs on her Nissan. New studs from the dealer cost $9 each, luckily I worked in a Honda dealership and got replacements for free. When I did it for my one broken stud I had no problems. 2 years later and I still have no problems, neither does my friend. Won't do it again if I don't have to. Too much of a hassle.
I did it for my friend and myself. First time I did it for my friend I used a rubber mallet and a bench vise. It took forever and I messed up three studs on her Nissan. New studs from the dealer cost $9 each, luckily I worked in a Honda dealership and got replacements for free. When I did it for my one broken stud I had no problems. 2 years later and I still have no problems, neither does my friend. Won't do it again if I don't have to. Too much of a hassle.
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Re: (JCracer723)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCracer723 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn i wouldnt rig it like the pics avobe ^^^^ </TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh, indeed. Looks darn good comment were for the studs, not the method. I rather remove the hub and do it.
Oh, indeed. Looks darn good comment were for the studs, not the method. I rather remove the hub and do it.
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Re: (JCracer723)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCracer723 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn i wouldnt rig it like the pics avobe ^^^^ </TD></TR></TABLE>
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Re: Wheel Studs [removing and replacing] (eL)
That's just unsafe.
I took the whip to a tire shop and the ******* changing my tire stripped the stud. He was about to leave it like that when I blew my top and got the owner to replace it for free, I should have known better. The guy who was supposed to fix my **** started attacking the head of the old stud with a grinder, i'm thinking: "ok, its already fucked up its cool if he gets it out like that" and then he went for my knuckle and I was like hell ****** no! I had them put my tire back on and left in disgust. for shitty mechanics.
As for that method, I'd be concerned about weakening the assembly. Some might say that the amount of material removed is negligible, but I say it was put there for a reason. Not to mention that its not just the knuckle you have to grind, you also have to remove part of the head of the new stud to get it to clear. Can you imagine what would happen if the studs failed? Why take a chance like that?
If you have access to a press, use it! if not, take it to a machine shop. they'd charge you maybe 20 bucks for the work.
Do that **** right!
I took the whip to a tire shop and the ******* changing my tire stripped the stud. He was about to leave it like that when I blew my top and got the owner to replace it for free, I should have known better. The guy who was supposed to fix my **** started attacking the head of the old stud with a grinder, i'm thinking: "ok, its already fucked up its cool if he gets it out like that" and then he went for my knuckle and I was like hell ****** no! I had them put my tire back on and left in disgust. for shitty mechanics.
As for that method, I'd be concerned about weakening the assembly. Some might say that the amount of material removed is negligible, but I say it was put there for a reason. Not to mention that its not just the knuckle you have to grind, you also have to remove part of the head of the new stud to get it to clear. Can you imagine what would happen if the studs failed? Why take a chance like that?
If you have access to a press, use it! if not, take it to a machine shop. they'd charge you maybe 20 bucks for the work.
Do that **** right!
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Re: Wheel Studs [removing and replacing] (HalfAnP)
why would you remove material off your hub.. its round for a reason..
just do it the right way and bring it to a shop. Don't half *** it
just do it the right way and bring it to a shop. Don't half *** it
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okay what is the big deal, i did my front studs with a hammer, in and out, with no grinding of the knuckle or stud. just bang them out, and bang them in. I used the front of the knuckle, and it seemed as if they werent going to go, but just as you would think that they were at too much of an angle to pop straight, they cleared the knuckle and went in perfectly.
i was using oen studs though.
good luck.
key = FRONT of the knuckle.
i was using oen studs though.
good luck.
key = FRONT of the knuckle.
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Re: (EGmikeH22)
removing wheel studs isn't hard to do yourself. Remove the Pads/Caliper and rotor, whack the old studs with a big hammer and they pop right out the back. To install new studs, pop em in from the rear and put a lug nut on the new stud and hit it with the impact while looking at the back of the stud, when the base is touching the back of the hub, it's good to go!
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Re: (OnePointFive)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OnePointFive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">removing wheel studs isn't hard to do yourself. Remove the Pads/Caliper and rotor, whack the old studs with a big hammer and they pop right out the back. To install new studs, pop em in from the rear and put a lug nut on the new stud and hit it with the impact while looking at the back of the stud, when the base is touching the back of the hub, it's good to go! </TD></TR></TABLE>
that's the method I saw it done but then again IMO it can be causing such a mess if you don't know what you're doing. There's a lot of other ways of changing the studs but if you're not a certified techinician and you DON'T HAVE A CLUE what you're doing dont bang away on those studs, please don't experiment on your ride and let the pros at the shop work on it
that's the method I saw it done but then again IMO it can be causing such a mess if you don't know what you're doing. There's a lot of other ways of changing the studs but if you're not a certified techinician and you DON'T HAVE A CLUE what you're doing dont bang away on those studs, please don't experiment on your ride and let the pros at the shop work on it
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.............
I dont know about all you people "bashing" my method of replacing my studs, but I think it worked out pretty damn well, and as far as the amount of material ground off of the knuckle, it's so insignificant, I didn't think twice about it. I dont know how everyone else thinks, but I've heard a shitload of horror stories about mechanics and peoples' cars, not to mention I've expierenced it first hand myself. I only trust one mechanic for my car, and that's me. I may not be ASE certified, but the right tools and a haynes/chilton manual, and anyone can accomplish their own work if they have the time and patience. As far as my "bashing" comment, I would expect nothing less from Honda-Tech. For everyone out there who is a real enthusiast and thinks along the same lines as I do, keep it up. For eveyone else hating and stating "take it to a mechanic, dont waste your time", I listen to you about as much as I listen to all these little Ricer ******** running around in 88 Civic Sedans turned tie fighters. Peace.
#24
Re: ............. (Ricky1213)
You can remove the hub with slide hammer. You can rent one and the attachment you need at autozone for like $35, which they will refund you when you return the tools.