Pooponurhead

Hey guys. So I was having an oil leak somewhere behind the distributor (LS Head). So I bought new o-rings for it. So I take it off and replace the o-rings and i put it back together. Now the car won't start. It'll turn over but it won't fire. What did I do wrong? As of right now I don't have a ride. Can anyone help me ASAP? My number is 301 643 9042

97civicdx

Did you reinstall the dizz in the same position when u took it off, aka marking the housing etc

Pooponurhead

No, but I reinstalled it using the marks left from the washers on the housing bolts. I should've marked it huh? Chit. So...where do I turn from here? I'm pretty much out of sunlight.

Ron454321

Get a timing light, they aren't very expensive. Usually when you remove your dizzy you should make a line to match it up when you reinstall. It's all a learning process, good luck.

VtecSyndrome

it takes effort but I bet you bolted it back up 180 degrees out, this will duplicate you symptoms. Try reinstalling with the shaft turned 180, it only goes in smooth one way so if you had to force it on some the first time I bet that's what you did.

billyinse

i did this once ...just take it back off and turn it 180 and it should fire right up.

4stagecandy

^what^

habib

Correct me if im wrong but honda distributors key/teeth are off centered to prevent installing the distributor 180 out

Pooponurhead

Well, myself, with help from my neighbor who is a metro bus mechanic, got the car running. But for some reason its not idling smoothly. Any idea what the problem could be now? We tried to adjust the idle by moving the dizzy around to various positions while it was running. But there isn't much room for adjustment.

He thinks it's the fuel filter, but why would the fuel filter all of a sudden take a crap after having dizzy problems?

VtecSyndrome

it doesn't "prevent" it from going on it just makes it not sit right if installed wrong and it takes a little force to do it, which is the first clue that it's on wrong in the first place

it's NOT the fuel filter and based on that suggestion you should not let him work on your car, he'll end up diagnosing it by throwing parts at it like it's an american car and wasting your time and money. You need to check all the wires and make sure you have the 1-3-4-2 firing order correct and that they are all making complete contact w/ dizzy and spark plugs, you can pull the plug wires off the spark plugs by a 1/2-1 inch on one cyl at a time while the engine is running (using pliers or gloves)and if you have any wire issues you'll know it quick by the sound the motor and firing wires will make.

Pooponurhead

Well, my car has fuel issues. I installed new Denso Iridium plugs and the next day, they were coated with thick black soot. Plus it smokes in VTEC and runs WAAAY rich. So...I don't totally rule out fuel issues.

But I get what you're saying. I'm gonna check it out tomorrow. Too bad I have to drive it. Gay

tjdmcoupe

Ls usually run rich at high rpm, Did you jump the CEL connector while you set the ignition timing

Pooponurhead

No I did not. Do I need to? It didn't seem to respond when it was idling and I was moving the dizzy back and forth. Hmm...

tjdmcoupe

what year is your car

Pooponurhead

95 coupe with a 98 GSR block, 00 LS Head, and 99 S4C trans. haha Frankenstein, so to speak

tjdmcoupe

You should jump the CEL connector them set ignition timing, does make a difference. i did know until the CHP sent me to BAR for having modded engine, then i had a friend set my timing which he worked at the BAR,

habib

Your oil leak is because you have a non vtec head on a vtec block, vtec blocks have an oil port so oil can get up to the head for the vtec solenoid, using a non vtec head on a vtec block that port is exposed and thats why you are leaking oil, get rid of that ls head and get yourself a vtec head

Pooponurhead

I have a VTEC head...changing the o-ring stopped the oil leak. This thread is about the idle problem dude. The oil leak is no biggie. Thanks though.

habib

You said you have a gsr block and a ls head, ls heads are non vtec. How do you know you fixed the oil problem when you havent gotten the car to run correctly since removing the distributor

Pooponurhead

Sorry, LS block, Gsr head...B18B1/B18C1. I'm an idiot.

habib

Lol that sounds better, have you checked your firing order like VtecSyndrome mentioned

4dohs4mohoes

So... It was running fine and now it's not. Hmmmm It shouldnt be too difficult to figure out what you did wrong.

Check inside the distributor cap for oil on the rotor or points. Oil can leak into the cap also.

VtecSyndrome

It's supposed to smoke some in higher rpm Vtec and run waaay rich to prevent any leaning out issues when in high rpms. you may be chasing issues when you may just need a good tune depending on how modified your motor is from stock (sounds enough to merit a tune imo). It always sucks trying to diagnos over the computer instead of in person. Honda fuel filters are notorious for lasting pretty much forever as long as it's being driven on a regular basis. the only real probs I've ever seen with honda fuel filters or pumps comes from leaving a car sitting for years and then trying to run it on OLD *** gas that ends up clogging up the system, other than that you can pretty much bank on your fuel system being ok or at least make sure it's the very last thing you consider since you'll likely find the problem else where (dyno tune for example?)

dpetro1

you need to make sure the dizzy is installed into the cam correctly. then use a timing light to set the proper ignition timing.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/timing/timing.php

Pooponurhead

Well...is it possible that the timing belt jumped when I was trying to start it. I looked at the cam gears...and the timing marks aren't totally lining up. Looks like they could be off one tooth. Also, on the way home, under about half throttle, i started hearing a clicking sound. This is great...as soon as the car "realized" that I was planning on selling it, it does this.